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Last weekend the MJ started running very rough and was acting like it was misfiring several cylinders.  I was poking around the distributor while the engine was running and got a zap.  I decided to replace the spark plugs and the plug wires at the same time.  when i was removing the old plug wires 2 of the wires came apart at the metal crimp connector and the wire from the coil to the distro was cracked.  After everything was installed it now runs smoothly again!

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What's your secret to that? I can't even get my girlfriend to keep me company in the garage let alone actually help me lol.

 

Get a new one.

 

:shake:  :D

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What's your secret to that? I can't even get my girlfriend to keep me company in the garage let alone actually help me lol.

 

All i did was ask her if she would help and she said sure!  :banana:  I am a very lucky guy lol

 

 

What's your secret to that? I can't even get my girlfriend to keep me company in the garage let alone actually help me lol.

 

Get a new one.

 

 

:rotfl2:

 

Well I did convince her to restore a 63 GMC pickup with me so I guess I can't complain. Hey blue do you have an open or closed cooling system.

 

Currently its Closed with a leaking pressure bottle, the radiator is the first step to converting it to open.  I need to find a good overflow bottle first.  

 

My plans are to replace the radiator, gather parts, then remove the heater flow valve and add the open system coolant bottle.  While the radiator is off I may convert to dual electric fans.

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DIY convert from closed to open cooling.

This Write up is how I converted from closed to open cooling. You may choose other parts to achieve the same end result.

I am converting because I am tired of messing with the pressure bottle, to remove the heater flow valve, and replace old hoses.


Parts:

  • Radiator with filler neck $82.57 *

          Part number: CU1193

  • Radiator cap $24.99 * (I bought a fancy cap with built in thermometer.)

          Part number: 2471S

  • 2 Gallons antifreeze coolant $14.99 ea ($24.98 for 2) ***

          Item number: 7020022

  • 10' 5/16 hose $19.90 ***

          $1.99 per foot
          Item number: 5194083

  • 4' 3/4 heater hose $5.56 ***

          $1.39 per foot
          item number: 5192978

  • 4' 5/8 heater hose $5.56 ***

          $1.39 per foot
          Item number: 5192951

  • Two 3/4 to 5/8 hose adaptors $2.99 ea ($5.98 for 2)***

          Part number: 80424

 

  • A junkyard radiator bottle (I think mine was from a ZJ or WJ dad snagged it for me)

Total conversion cost: $169.54 + S&H and tax
 

Optional Parts:

  • Later model thermostat housing with temperature switch
  • new water pump
  • Dual Fan Controller
  • Second Electric fan for dual conversion
  • Wire
  • Relay or Fan Controller
  • Power Switch
  • MJ or XJ 2.5L Radiator Bottle $16.99 **

          Part number: 52003213

  • MJ or XJ Bottle Cap $7.97 **

          Part number: J3223202

 

Ordered from:
Amazon.com *
Morris4x4.com **
Advanced Auto Parts ***

 

 

Tools:

  • Gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • Knife or box cutter
  • Phillips and flat head screwdrivers
  • Bucket
  • T-25
  • T-30
  • 8mm Socket and or wrench
  • 10mm Socket and or wrench

Getting Started

 

15299415736_615fc7027b_o.jpg

 

Start by draining out the old radiator fluid, removing the upper and lower radiator hoses, fan temperature switch, and if you have an auto transmission the transmission cooler lines from the radiator.  Use an 8mm socket or wrench to remove the electric fan and clutch fan shroud. 

 

The radiator support is held on by several bolts 10mm and T-25 or T-30 (sorry mine where all stripped before I started not exactly sure the actual size).  The bolts removed connect the support to the frame and front clip, then they are all out remove the radiator support.

 

15135900917_8f9216a186_o.jpg

 

The radiator should come out without much fuss.

 

15299394456_98c352ac83_o.jpg

 

With the radiator out of the way now would be the perfect time to convert to Dual electric fans and replace the water pump.  Sadly I was running out of time due to fighting with stripped bolts so i was not able to do ether....

 

Depending on the radiator you get you may not need to change the thermostat housing.  My thermostat housing is from a later model XJ, and can use a temperature switch. However the radiator I purchased has the hole for the fan temperature switch.

 

Remove the 3/4 hose and the 5/8 hose from the thermostat housing and the water pump.

 

15299402386_3600dd95af_o.jpg

 

Remove the old coolant pressure bottle and the hoses going to the heater core.  Cutting the hose may be needed.

 

15135676460_d55faa4197_o.jpg

 

The new hoses will need to be adapted from 3/4 to 5/8, the reason for this is the thermostat housing outlet is 3/4 connecting to the heater core that is 5/8, and the heater core outlet is 3/4 connecting to the water pump inlet that is 5/8.   After all the old hoses are removed take your new 3/4 and 5/8 hose and route it however you like, then measure where to cut the hose in half.  Use the 3/4 to 5/8 adapters as needed.  

