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Some where I saw a thread on lifting an MJ with junkyard parts from other vehicles mostly for the front and SOA (spring over axel) in the rear.

Sorry I'm just to cheap to buy new. I'd rather make it or adapt it myself.

Any help doing things on the cheap would be great!

Chardo :USAflag:

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F-150 springs aren't hard ... they're brutal. They are worse than the 4" Trailmaster springs I had in my '88. Notice I wrote "had" -- past tense. I couldn't take the ride any more. I took out the lift and went back to stock height. What an improvement!

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i to am to cheap to buy a lift so i soa'd the rear which gave me 4-5 in the back. then put 2" spacers and got coils from a zj v-8(and was told they are from and upland? package) and that gave me 4 1/2 up front and i made little lift blocks for the shocks. rides smooth and no DW!!!!

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...hey bdjr....."i to am to cheap to buy a lift so i soa'd the rear which gave me 4-5 in the back. then put 2" spacers and got coils from a zj v-8(and was told they are from and upland? package) and that gave me 4 1/2 up front and i made little lift blocks for the shocks. rides smooth and no DW!!!!"

 

.....I just bought an '88 2WD MJ Sport (4.0 / 5spd) for $200 and like you want the cheapest lift possible . I used to have a '83 AMC Eagle sedan that I put 4" blocks between the rear axle and springs and a 3" rubber insualtor on top of the front coils. really got it up there but got the death wobble around 60-70mph when you'd hit a bump. This car was nearly identical to the trucks suspension.

I don't care about ride quality as this truck will be the back woods firewood hauler, will the "cheap lifting" cause the dangerous wobble?

I'm new to the Jeep thing, what is the name for the zj you got the springs from?

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I just remembered, I have a set of springs from the front of a '66 390 Fairlane GT, was going to use them for a bigblock '68 Cougar conversion. Any body have an idea on the height measurement of an unloaded stock spring ? I know these springs will be stiffer than the trucks, a 390 was quite heavy!!

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we can not predict the dreaded DW. i got lucky with my setup, but was prepared to deal with it if it occured. the DW can be caused by to many things combined or even one defective part. so all i can say is try it and see if it works for you. ;)

 

bill

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. I used to have a '83 AMC Eagle sedan that I put 4" blocks between the rear axle and springs and a 3" rubber insualtor on top of the front coils. really got it up there but got the death wobble around 60-70mph when you'd hit a bump. This car was nearly identical to the trucks suspension.

your Eagles suspension was nothing like the Jeep suspension up front, Eagles were IFS.

Things to deal with when lifting the front 5 link.

Stock arms at that height will pull the wheel way back in the wheel well.

You're caster angle will be horrible. Caster is a big reason why people get DW.

The ride will be horrible, the arms were designed to be parallel to the ground, at those angles the bushings will take a beating.

The track bar will need to be lengthened to recenter the axle under the truck.

You'll likely be near the maximum travel for the TRE's in the stock y-link, so they will wear faster.

That's about the list.

recommend:

drop brackets to solve the wheel well clearance, control arm and caster issues.

adjustable trackbar.

upgraded steering.

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I still have not found a thread I saw on lifting an MJ with junkyard parts from other vehicles mostly for the front and SOA (spring over axel) in the rear.

Sorry I'm just to cheap to buy new. I'd rather make it or adapt it myself.

Any help doing things on the cheap would be great!

Chardo

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