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Posted

First it vibrated at 70mph, then went away at 65mph then started again after a while, then 60mph then 45mph. So U-Joint right ? ! ? ! ?

Ok trans end joint seems tight no play, rear had some slop 1/4"- 3/8" of it :wrench: Then noticed the it wasn't slack in the joint but one joint cap was sliding back n forth in yoke :fs1:

 

:wrench: Tried snugging down the bolts, To no avail it still moves around :fs1: So where do i go from here replace joint ? strap ? :hmm: yoke ? :(

 

Mike

Posted

Tires are balenced treads all look straight and true, My concern it the U-Joint moving in the yoke ? :???: ?

I was wondering, should i replace the U-Joint currently i have the strap removed and it dosen't appear to be damaged :bowdown:

 

Should I reinstall the strap and keep running it ? or should remove the other strap and replace the joint ?

Mike

Posted

Is the little nub that holds the cap from coming out still there? If not, then you need to replace the yoke. If there is no nub don't drive it, your driveshaft will come off.

Quick fix that might get you home is put a new joint in then tack weld the cap to the yoke.

Posted

If the nub is still there, replace the joint as well as the straps and strap bolts.

 

140 miles from home, better safe than sorry.

Posted

The only time I've ever seen the bearing cap move after tightening the bolts was once when the strap broke. Since you've had it off and it ain't broke the only logical thing I can think of is the bolts stretched. Very unlikely. Only thing I can suggest, get some metal, beer-pop can. cut off a couple strips to use as a shim. Wrap them around the yoke and see if you can get it tight enough to get home. If you got 4wd try removing the front drive shaft and swapping UJoints. Good luck. Jim

Posted

Yup both little tab deal's are intacted, Stop and got a pair of U-Joints they appear to be a touch bigger then the joint in the truck, I wonder if the current Joint is the wrong/cheapo one ? :???: ?

 

They have 3 different stud/Strap Kits may just get some for the peace of mind of it :thumbsup:

 

:wrench: The new Joint "Precision" #369 Fits the tie downs better jamminz.gif . . . :bowdown: Now lets see if remember how to change them its been a long while :hmm:

 

I'll report back with progress :yes: . . . :ack:

Mike

Posted
The new Joint "Precision" #369Mike

 

The Precision 369 is the correct 1310-series u-joint for your rig. Unless it's been modified, which I doubt. :cheers:

Posted

Nope its the same Shortbed, 2WD, AMC-150 I4 / AX-4 4spd / D35x3.73 truck that left the factory 23/24yrs and 201K-miles ago . . . tho its wearing a set of 235/75R15's ;)

 

Tho i think a P-O might have swapped Metric/Big-Ton springs under it cause it holds a load jamminz.gif

Smart phones and long hot walks, Shoulda took them joint straps with me :fs1: Almost back :wall: Glad they stay open late :bowdown:

 

Mike

Posted

Yep shouldn't to bad almost to the parts store, Get 2 strap n bolt kits and then walk on back and put it back together :wrench:

 

Good lesson in what to carry with ya :cheers:

Mike

Posted

U-Joint strap kit Precision #437-10, Sweet the straps n joints are of the same brand ! ! !

The straps fit the Joint perfectly, Alrighty back to the truck ;)

 

 

:wrench: Fix it time :wrench:

Mike

Posted

No NOT in the middle of nowhere, Just 140-Miles from home O'Reilly's is a bit of walk but we n boss lady made it twice but got all the parts jamminz.gif

 

I'll keep ya posted :thumbsup:

Mike

Posted

New Parts:

2x Precision #369;

1x Precision strap kit #437-10;

 

:wrench: Onto the repair :wrench:

 

 

 

 

:wall: I can't get the other bolts out, My 5/16" is super short, I fought it til the storm blew in :fs1:

Mike

Posted

Move [push] the truck forward or back about a foot or so, so the bolts on top that are being difficult are on the 'bottom' so you can get to them easier.

Posted

:wrench: They are on the bottom, already did the rotate the drive shaft deal :wrench: My wrench is about the size of my pinky :fs1:

I got a few 5/16" & 8MM sockets but can't get none of them to fit well they fit but NOT enough to fit the ratchet on the socket, I must say this is the most retarded looking drive shaft i've seen :fs1:

 

Mike

Posted

Describe the vibe? I have something like that on mine, and I think I need to do the same and/or wheel bearings.

 

edit: when you're safe at home of course :eek:

Posted

Trucks smootj up to a certain speed, When it started vibrating the faster ya went the worse it gets . . . Until your Mirrors shake so much you can hardly see out of them, If you can get it up to the vibrating speed then put it in neutral it'll get violently worse ! ! !

 

If that's what you got I'd do some U-joints or you'll be like me layin in gravel far from home ;)

Mike

Posted

The tough bolts:

 

 

The Wrenches i'm working with:

 

:wall: Yea it loads of fun :fs1:

Mike

Posted

Mine's just kind of a rough ride noise, not a super noticeable vibe.. except at 45. That's pretty noticeable.

 

What were the O'Reilly's part numbers for the repair?

 

Just a pair of u joints and stud kits?

Posted
Mine's just kind of a rough ride noise, not a super noticeable vibe.. except at 45. That's pretty noticeable.

 

What were the O'Reilly's part numbers for the repair?

 

Just a pair of u joints and stud kits?

 

Sounds like your just starting out to a u-Joint failure, I'd repair it sooner rather then later :thumbsup:

 

Repair parts:

 

O'Reilly's also my suggestion is get the longest 5/16" wrench you can find, They stock them in store I'll be getting one when they open up tomorrow morning ;)

 

hope i've been of some help :???:

Mike

Posted

If you can fit the closed end of the wrench on the bolt, you can hook the closed end of the other one onto it's jaws to extend the handle.

 

increase-leverage-wrench-800x800.jpg

Posted
If you can fit the closed end of the wrench on the bolt, you can hook the closed end of the other one onto it's jaws to extend the handle.

:agree: I have done exactly this many times on the underside of my Jeeps trying to break bolts loose.

Posted

Next time you're into the rear diff, junk the stock pinion yoke and replace it with a Dana Spicer ubolt pinion yoke, P/N D/S2-4-8091x. About $35, fits D35s and D44s, and uses the same 1310 series ujoints. Much beefier and it's so much easier to remove the ubolts compared to the puny OEM straps.

 

1215810152_1310SeriesU-BoltSetfor1953-1979Corvette27splineTransm.jpg

 

1282793797_Dana44PinionYoke1310series26spline_D44-1310-3.jpg

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