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AFTERMARKET FOG LIGHTS


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hope this aintt a repost. ...........Ive had foglights on my truck almost 8 months now & havent even wired them up yet.

Ive been poking around reading all kinds of jeep forums & every one of them always brings up running wires to the Relay thats under the hood and talking about pin # 5 and pin#38 etc etc

CoNfUsIng stuff to me. Since i have an INLINE 25amp fuse,can't i just wire them up to the factory swicth?? maybe the wires go to a relay already for all I know. I have 3 wires coming FROM the switch & do know the Green wire is Hot with the key on. can't i just take my Hot white foglight wire & run it TO that green Hot wire on the swicth??

 

 

Relly hope someone can simplify this for me. The bolts on my new lights are starting to rust & i havent even used them yet.

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Easiest way to wire up a relay: http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/e ... glites.htm

 

Relay is a LOT safer and more practical than having 25 amps of power coming straight to your factory switch.

 

 

Well its just a 25amp inline fuse. I'm assuming only 12 volts would be going to the switch. I don't know for sure,but it may already go to a relay somewhere cuz Id be tieing into the factory Foglight switch wire thats already there.

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Easiest way to wire up a relay: http://www.classictruckshop.com/clubs/e ... glites.htm

 

Relay is a LOT safer and more practical than having 25 amps of power coming straight to your factory switch.

 

 

Well its just a 25amp inline fuse. I'm assuming only 12 volts would be going to the switch. I don't know for sure,but it may already go to a relay somewhere cuz Id be tieing into the factory Foglight switch wire thats already there.

 

 

 

ALSO..........What if I DO find a foglight relay (wherever it might be hiding) .....How do I run a wire to it?? Just strip the lead wire & wrap it around the relay metal prong?

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Something a lot of folks overlook when they're having electrical problems is battery height. In your case the fog lights are lower than the battery so the electrons (Amperage) will be going faster than normal. Thus generating more energy. When the electrons flow uphill say to overhead cab lights then they are bucking gravity and go slower, thus less energy to the lamps. Since the majority of appliances, headlights, tail lights, radio, etc, are on the same plane as the battery there is no noticeable problem. :hmm:

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Something a lot of folks overlook when they're having electrical problems is battery height. In your case the fog lights are lower than the battery so the electrons (Amperage) will be going faster than normal. Thus generating more energy. When the electrons flow uphill say to overhead cab lights then they are bucking gravity and go slower, thus less energy to the lamps. Since the majority of appliances, headlights, tail lights, radio, etc, are on the same plane as the battery there is no noticeable problem. :hmm:

Was this post before or after you hit your head. :rotf:

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Send RockMJ a pm and ask about how he wired up fog lamps using a factory switch and wiring.

 

You should never wire electronic accessories straight to the battery, even with a fuse. Volts are not the same as amps. Relays can be a bit confusing at first. Study how they work and you will be doing safe wiring in no time.

 

Jim... :jump:

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You can pick up a relay at any auto store for $5.

I have my driving lights/fog lights wired from the parking/brights circuit.

 

 

The relay will have 5 pins, power in, power out, ground in/ground out, trigger. Attach the relay to your fender wall near the battery. Power and ground in direct from the battery. Power and ground out direct to lights, 14ga. Trigger from light circuit or ignition circuit, or direct power circuit from dash switch or preexisting fog/driving lamp circuit.

 

This is not complicated at all, fast, easy, safe, and will supply sufficient amps to power your lamps.

 

My electric fan circuit is run the same way.

 

Use simple protected female spade connectors and make up your own harness.

 

You can also run your trigger through a dash switch so the you can manually disrupt the trigger at anytime.

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Something a lot of folks overlook when they're having electrical problems is battery height. In your case the fog lights are lower than the battery so the electrons (Amperage) will be going faster than normal. Thus generating more energy. When the electrons flow uphill say to overhead cab lights then they are bucking gravity and go slower, thus less energy to the lamps. Since the majority of appliances, headlights, tail lights, radio, etc, are on the same plane as the battery there is no noticeable problem. :hmm:

Whatever you're drinking, I'll try one.

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Something a lot of folks overlook when they're having electrical problems is battery height. In your case the fog lights are lower than the battery so the electrons (Amperage) will be going faster than normal. Thus generating more energy. When the electrons flow uphill say to overhead cab lights then they are bucking gravity and go slower, thus less energy to the lamps. Since the majority of appliances, headlights, tail lights, radio, etc, are on the same plane as the battery there is no noticeable problem. :hmm:

Whatever you're drinking, I'll try one.

 

:clapping: :rotfl2:

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Seriously, always run fog (and/or driving or off-road) lights through a relay as well as a fuse.

 

On my '88 MJ that once had factory fogs (but not when I got it), the relay is on the left radiator support, right next to the driver's side radiator tank.

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