feerocknok Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 Yeah, it's not a Comanche, but I need to do some floor repairs, and only have a 220V flux-core welder (because I don't have a gas tank). Last time I tried (on another truck) it was a disaster and I just kept burning through everything. I just got the truck and it was cut like this: Will pop rivets hold? Will they seal? Isn't there a sheet metal bond cream thing? Thinner wire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 Can't turn the amperage down way low? And the wire speed up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlumCrazy Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 Eastwood sells a panel kit, comes with Kleco clamps and a tube of stuff...works very well. Item number 31102 http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1668&itemType=PRODUCT Wayne S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted September 24, 2006 Share Posted September 24, 2006 POR-15.COM they have a floorboard repair kit. comes with everything needed. comes with prep stuff, por-15, fiberglass patch, and all the goodies. i have used it several times. not only will it fix your floor but keep it from rusting, fix what rust is there, and the fiberglass patch soaked in the por-15 is just as strong if not better then steel. look it up. i have used it several times for several things. my 86 was my first thing i used it on where i took my time and used it with the patch. and i will say it works like a charm. it even does everything they say it does, like bending with the pipe and stuff. you won't believe some ads you will test when you are bored :chillin: . Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted September 25, 2006 Author Share Posted September 25, 2006 Spendy! On the lowest setting is still eats through, but I never tried cranking the wire speed. It never came to mind. For prices like that, I'll sure try! Thanks all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 ok sorry about that. i didnt think it was that much. i don't use the kit, i had all the stuff already when i did it. here is all you really need: metal ready por-15 silver and the fiberglass patch just replace the marine clean with soapy water, get some cheap brushes from lowes, then smooth it out with some putty of whatever you want, and be sure to paint over it with primer and paint of whatever brand while it is just a few days old or you have to get one of their tie-coat primer, unless it is just going to be covered by carpet or rhino liner or something then don't bother painting it or smoothing it out. and that only comes to 40 dollars not including the cheap bruches and putty and stuff. so you are only looking at 50 tops to do the whole floor with the por-15 so it won't rust back out. Alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 I'm doin' my MJ with sheet metal and sheetmetal screws, some liquid steel too. What kind of truck is that anyway? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randimal Posted September 25, 2006 Share Posted September 25, 2006 I haven't seen anyone mention this, but there is a good way to keep the floors from rusting out. Also good to use after reparing. Husky liners are molded rubber floor mats that are made specifically for each application including XJs and MJs. They are tough AND they go up 2 inches on all sides, so any water from boots and such never makes it to the floorboards. I think they are about 60 bucks a pair. But they are definitely worth it (and I am about as cheap as anyone). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted September 25, 2006 Author Share Posted September 25, 2006 and that only comes to 40 dollars not including the cheap bruches and putty and stuff. so you are only looking at 50 tops to do the whole floor with the por-15 so it won't rust back out. Alex Much nicer! Thank you! I'll check my checking account and see what I can do. I'm doin' my MJ with sheet metal and sheetmetal screws, some liquid steel too. What kind of truck is that anyway? '78 Toy 2wd Pickup. I got it for free on Thursday and have fixed it up quite a bit in the 2 days I wasn't on a trip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted September 26, 2006 Author Share Posted September 26, 2006 I juiced up the wire speed and got her started. Not pretty, but it's working! (The metals from an extra Toyota fender I had laying around) Thanks for the suggestion DC, and thanks for the other suggestions everyone! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Car RamRod Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 those welds look just fine. try this though, the arm that isnt holding the gun put on the floor and slide your other wrist across it. good luck with it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted September 29, 2006 Author Share Posted September 29, 2006 those welds look just fine.try this though, the arm that isnt holding the gun put on the floor and slide your other wrist across it. good luck with it! Well, the issue was just with burning through. Between the flux-core, and the thick wire, I couldn't weld the thin sheetmetal but at 1/2 an inch at a time, and as fast as I could move. Thank you for the suggestion though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdjr Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 this will work ;) borrow one of your wife's good teflon frying pan(or buy a cheapy) and use the bottom of it as a backing against the sheetmetal. it will absorb alot of the excess heat and stop the burn through. works also for filling little holes(or bigger with patience) but you have to be able to access the back of the panel. bill the pipe dream kid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 easiest way to get ti so it doesnt burn through is have the panels overlap each other and spot weld it make your panel overlap the floor but about 1/2" on each side within that overlap drill small holes in the patch panel about and inch or two apart, lay it over the floor and fill in those holes can be seen here, while we were re making my floor to run passenger side drop tcase you will still need to seal it but it will be strong as stock or better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hemi_comanche Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 yes spot welds are your friends Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hot Rod Jeep Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 easiest way to get ti so it doesnt burn through is have the panels overlap each other and spot weld it make your panel overlap the floor but about 1/2" on each side within that overlap drill small holes in the patch panel about and inch or two apart, lay it over the floor and fill in those holes can be seen here, while we were re making my floor to run passenger side drop tcase you will still need to seal it but it will be strong as stock or better Hey Derek, not trying to hi jack this thread but what thickness did you use to patch that with? I switchedto a passenger side drop and need to redo my floor board too. 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 what ever the machine shop had i actually forget, 18, ill look when i get home Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hot Rod Jeep Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 That's kewl, thanks man. :cheers: 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted September 29, 2006 Author Share Posted September 29, 2006 Hey Derek, not trying to hi jack this thread but what thickness did you use to patch that with? I switchedto a passenger side drop and need to redo my floor board too. 8) I hijack everyone's threads, so never be afraid to do it to mine. I used an extra Toyota fender I had. It's strong as crap on my floor for one reason or another. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hot Rod Jeep Posted September 29, 2006 Share Posted September 29, 2006 I hijack everyone's threads, so never be afraid to do it to mine. I used an extra Toyota fender I had. It's strong as crap on my floor for one reason or another. No problem, I do have a bad habbit of that. :D I knew I shoulda kept that crunched MJ fender. 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SaharaTJ Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 I wish i would have seen this earlier I do this stuff alot. I'm doing it to a 86 rustang at the moment. i've been replacing parts of the drivers floor pan and almost the entire passanger. But i'll either use a panel adhesive or i'll stitch weld the panel on depending on how big. Flux-core sucks for stuff like that unless you really take your time. I do use gas with the welders at work and that so its easy for me to tune it in perfect for it. these adhesives have come along way almost half if not more of a new car/truck is glued now along with pinch welds. but i do like using a flanger and glueing the panel on from the bottom its so easy and can take like 10 mins all together that cutting the panel out, cutting one to fit, flanging it, and putting the glue on and having it set up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Car RamRod Posted September 30, 2006 Share Posted September 30, 2006 Well, the issue was just with burning through. Between the flux-core, and the thick wire, I couldn't weld the thin sheetmetal but at 1/2 an inch at a time, and as fast as I could move. Thank you for the suggestion though! that's understandable. And not to be a nit-picker, but the aformentioned spot weld as described is really more of a plug weld. Still though, gets the job done just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89MJComanche Posted October 2, 2006 Share Posted October 2, 2006 those welds look just fine.try this though, the arm that isnt holding the gun put on the floor and slide your other wrist across it. good luck with it! Well, the issue was just with burning through. Between the flux-core, and the thick wire, I couldn't weld the thin sheetmetal but at 1/2 an inch at a time, and as fast as I could move. Thank you for the suggestion though! When you weld sheet metal that is all that you are supposed to do, weld about 1/2 at a time in spaced out sections all the way around and then continue around about 4 times till it is welded in solid. It minimize warping that way,. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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