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Posted

I want to upgrade the gears in my D35 and D30 to 4.10... what would be a good brand to use? and what would be needed, what should be done while the diff. is dismantled?

 

thanks

Posted

You will need larger tires or s different speedometer gear in the transmission output for the speedometer to read correctly.

 

But PLEASE don't waste your money having a D35 regeared. It will cost you between $500 and $1000 for an axle that's barely worth it's weight in scrap. Instead find a Cherokee with a 4 cylinder, 5 speed stick shift with a rear axle OTHER than a D35, buy that axle, cut off the spring perches and shock mounts and have new perches welded on. This should cost a total of less than $200 and you get a better axle at the same time.

Posted

Swap them, if you’re just doing a little playing in the mud ‘maybe?’

Serious wheeling don't waste your time and money…

Totally :agree: B…

Posted

As both Pete and a buddy of mine with a TJ experienced, Dana 35s can fail quite well just cruising along on the highway. Don't need to wheel your truck for it to happen.

Posted

explorer 8.8s are reasonably common with 4.10 gears. :thumbsup: and a cherokee 8.25 would be good too. I wouldn't use a Dana 35, but I can understand if it has the right gears and is dirt cheap. just be kind to it and it might last a while.

 

try car-part.com for searching junkyards. if you go for an 8.8, you have to search for both v6 and v8 models. they are identical inside, but have different brackets (which you'll be cutting off anyways) for the 2 models of explorer.

Posted

The 8.8 is a bit narrower. They will kinda work on a Cherokee, but on a Comanche wheel spacers are a must as the tires will hit the inside of the wheel well without them. You will also need some way to go from the 1310 series u joint on the driveshaft to the flange on the 8.8. Either an adapter u joint to go the to stock Ford one on the 8.8, or a flange for a 1310 series joint.

Posted
I want to upgrade the gears in my D35 and D30 to 4.10... what would be a good brand to use? and what would be needed, what should be done while the diff. is dismantled? thanks

 

Check your PM inbox.

Posted

I'm wondering but i think i already know the answer. will 4.10s but good enough for 33s or would it be like my 31s on 3.55s now?

Posted

so if I end up doing a axle swap to get the 4.10 gears what axles have Disc brakes, that would be the bolt on or, near bolt on? I would like a stronger axle because, I use my truck as a truck, not just eye candy....

 

Right now I am sorta tight on cash because I really need to get Blue running again, mostly I am in "research mode" but if something comes up for a good price I may get it.

Posted

If your wanting discs I would go for a later model 8.8 from an explorer, I think 97 to early 2000's. 31 spline axles and factory discs

Posted

Yea 8.8s are good axles. i pulled one for my buddy and it had disc brakes, 4.10s and a limited slip. Only gave a little over 100 bucks for it at pull-a-part. and it holds strong with 33s at uwharrie

Posted

so will i need to relocate the spring perches on the 97+ 8.8s? and what adapter would i need for the drive shaft? and would i need wheel spacers?

 

and as for the front D30 what should i do with it?

Posted

95-01 8.8s are all the same. even v6 and v8 ones are the same inside, just with different brackets on the outside.

 

I would plan on wheel spacers, not necessarily because the 8.8 is a hair more narrow than a Dana 35 (5/8"), but because the bed of an MJ is wider than the front of a comanche and it will pull the tires out from under the rear fenders and make it look normal. do not go cheap on wheel spacers. get only the best. :thumbsup:

 

you can also try to find a cherokee 8.25 rear axle with 4.10s and then convert it to disks using various methods.

 

 

find a Dana 30 with 4.10 gears. :thumbsup:

 

car-part.com can help with scouring junkyards

Posted

I think the point on the V6/V8 8.8 was that it doesn't matter which engine it had, because the only difference was the mounting brackets that you will remove anyway.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
You will need larger tires or s different speedometer gear in the transmission output for the speedometer to read correctly.

 

Why is this? The radius of the tires didn't change if you only swapped gears.

Posted
Why is this? The radius of the tires didn't change if you only swapped gears.

 

The speedometer is caliberated by the rotation of the drive shaft (speedometer cable comes out of the side of the transmission). Change the size of the tires or the diff gearing and the vehicle moves different distances on the rotation of the drive shaft.

Posted
Why is this? The radius of the tires didn't change if you only swapped gears.

 

The speedometer is caliberated by the rotation of the drive shaft (speedometer cable comes out of the side of the transmission). Change the size of the tires or the diff gearing and the vehicle moves different distances on the rotation of the drive shaft.

 

Hmm, interesting, thanks. I didn't realize that it was reading the DS.

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