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Millionth Lift Question?


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Well, I guess this is a bundle of questions wrapped up into one basic check up list. :help:

 

I wanted to make sure with the MJ community, that this sounds like a decent lift plan. Overall I am looking for a total of about 4" My plan is to make my MJ one that can survive moderate trail rides, and handle light mud (like 4-12" of mud.) I also want to be able to cross light streams/creeks (1-3').

I am also looking to be cost effective. Not necessarily "cheap" but at least budget conscience. I am basing my build off of this posting

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Sus ... t_Lift.htm

 

 

Here is my plan:

-ZJ front coils v8 (preferably upcountry if I can find them) and the stock isolators

-1.75" coil spacers

-Dodge dakota rear leafs, with light modifications (similiar to internet site)

-Rough Country MJ 4" lift shocks

-Bumpstop modifications

 

So..... Now my questions are as follows.... Does this sounds like it will give me the right amount of lift? do I need to do anything about my control arms, track bar, steering components? what about my slip yoke? and do I need to change the position of my T-case and transmission to get proper drive line angles? :dunno:

 

Any and all help is greatly appreciated :D

 

P.S. 86 comanche-4wd- 2.8L- 5 speed- Stock drivetrain- D30 front- D35 rear- 4.10 gears all around

 

Thanks!

-Nate

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I'm assuming you're staying SUA and maybe sporting 31s?.. After 3 inches you should get lcas and a new adjustable trackbar.. As for brakelines I would change them out for some chevy k1500 rears ~$25 and any extended ones for the front... I'm not sure how much lift the Dakota leaf pack will give you but if you want a very flexy rear try to add more skinnier leafs... Think of it as bending 20 straws compared to 4-5 metal forks

Edit: tcase drops lower the back of your drivetrain so cylinders 1-2 are higher than the rest and getting less oil..plus manche driveshafts are longer so we don't need a drop or SYE unless you lift it real high

Jeep on -Nick

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that site shows a Cherokee lift. Dakota packs might lift you an inch in an MJ. We have very different leaf packs than Cherokees.

 

longer control arms are a must at 4". so are longer brake lines, track bar and sway bar links.

 

what size tires are you looking to run?

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With the length of a Comanche rear drive shaft, you don't need to think about a transfer case drop or slip yoke eliminator. Proper drive line angles with the stock rear drive shaft is the pinion angle of the rear axle being parallel to the transfer case output shaft.

 

I doubt you're going to be able to get 4" of rear lift with any bastard leaf pack, unless you go spring over axle and use flatter than stock leafs. With V8 ZJ front springs and 1.75" pucks, 3" might be a better match for the rear. v* Upcountry springs will lift an inch more but may be difficult to find. There are two vendors I know of offering 3" Comanche lift packs (and also 4.5"), both are on this site, and I believe they both offer the same springs. IIRC there's a sticky in the "for sale" section. Then toss under a set of 31x10.50 tires on stock 15x7 Comanche or Cherokee rims for a bit more lift (~3"-4" larger than stock tire = ~1.5"-2" lift).

 

You should get a longer or adjustable track bar and longer or adjustable lower control arms. IMO upper control arms are never a bad idea when the lowers are replaced with after market, but not absolutely necessary for what you're doing. Longer brake hoses are definitely a good idea.

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Thanks everyone for your advice and help! :cheers:

I forgot to mention tires! I would like to run 33's but 31x10.50 should be plenty fine too. Right off of the line though, it will be run on 235/75/15's because I just bought them :P

So! added to the list:

-Extended brake lines (chevy k1500 rears)

-Adjustable Lower Control arms

-Adjustable track bar

-SOA conversion, I will do more reading about it, but I'm assuming you get about 2" of lift just by doing that

-Chevy drop shackles. will this get me the other 2"? Otherwise I suppose I can also block the rear when I do the SOA conversion to help.

-Sway bar links (with disconnects!)

And if it really comes down to it, I will just fire up the good old fashion Ebay machine, and pick up a set of aftermarket lift coils to get that 4" front ;)

 

with the 2 in blue, I might just go with what mvusse said, and pick up a 4" lift pack if this seems like a better idea to everyone.

 

Do I need to go bigger on my lift to get that magic spot where 33's work? I really like the look of Pete M's 88, so thats pretty much what I am shooting for. Although I don't really want to mess around with the axle swaps in his build page quite yet....

And fender trims are totally fine with me! the truck doesn't have any sentimental value to me..... YET!

 

Thanks again!

-Nate

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SOA (spring over axle) nets about 6" of lift.

 

If you're going to be running 235s for a while, just get some 2" pucks and chevy drop shackles. then expand that later on when you're ready for some bigger tires. :thumbsup:

 

Is this truck a daily driver? see much highway?

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This truck is not a DD, eventually I would like it to be road worthy though! it has every electrical issue known to man, there fore blinkers, headlights, tail lights, stop lights are non functional :( it has a custom front bumper (THANKS BEN!!), and a tow bar set up that I use to get it to my "offroad" destinations. The reason for the 235's? I swap the wheels back and forth from my ranger to my jeep. My ranger rims have summer tires, and my jeep rims now have BFG A/T KO's and since my ranger is 2wd, it gets the KO's for winter, and when summer comes the jeep will get the KO's for offroading.

 

hahah well! looks like I will be skipping the SOA!

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Keep in mind that if you go 33s your gonna want to regear.

 

As Pete said soa will give you 5-6 inches,the rear already sits higher then the front so right now I'm 6.5-7" up front to make it level.

 

Originally I had 5" up front with soa rear and it looked ok.

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Having put several sets of springs and other assorted parts on my truck and investing a lot of time and money, including gas money searching junk yards near and far, I'd have been better off saving for a complete kit. I learned a lot but in retrospect, if the parts your after aren't readily available, you might be happier hooking up with one of the many friendly XJ/MJ vendors. Some may have some used stuff for you too. Also check the classifieds on Nagca.com for ZJ coils if you do the piece by piece route.

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Am I still going to need to re-gear even with the 4.10 ratio?

 

So all taken into consideration, I'm looking at zj upcountry coils, 2" spacer, and an SOA with some flatter springs. Anyone have any ideas for a flatter leaf spring? or is that just something I should look at when I am at the junkyard and make some base measurements?

 

Rumor also has it that certain f-150 coils will also net that 4" lift but are stiff for on road. So I may just go that route

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Even with 4.10s your truck will be a bit under powered and your 5th gear will be useless with 33s,also with 33s on your stock CAD axle you will be breaking axles/ujoints.

 

Seems like your going through a lot of work to piece together a lift that won't perform very well. You should be able to get a 4"-4.5" kit fairly inexpensively

 

Imo I would rather have a $400-$500 kit then a bunch of pieced together junk

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I think you guys are right. Looks like I will be going for a 4.5" rough country kit, with adjustable track bars and control arms. Maybe even a 6" since I am getting the adjustable equipment anyway :D Thank you for all the input!

 

And Ben! I called in to get the bumper powder coated- Even though I know the owner, and we are good friends, they still want close to $160 for the powder coating. So I might just end up doing the old rattle can method this spring. I would like to wait until I can get the powder coating though! Or at least a good quality tractor paint.

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