UNL1MTD Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 Any body got some tips on removing a very stubborn stuck in place 23 year old oil pan? This is on a 87 MJ and I'm trying to do the RMS (rear main seal). I removed all the bolts and studs holding it on. Then I proceeded to be frustrated for about 2 hours. I tried a rubber mallet, dead blow, regular hammer light tapping, and regular hammer pounding on a block of wood. Not so much of a budge out of the thing. I even tried to hang myself from it, no luck. Then I used a drywall putty knife spatula to pry down the pan, no luck (I felt a bit timid and didn't give it more than a couple attempts, didn't want to f-up the matting surfaces. I'm out of ideas and could use some fresh ones. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 Use something with a thin blade, Putty knife, kitchen table knife. Sharpen the end. Tap it in between the pan and block with a hammer.Go all the way around the pan like this. Don't get impatient or p*ssed and try to pry it of. When you cut all the way around it will fall off. I took a putty knife and bent it 90 degrees 1-1/2 inches back. Then brazed a 1 inch wide 2 inch long 1/8 inch thick piece of steel to the backside to hammer on. Works great.Measurements aren't critical. You just want something to hammer on. Use a narrow putty knife. 3/4 or one inch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted February 27, 2010 Share Posted February 27, 2010 :agree: and be prepared to spend some time getting the old cork gasket off afterwards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UNL1MTD Posted February 28, 2010 Author Share Posted February 28, 2010 great suggestion, I'll give that a whirl tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juan Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 I had good results using a propane torch to heat up the edges of the pan to work it loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrusty Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 I literally had to drive a few chisels in strategic places on mine to seperate it from the block.......man was thst thing stuck......lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 An open flame is OK if the block is sitting on the floor or on a stand. It is not advised if the engine is still in the car, truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche09 Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 :agree: Use the one-piece blue fel-pro gasket when you put the pan back on. Apply some RTV around the front and rear seal areas and corners. My pan was really rusty so I replaced it with a nice fresh junkyard one off a '97 XJ. That way, I only had to struggle with getting the original gasket off the block and chucked the pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 On my next engine overhaul I'm going to weld the pan on. I think it's easier to grind the weld off than try to separate a stuck gasket. :huh???: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJ is dead Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 On my next engine overhaul I'm going to weld the pan on. I think it's easier to grind the weld off than try to separate a stuck gasket. :huh???: I certainly hope you're joking :shake: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 OUI? Joke? I believe there are members in this forum that will testify to my dead honest seriousness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1987Comanche Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 I ran into the exact same problem with my '90. I finally said &(* it and started working screwdrivers in between the pan and block on the front pass side (spot with best access/leverage). After about 2 hrs and finally deciding I was going to destroy the pan I got it to break free. I ended up peeling the mating surface back about 3" and distorted the front 1/4 of the pan before I heard the popping sound of the seal breaking free. I was ultimately able to use the body hammer & dolly set to flatten it back out but, if another pan was available I would have given up on the first one. And BTW the RMS is still leaking...I have to go back in again at some point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 I followed the manual...it said "tap the pan lightly from side to side" until it breaks loose...four hours later I was standing there with a wrecking bar and a BFH. My brother came over, sprayed the whole edge LIBERALLY with "gasket remover". The next morning the pan was hanging down sitting on the axle. A little more spray and time and the cork gasket peeled right off. Fel Pro rubber 1 piece, only way to go, spendy but well worth it!