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Rear 4 link

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i have thought about it a lot. the one thing that always held me back from doing it was the fact that the leafs perform so well. they pretty much match the flex of my front end. stable flex is good flex.

Flex is good but how is the rear traction on these things? I've seen numerous lifted leaf sprung vehicles that hop and spin while trying to climb, axle wrap seems to be an issue on some as well. How do lifted Comanche's do on leafs?

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The rear leafs are pretty long and do flex well. if you plan on keeping the bed There's really no reason to ditch the leafs. You might be able to get more droop out of a very well thought out link setup. But that's a lot of work for just a little more down travel. If you're ditching the bed, then there area lot more reasons to go to a rear 4-link. Like changing the wheelbase and 90* departure angle.


As far as axle wrap goes if you plan on keeping a low center of gravity then keep your rear axle spring under that will help. If you're really worried about it you could always add a traction bar.

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  • 2 months later...

I have tossed the idea around for the last 6 months and I have decided that I am going to 4 link the rear.


Yes I have noticed that with the right set up the leaf set up will flex yet to get the mad articulation I think the 4 link is with out a doubt better.


The bed. Yes I would agree with everyone that it is an issue to be considered. If you aren't planning on raising the height of the truck to near monster truck standard then the bed is in the way. With 35's and my leaf set up I have a rub issue on the tub at max flex. I am sure that with 2 inch wheel spacers or an axle swap with a wider foot print it may correct it but now you have to wonder if its all worth it?


I am planning on doing mine for two reasons. The first is I love to be different and a street driven 4 linked Comanche wouldn't be a common site driving down the street/trail. The second is I have learned from many people that you can tune a 4 link to do some wonderful things.


I plan on adding enough height as well as wheel spacers to avoid any bed issues. I'm not in territory where rock crawling is big, here it is large mud holes and who can out do who on the trail. If I were to do a lot of crawling then I would keep COG low and ditch the bed to install the 4 link.


I am stuck on a few issues. What style rod ends to use and what springs to install. I originally planned to add in a set of one ton axles out of a Dodge 3500 but when I realized I would have to run 42 inch tires just to get the same clearance as I do now with the D44 and 35's I decided not to. The other factor was my decision to not do a V8 conversion when the 4.0 died.



What research have you done so far?

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What style rod ends to use and what springs to install.


These are beef and a great deal considering they come with bungs and jamb nuts. $125 plus around $30 for tubing and you have control arms. Dan is a great guy to deal with too!

Currie, Johnny joints are a good choice too and are rebuildable, price is pretty good too but you'll need to buy the bungs and jamb nuts. Brad @ Barnes 4wd is good to deal with and can hook you up on the JJ's.

I would stay away from Ballistic Fab joints, they have seemingly improved there joint design but the customer service is very sketchy (personal experience and experience of several people I know).

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I just sent this to MUDTRUCK87 and then saw the link a thought I should post it for everyone.


J B Cuz


thanks for resending the e mail. I think I am using what you would call a parallel style. i used the stock front spring mounts and made my own arms from RE builder parts. The mount for the axle with the stinger is made of 1/4 steel and boxed around the nose and pulled back tight using axle bolts. It can be made mostly from 1/4 x 6" flat stock. Other then a band saw you would need a welder and a hole saw. The stinger and mount are made from 1 1/4 dom and scrap I had laying around. By using a long stinger you can control the wheel hope and torque with less strength than a short one. I use about a 6" ride height for every day running, so 8" is not out of the question.



view from rear, shows track bar



view looking to t case shows end of stinger and mount. Yes that is me



view looking to rear



side view looking toward pass side


The only change I would make is to make the area where the stinger mounts to the body wider so it would spread the load better. Now when changing from forward to reverse I sometimes get a thump noise, due to load change.


Any more questions feel free to ask.


J B Cuz

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I'm sorry, but that is the worst setup I have ever seen. Unless I'm missing something in the pictures, it looks like you are running a 2-link with a trac/panhard bar, and a traction bar. You used the factory leaf mounts for your frame-side link mounts, another fail, and your tracbar appears to have bushings at both ends, okay whatever, but the frame-side mount is welded to sheetmetal. Do the airbags have built in bumpstops? Have you driven this on the street? If you do, I feel like I should alert the people of St. Paul. Either way, it won't last long like that.

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