 

Again the hose routing is:

  • 3/4 from thermostat housing
  • 3/4 to 5/8 adapter
  • 5/8 to heater core inlet
  • 3/4 from heater core outlet
  • 3/4 to 5/8 adapter
  • 5/8 to water pump

15135719407_c13b8f0990_o.jpg

 

The new coolant bottle is the next challenge.  I ordered a 2.5L MJ/XJ coolant bottle that should fit on the drivers side fender, I will likely need to go back to a cone air filter to make room for it. Till I decide for sure what bottle I am sticking with I used one from a Junk yard Jeep and slightly modified it to work.  I had to remove the old pressure bottle "shelf" to make room. I used a self tapping screw to attach the radiator bottle to the back of the engine bay where the old bottle was located.  I routed the 5/16 hose around the back of the bottle and used the heater hoses as a bridge, ending where the radiator filler neck will be.

 

15135547290_7ec4b87ce4_o.jpg

 

Install the new radiator and reconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses.  Reattach the radiator support.  Connect the Coolant bottle hose to the filler neck.  For good measure I zip tied all the new hoses in place.

 

Fill the radiator system with 12 quarts (3 Gallons) of coolant. Must be a 50/50 mix, you can use pre-mix or concentrate with distilled water. you may not be able to fit all 12 quarts as there will likely be some coolant still in the engine. Bleed the air out of the system, Renix engines have a coolant temperature sensor on the back of the head accessible from the engine compartment.

 

Clean up and all done

 

Prior to this conversion My Jeep would boil over in 20 minuets and interstate travel was a no go.  Now the temperature has yet to pass the 210 mark while traveling 75 mph on the interstate.  A side note, my A/C seems to be blowing cooler as well now....

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

Fixed my winch..... Apparently I managed to overlook the Positive battery terminal when i cleaned the negative battery terminal and all the winch connections.....

 

Katelyn cleaned up my console for me while it was out.  I installed the proper foot vent for my console, swapped out the NP231 shift gate for the NP242 gate, and added a Prime 4x4 console switch plate.

 

17348687729_09b4e73eca_z.jpg

 

16912406744_4419fdcc00_z.jpg

 

 

While I was at it i swapped out the old switched for new ones with labels, and now these are wired up to the ignition.  No more dead batteries!

17534797641_9f39d9a052_z.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Nice clean look with the switches. You have one nice looking truck.

Thanks! That's always a boost of confidence!

 

I'll be buying another prime 4x4 switch panel, this one covers the coin holder on the console and will add 3 switches.

 

Unfortunately I'll be moving the front locker and e-fan switches down to the switch panel under the ash tray and adding a winch power switch and a momentary rocker switch for in / out winch control to the switch panel to the right of the steering wheel. Not hard just a PITA getting those switches out...

 

The layout under the ashtray so far will be: panel master power / e-fan / front e-locker / rear e-locker / aux power. The new 3 switch panel will add: left side work lights / front aux lights / right work lights.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Installed the new switch panel and re arranged the switches.

 

18785927971_7deed228e3_c.jpg

Nice and neat setup

 

18597236349_c0b44fde2a_c.jpg

Switches are self explanatory

  • E-Fan override
  • Power for:
    • Front Locker
    • Rear Locker (future investment)
    • 12v Accessories (power inverter, air compressor, etc)

 

 

18596073058_fe32dae1b8_c.jpg

  • Left Side Work Light
  • Front Aux / Work Light
  • Right Side Work Light

 

18757068626_fd30d7e8d1_c.jpg

And winch controls

 

Right now nothing but the front locker is hooked up.  Need to purchase more female connectors, wire, fuse box, and relays.

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  • 3 months later...

I replaced the alternator, alt-battery wiring, battery, and pulley belt. And it turns out my dash volt meter does in fact work, and the alt was bad along with the battery. Now nothing dips out while having the turn signals on while running AC, and all the lights!

Food for thought, if the alternator is not charging check the wire going from the alt to the power distribution bolt. It uses a fusible wire for circuit protection. Mine tested good.

All my battery, grounds and alternator where upgraded to 4 ga wiring. Additional engine compartment grounds where added as per cruiser's tips, dash ground upgrade is next on the list.

 

22896270383_7b3f7680a2_o.jpg

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

I replaced the alternator, alt-battery wiring, battery, and pulley belt. And it turns out my dash volt meter does in fact work, and the alt was bad along with the battery. Now nothing dips out while having the turn signals on while running AC, and all the lights!

 

Food for thought, if the alternator is not charging check the wire going from the alt to the power distribution bolt. It uses a fusible wire for circuit protection. Mine tested good.

 

All my battery, grounds and alternator where upgraded to 4 ga wiring. Additional engine compartment grounds where added as per cruiser's tips, dash ground upgrade is next on the list.