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 I always wondered about that. Gonna try it next time. Thanks fer the tip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UNL1MTD Posted February 28, 2010 Author Share Posted February 28, 2010 I followed the manual...it said "tap the pan lightly from side to side" until it breaks loose...four hours later I was standing there with a wrecking bar and a BFH. My brother came over, sprayed the whole edge LIBERALLY with "gasket remover". The next morning the pan was hanging down sitting on the axle. A little more spray and time and the cork gasket peeled right off. Fel Pro rubber 1 piece, only way to go, spendy but well worth it!! I tried the whole putty knife tapping in thing, but I must be uncoordinated because I just can't get any leverage to swing a hammer in there but at one or two spots. I just sprayed the seal with some gasket remover from NAPA. I got almost immediate results with the front passenger side breaking free. I liberally reapplyed and will check again tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimoshel Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 This old dog learned a new trick.gasket remover works. Tried it when it first came out 30-40 years ago. It was messy and useless. Never tried it again, 'till now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 I always have two cans of that stuff stocked in my shop at all times. It's messy, burns when you get it on your skin (and REALLY burns in open wounds), takes paint right off, but man does it work well. I usually need to use it in a two-step process. First step I let it sit for about 15-20 minutes eating away at the gasket and then use a gasket scraper to take off large chunks of gasket. Second step I let it sit again for another 15-20 minutes and can usually wipe the rest of the remaining gasket off with a rag. I've also found that the 'aircraft stripper' paint removal stuff works just as well, but I'm not sure if it's any cheaper - certainly comes in a bigger can, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
one_bad_MJ Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 i had to use a chisel and hammer to break the pan seal on my 89 xj 4.0 pan it bent it a little but i just hammered it back out and took a piece of 7/8" round stock and put it against the garage floor and mashed it flat again so it would seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
one_bad_MJ Posted February 28, 2010 Share Posted February 28, 2010 I always have two cans of that stuff stocked in my shop at all times. It's messy, burns when you get it on your skin (and REALLY burns in open wounds), takes paint right off, but man does it work well. I usually need to use it in a two-step process. First step I let it sit for about 15-20 minutes eating away at the gasket and then use a gasket scraper to take off large chunks of gasket. Second step I let it sit again for another 15-20 minutes and can usually wipe the rest of the remaining gasket off with a rag. I've also found that the 'aircraft stripper' paint removal stuff works just as well, but I'm not sure if it's any cheaper - certainly comes in a bigger can, though. you need a harp chisel and a small hammer to tap across the gasket layer to chip off the original oil pan seal it gets hard as a rock but it chips off takes some time but in the end its still a b*@$£ i tried gasket remover plus you do not want that stuff all up in your bearings it will ruin them . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UNL1MTD Posted March 2, 2010 Author Share Posted March 2, 2010 I managed to get the pan off today. I spent some time getting the front of the pan free using a putty knife, screw driver, and chisel. Then once I got about 3" back on the driver's side I was able to get enough leverage with a screw driver while slamming it with a dead blow and it finally fell off. It felt like christmas. The pan isn't too mangled from the prying, but I think I will replace it since the inside is just caked with oil deposits. Thanks for the ideas, tips, and tricks. I really think letting the gasket remover work a bit made a big difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caseyrstewart Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 After hours of working on the oil pan, I finally got the son of a B off. Now I can't seem to get it down to the ground due to the axle and the transmission being in the way. Anyone have suggestions on what I should remove to make it easier? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ParadiseMJ Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 Try lowering it a little...I know it sounds counter-intuitive...but sometimes it works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caseyrstewart Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 My tires were already off the ground, so I jacked up the axle a couple inches. Surprisingly, it worked. I barely got it out, but it came with some convincing. Hopefully I can get it back in there after a thorough cleaning... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tj1 Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 Just put a new pan on mine today, PO used jb weld to fix a hole.... Mine came off with little fight surprisingly. I ended up pulling the starter and one of the tranny cooling lines help with the removal and scrapping off old gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caseyrstewart Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 While changing the RMS today, I noticed the former owner made some kind of homemade gasket for the bearing plate. Has anyone ever seen anything like this? I peeled it off in one piece because it didn't seem like something that needed to be there. Looks like it was made of RTV. Should I put it back or leave it off? Sorry. Still having trouble with uploading photos to this website. Do they have to be a certain type of file in order to work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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