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RMS removal and more


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After lots of effort I'm finally at the point to remove the old rear main seal (RMS) from the MJ. I got the bearing cap off and was able to get the lower portion out by yanking with some pliers. The top portion, I was hoping would just slide right out, not so much. I was using a punch and gently hammering on it with little to no results. Will it eventually pop loose after more hammering? There is very little room for error and with tried arms, I threw in the towel after only a dozen wacks.

 

Also I can't seem to figure out how to remove the Trans inspection cover. 4.0L BA/10 combo. I have removed the starter, the three lower bolts, two trans to engine bolts, and two more 1/2" screws/bolts which were up a bit higher. It honestly feels like its just sandwiched in between the engine and trans and won't budge, but maybe I'm missing something. Any ideas? At the bottom there is play and I can get a finger behind it. I don't have to drop the trans to get it off do I?

 

I got a new oil pump and pickup tube/screen. Is there any special instuctions for assembly? Like a glue/sealent or something? I know the oil pump has a gasket for its mounting, I'm more curious about putting the pick up tube on the pump.

 

Thanks

 

-Sean

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The top RMS is a pain. I was able to get mine out by tapping on the passenger side with a punch while a friend (Lenard here on CC) turned the motor over with a ratchet.

 

As for the cover, no, you can't get it off without at least pulling the transmission back a few inches. The cover goes all the way up to the top of the bellhousing. There is a slot in the middle so it can slide off the crank, unfortunately the bellhousing alignment dowels go through that cover.

 

I have on many occasions thought about cutting that stupid thing in half so it can function like an AW-4 cover.

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One of the tricks to removing the upper half is to carefully loosen up the rest of the main caps to give a small amount of wiggle room. Make sure you know the torque specs and tightening sequence for the mains.

 

Forgot about that. I had also cracked loose the next 3 main bearing caps. Torqued them back up to 50, then 70, then 80 ft lbs.

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One of the tricks to removing the upper half is to carefully loosen up the rest of the main caps to give a small amount of wiggle room. Make sure you know the torque specs and tightening sequence for the mains.

 

This was the ONLY method that worked for me to get a very stubborn RMS out.

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For the pump & pickup tube assembly: put the pickup tube in the freezer for an hour or so and put the pump in the oven at 250 or 275 for 10-15 minutes. Lock a pair of Vise-Grips on the tube just ahead of the stop (bump on the pickup tube) and hammer on the Vise-Grips. It should go together with a few hits. No sealant needed.

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What transmission inspection cover? The AW4 has an inspection plate. The BA10/5 doesn't.

 

 

Ah, this explains a lot. I just wanted to clean behind it since there is 200k worth of grime hiding there coated in oil.

 

Thanks for all the other tips. I will definitely try loosing the other caps when I get back to it.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I was able to get the old RMS out with just a bit more fuss. I used all of the above tips, and eventually it just busted loose and came right out.

 

On reinstallation I nicked the top piece, so I had to get a new one, which went in smooth. I went back and tightened all the bearing caps up and installed the rear main bearing came with the lower part of the seal.

 

When reinstalling the oil pan with the new rubber one piece gasket is RTV required and if so how much and where to apply? It looks as if it might need a slathering just to stay in place.

 

Thanks

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You need a small dab of RTV where the 90* bends to go over the rear bearing cap, and a small dab up front where the timing cover meets the oil pan and block.

 

I haven't done it, but I've seen here that you can use 4 small zip ties to hold the gasket on, get it up to the block, thread in a good portion of the bolts, then cut the zip ties out.

 

I'm certainly going to try that next time I install a pan in the truck.

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After lots of effort I'm finally at the point to remove the old rear main seal (RMS) from the MJ. I got the bearing cap off and was able to get the lower portion out by yanking with some pliers. The top portion, I was hoping would just slide right out, not so much. I was using a punch and gently hammering on it with little to no results. Will it eventually pop loose after more hammering? There is very little room for error and with tried arms, I threw in the towel after only a dozen wacks.

 

Also I can't seem to figure out how to remove the Trans inspection cover. 4.0L BA/10 combo. I have removed the starter, the three lower bolts, two trans to engine bolts, and two more 1/2" screws/bolts which were up a bit higher. It honestly feels like its just sandwiched in between the engine and trans and won't budge, but maybe I'm missing something. Any ideas? At the bottom there is play and I can get a finger behind it. I don't have to drop the trans to get it off do I?

 

I got a new oil pump and pickup tube/screen. Is there any special instuctions for assembly? Like a glue/sealent or something? I know the oil pump has a gasket for its mounting, I'm more curious about putting the pick up tube on the pump.

 

Thanks

 

 

 

-Sean

 

 

if your oil pan is off and bearing cap is off. take a punch and tap pout the old seal then when putting the new seal in. grease it up real good and it will slide then tap in place then bam your done. i did my old XJ in 1 hour

 

oil pan seal was a b*@$£ to re seal but i finally got it.

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You need a small dab of RTV where the 90* bends to go over the rear bearing cap, and a small dab up front where the timing cover meets the oil pan and block.

 

I haven't done it, but I've seen here that you can use 4 small zip ties to hold the gasket on, get it up to the block, thread in a good portion of the bolts, then cut the zip ties out.

 

I'm certainly going to try that next time I install a pan in the truck.

 

 

i put RTV every 2" on the pan gasket before i put the pan up in. to hold the gasket in place.

 

BTW get the felpro blue rubber gaskets its like 20.00 and is better then cork.

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BTW get the felpro blue rubber gaskets its like 20.00 and is better then cork.

 

Here I was assuming he was using the rubber one. I'm hoping he is.

 

The cork one will require RTV all the way around, and are just a PITA to remove again. There's no sense in not buying the rubber one.

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The RMS is out. I'm reinstalling the oil pan now. I am using the one piece rubber seal, its not felpro, but it is mopar. So just enough rtv to hold the gasket in place so it doesn't slide around. I'll give that a shot.

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