 

22896270383_7b3f7680a2_o.jpg

you forgot to add the part where i helped you and bought you some parts  :thumbsup:  :wrench:

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  • 4 weeks later...

 

I replaced the alternator, alt-battery wiring, battery, and pulley belt. And it turns out my dash volt meter does in fact work, and the alt was bad along with the battery. Now nothing dips out while having the turn signals on while running AC, and all the lights!

 

Food for thought, if the alternator is not charging check the wire going from the alt to the power distribution bolt. It uses a fusible wire for circuit protection. Mine tested good.

 

All my battery, grounds and alternator where upgraded to 4 ga wiring. Additional engine compartment grounds where added as per cruiser's tips, dash ground upgrade is next on the list.

 

 

you forgot to add the part where i helped you and bought you some parts  :thumbsup:  :wrench:

 

 

I sent you to the parts store to get the battery tested, you are the one who decided to come back with a new belt to put on it as well lol

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I replaced the alternator, alt-battery wiring, battery, and pulley belt. And it turns out my dash volt meter does in fact work, and the alt was bad along with the battery. Now nothing dips out while having the turn signals on while running AC, and all the lights!

 

Food for thought, if the alternator is not charging check the wire going from the alt to the power distribution bolt. It uses a fusible wire for circuit protection. Mine tested good.

 

All my battery, grounds and alternator where upgraded to 4 ga wiring. Additional engine compartment grounds where added as per cruiser's tips, dash ground upgrade is next on the list.

 

 

you forgot to add the part where i helped you and bought you some parts  :thumbsup:  :wrench:

 

 

I sent you to the parts store to get the battery tested, you are the one who decided to come back with a new belt to put on it as well lol

 

i was just doing what was needed to help my brother out  :yes:

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  • 2 months later...

Steven (Black89Comanche) gave me his DIY JRC Off-Road bumper after it was welded up.  So all i needed to do was grind down the messy welds and paint it.

 

My Progress:

26896796565_386a6ba876_k.jpgFinished the grinding by Blue88Comanche, on Flickr

 

26896787795_74837d985f_k.jpgSanding the bumper by Blue88Comanche, on Flickr

 

26624161000_20578e7d98_k.jpgSanding the bumper by Blue88Comanche, on Flickr

 

26862870056_78a443ca84_k.jpgSanding the bumper by Blue88Comanche, on Flickr

 

Apparently they make black primer now, so there really isnt a point in showing the priming process. here is the painted bumper.

26291535873_d09ba4dce2_k.jpgFinal Paint by Blue88Comanche, on Flickr

 

26895816525_232fbe18bd_k.jpgFinal Paint by Blue88Comanche, on Flickr

 

With the paint done and curing over night we can jump to installation. 

 

Mounting the bumper wasn't exactly a smooth process. the two bottom bolts (located beside the shackle) did not line up properly. I still need to drill the holes to correct it.  

 

So here is a Before

26293661673_9e08a36d95_k.jpgOld Bumper by Blue88Comanche, on Flickr

 

and here is After

26295210374_a90cf6517e_k.jpgNew Bumper by Blue88Comanche, on Flickr

 

Alabama requires the license plate be illuminated when the Lights are on. so far the best option i found for a low profile light are these:

Click here for the lights.

they replace the bolts that mount the license plate to the bumper and have a directional led light in it.  they should arrive today and I should have them on tonight!

 

Future plans will be to add some flush mount led pods for improved reverse lighting and a combo 4 pin 7 pin trailer plug.

 

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Did you happen to see what the factory style hitch looked like with the new bumper? I had a guy build me the JCR bumper and have been wanting to buy one of krustys hitches, but am not sure what it will look like. The JCR is not as tall as the factory bumper and I would like for it to be tucked up. I did not use the receiver in the bumper, instead I had my guy work his magic and make that a designated license plate spot knowing I would be buying a hitch.....

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Did you happen to see what the factory style hitch looked like with the new bumper? I had a guy build me the JCR bumper and have been wanting to buy one of krustys hitches, but am not sure what it will look like. The JCR is not as tall as the factory bumper and I would like for it to be tucked up. I did not use the receiver in the bumper, instead I had my guy work his magic and make that a designated license plate spot knowing I would be buying a hitch.....

That looks CLEAN. Love the license plate mount.

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Where did you find that comanche shirt? It's awesome!

a member made and sold those shirts on eBay for a while. I'm not sure if he still is. I should have bought several when I did cause it's my favorite shirt and it's starting to look it.
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Where did you find that comanche shirt? It's awesome!

a member made and sold those shirts on eBay for a while. I'm not sure if he still is. I should have bought several when I did cause it's my favorite shirt and it's starting to look it.

 

 

Thanks, I'll see if I can find one. Great build btw!

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