CGross

Why do people have such a problem breaking out the multimeter and a AA battery to figure out the wires?

Any easier way than pulling out the seat and pulling up all the carpet? I can't really pull out the carpet since I got a big rusthole I'm trying to get fixed and the carpet is the only part keeping my foot from falling out.

What do I need to do behind the dash to get the fuel gauge working though? If it's a pegging issue to the full, it's usually ground, right? Is there some ground stuff to do behind the dash?

Anyone else have insite exactly where this ground is or where to trace it? I think it's behind the drivers side tail light, but I cleaned it up and nothing happened. Does it ground directly onto the sender unit or does it ground out on the tank? Resources I'm finding are all different.

Did a lil' googling, found out it's supposed to be behind the drivers side tailight. I wish my Haynes was more specific on this.

Might be worth a shot. Is the ground wire for the pump back there, as I figure that might be the issue? Or is it re-located? I know on the YJ it grounds on the parking brake assembly (WTF, right?).

Nearly constantly my fuel gauge reads full. When off, it's just below full. When I turn on, it goes a bit above. I can't seem to get the dash out cause of the speedo cable and I can't get anything back there to unhook it. Is there anything not behind the dash that'd cause this? Maybe it's a ground? I'm not familiar with MJ's and their electrical gremlins and places, mostly just YJs.

So you got the actual coaxial wire running under the shifter boot, down past the transmission and back to the bed for the antenna? That's pretty sweet sounding. How is the antenna mounted on the bed?

Anyone have a CB wired up in their truck? If so, how do you have it mounted and have the CB wire routed to the back? I'd prefer a way with as little drilling and the cleanest way to run it if I have to drill.

Pretty sure you can stick a http://www.corbeau.com bench in there.

Yeah, cause it's not like originally foreign manufactures are making more things in the US sold for the US than American companies outsourcing. Dodge Charger, engines in Mexico which are shipped to Canada where everything is put together then sold to the US, globalization!

Check your fuel pressure.

Well certainly no ones had 20 years experience with the higher performance ones. Might as well go with the tried and true OEM one that you know will work for about 20 years.

Correct, and I'm sure the insurance company would push to get it off the road that much more if you intend to hand it down to your son. The truck would be 34 years old by then and considering the rate cars are evolving, it's a pollution machine in comparison to cars now, muchless another 14 years. Plus, the safety factor.

For some reason, mine's on the passenger side. :eek: Weird as balls, but whatever. I noticed while down there, there's a leak brewing where the transmission and engine meet. So any idea would could be leaking out my fluid there?

Okay so YJ is 3/8ths fitting, so MJ is the same, correct?

I'd think the 2nd time it happened, I'd just swap the rear axle. Be cheaper and easier, just sayin'. That's pretty hurrdurr to do that 4 times.

From what I can see, it's basically a big container for a lot of brake fluid at once? I don't really need to worry about that, especially for $35+ I'm fine, and I'd have to special order it. Do we know what size fittings the front lines are though? I'm not seeing any specific sizes anywhere and Advance is giving me several to choose from.

What size are the soft brake lines on the front? Mine are starting to crack, so I need to get those replaced ASAP. Also, how do I go about flushing the entire brake system of old fluid? Mine's more brown and nasty than anything, so I'd like to get fresh fluid in there. I'm thinking if I'm doing the front brake lines, if I just take the fluid cover off and unhook the hoses, that'll just flow right out, right?

Bumping for anyone that has a more specific bleeder location

Best dual battery wiring ways I've ever seen are these ones: http://www.junkyardgenius.com/charging/dual01.html

Poked around, didn't see too much in the ways of where it was. Anyone else got pictures or anything? Not able to find much on the googles and Haynes just shows what the screw looks like.

If it's an AW4, it doesn't need clutch fluid!!? Automatic. If you mean ATF (Dex) there is a DRAIN plug, but no "bleeder". Fluid is added thru the tranny dipstick If you mean clutch fluid (brake fluid) for an AX4/5 with a clutch, the bleeder comes out of the bell housing, driver side. Sorry no pic. Climb under, with a flashlight in the dark, take a look, it's not cold jacket here. Oh darp yeah, AX4. I just see AW4 thrown around so much I got stuck thinking about that. And yeah, I imagine it not being cold in Cali, but it's a lil' chilly in rainy Indiana.

I have the 2.5 with the AW4. Realized today, I have 0 clutch fluid. How do I go about bleeding this in the dark and cold? Mostly, just where is the bleeder screw on this thing? Picture would be best, but I just needa get this going tonight. Thanks

$70 on TeamCherokee. D: Isn't it just some standard trim I could buy cheaper and cut down or what? How hard is removing/installing the new trim anyway?