SuperWade2 Posted November 1, 2010 Share Posted November 1, 2010 The plastic on this thing seems to have melted pretty good and coolant basically just pouring out. What is it, and where can I get a replacement? Changing to an open system is basically off the table right now, I just need to keep it running for now and don't really want to dump ANY $$$ into it if I don't HAVE too...I'd probably still sell it and get something I could trust for a daily driver if I thought it was worth anything. Wade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver88 Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 That gizmo controls flow to the heater core via the 2 small vac,lines from the dash controls. Don't know about finding a replacement. You can take it out of the loop( ie bypass it). Only thing is, hot coolant will always be flowing through the heater core. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pioneer Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 Not sure if its the same thing, but when I did my open swap I replaced that with a Heater Control Valve. The 2 are a little different, but I picked mine up at advance. I'm sure one of the auto parts stores would have the one you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 It is a heater control valve. No clue why they put it there as I have noticed no difference in in-cab temps or operation when I effectively bypassed mine. Just take it out and replace the two hoses with one longer one, or splice them together using a fitting from a backflush kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 just remove it. go ahead and saw it out, then clamp the hose over the tube. done deal. this will also prevent any and all future heater core blockages (constant coolant flow through heater core), and allow your engine to run a bit cooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 Junk it Wade. Same as above. They did away with the POS water valves on the 1996+ XJs anyhow. Don't forget to block the vacuum line that's going to the valve too. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted November 2, 2010 Author Share Posted November 2, 2010 OK, I'm a little slow when it comes to this stuff... (nobody would argue) There are two line split off this same thing...one that goes up into the pressure bottle and the other that's going into the Firewall... Are you guys saying just chop off the one going to the firewall, and extend that hose? And what about the Sensor that's hanging off the back there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 chop the bad part out of the line, reconnect rubber hose to metal tube, clamp, call it good. block the vacuum hose that's going to it, and you are done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted November 2, 2010 Author Share Posted November 2, 2010 chop the bad part out of the line, reconnect rubber hose to metal tube, clamp, call it good. block the vacuum hose that's going to it, and you are done. Ok, still don't really understand, but I maybe will make more sense when I get it off...the "bad part" is the entire piece with the red circle...if I chop that off, I'm going to need a longer hose anyhow Don't know how to "block a vacuum hose" either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 the part that you put a circle over in your picture....remove it. this requires cutting the metal line on one end. then reconnect the hose to the part that the vacuum piece is on, using a clamp. the sole purpose of this is to remove the bad part. remove, reconnect, done. to block the vacuum hose, get a screw with silicon on it and pop it in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted November 2, 2010 Author Share Posted November 2, 2010 the part that you put a circle over in your picture....remove it. this requires cutting the metal line on one end. then reconnect the hose to the part that the vacuum piece is on, using a clamp. the sole purpose of this is to remove the bad part. remove, reconnect, done. to block the vacuum hose, get a screw with silicon on it and pop it in. I'm going to have to cut on the right as it sits in that picture...meaning the hose is now 3" too short to connect to whatever is left of the part I chopped off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeepcoMJ Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 it should stretch just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted November 2, 2010 Author Share Posted November 2, 2010 it should stretch just fine. Thanks Pat! Told you I'm slow! :nuts: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akula69 Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 Wade - the silver cannister that is attached is the vaccum actuator that moves the valve inside the plastic fitting. The valve controls the water flow to the heater core. Like Pat said - cut off the metal pipe just past the black plastic, and stretch the hose to re-connect. Plug the vaccum hose and be done with it. You can get a replacement from Auto Zone for the heater control, but you do not need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmJay Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 The only place I've seen that sells the Heater Control Valve is Team Cherokee. So you know that's expensive... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deziped Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 Summers get pretty warm in your part of the country, I would replace the valve. Running heat through the box at the same time your A/C is running will probally reduce the effective of any cooling attempt blowing out the vents (hot and cold you'll get luke warm at best). I have on ocassion gone to JY and searched vehicles regardless of mfg to find a valve similiar to the non-working one and adapted it to fill my needs. OLder Chrysler products have worked for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 I have a couple of those laying around that you can have if you really want it. A golf tee makes a good plug for vac line Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted November 2, 2010 Share Posted November 2, 2010 Junk it. As said before. IIRC the '96+ hoses will swap with the older ones and do away with the valve. Also make a good time to flush the heater core if not the whole system. And as mentioned you can either plug the end of the vacuum line with a golf tee or screw or you can trace the line back to the manifold (or wherever it draws vacuum from) and remove the line there and cap it with a vacuum cap available at any parts store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperWade2 Posted November 3, 2010 Author Share Posted November 3, 2010 Something like this? Warmed it up a little bit and it didn't leak or overheat, so I guess that's a good sign.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted November 3, 2010 Share Posted November 3, 2010 :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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