Has anyone used this air filter ?

[DJM/78]

I picked this up a the parts store the other day .

My air filter wasn't that bad , but I decided to buy a new one . Anyway , I didn't want to pay 50 bucks for a K&N ,

so I bought this . Probably a P.O.S. , but I'll give it a shot for 12 bucks . :chillin:

 

It does drive allot better . allot more eng. response and a lower drive rpm. probably will equate to better fuel consumption .

I would like to see some good , cold air intake systems that you guys have done !! :popcorn:

 

[WBKrazy]

hmmm.... not sure if they still make them, but i used to have a fram airhog filter in my old buick, which was their equivalent of the k&n.... looked the same, but the pleats were orange in color and it was about half the price of the k&n.... it never gave me any trouble.....

[socal1200r]

I've used Uni dual-stage foam filters in numerous applications, from motorcycles, to an SRT-4 I used to own, to several Saturns that I've owned or still own. It's a great alternative to your typical oiled cotton gauze filter, like a K&N, and costs about half of what a K&N filter runs. It's dual-stage, in that the outer sock is coarse, and the inner sleeve is denser, wrapped around a wire coil that gives the filter flexibility in tight spaces, unlike a typical cone filter.

 

Here's a pic of two Uni filters on a dual intake I have on my Saturn Sky. These filters were about $25 each.

 

Here's a Uni filter on the end of the airbox hose on a Saturn SC2. It just needed an angled piece of PVC pipe to connect the two.

 

I'm going to try and install a set of MJ bucket seats later today, along with a full console. If that goes well, I'll take a look inside the stock airbox, and see if there's room to put in one of these Uni filters. I looked at possibly putting a Uni filter on the end of the airbox hose, like what I did to that Saturn SC2, but with the other hoses going into or out of the stock airbox, I think I'll see if i can just put one inside (I did this to an SRT-4 I owned a few years ago). If I do, I'll take some pics and maybe do a DIY writeup!

[DJM/78]

Nice !! :bowdown: I didn't know you were a Saturn fan !!

 

I've been racing bad @ss Saturn's for years !!

 

Check out our new investment :chillin:

Its a XR , with the 6 speed sport shift . Limited Moroccan leather interior .

Sits on 20" W/ ZR rated tires . :drool:

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[socal1200r]

Nice XR! Saturns have always been VERY underrated cars, IMHO. I've owned six of them ('94 SW2, '98 SC2, '00 LW2, '01 L3, '06 VUE, '07 Sky), and loved 'em all! I still have the Sky, and wish I still had the SW2, but I'm happy with playing around with the MJ.

 

To make this thread-related, you should put in a drop-in filter like one of those Frams, or a K&N. Either one would be an improvement over the stock paper pleated filter. Or see if you could squeeze in a Uni foam filter inside the airbox, like I did with my SRT-4:

 

 

Another thing that could help is to route some cold outside air directly into the air box. I did this on the SRt-4, at the very right side of the pic, you can barely see the flex ducting I used to route air right into the air box inlet.

 

I guess the main takeaway is don't discount alternative filters like Unis. Seems like the MJ crowd can get pretty creative, and using a Uni filter, instead of an oiled cotton gauze drop-in or cone-style filter, is a great alternative.

 

http://www.unifilter.com/online%20catal ... ersal.html

[DJM/78]

Thanks !!! I like that filter , I'll check it out . :thumbsup:

[dasbulliwagen]

I had a cold air kit I removed from a mazda 3 a while back. It sat around the house for a couple years before I thought about trying it on the MJ. I had to cut the tube down quite a bit to make it fit, but the original filter, I think an AIR-RAID or soemthing like that, and the original rubber boot to connect it fit in there perfectly. I made a mounting bracket for the tube support too. Works real nice and the filter is washable... no oil type. My engine is the 2.5.

 

[socal1200r]

I had a cold air kit I removed from a mazda 3 a while back. It sat around the house for a couple years before I thought about trying it on the MJ. I had to cut the tube down quite a bit to make it fit, but the original filter, I think an AIR-RAID or soemthing like that, and the original rubber boot to connect it fit in there perfectly. I made a mounting bracket for the tube support too. Works real nice and the filter is washable... no oil type. My engine is the 2.5.

 

What did you do with the hoses that went into/out of the stock air box (other than the main intake hose)? Did you plug them, route them to a catch bottle or to ground, or? That's the main problem that's stopping me from doing the exact same thing...

[1990 Pioneer 4x4]

I did what you didn't want to do, spend $50. You sure can tell a difference.

 

[socal1200r]

I did what you didn't want to do, spend $50. You sure can tell a difference.

 

 

That's the stock filter on the left, and a K&N filter on the right, correct? If I can't figure out an easy way to remove the stock air box and put a filter on the end of the TB intake hose, then an upgraded drop-in filter would be a good alternative. I popped open the air box, and might be able to put a Uni foam filter in there, like in that pic of the SRT-4 air box, but I'll have to play around with it tomorrow. I'm thinking I'd need a 45-degree elbow, with one end going into the TB hose on the inside of the air box lid, with a filter attached to the other end, sitting inside the air box. At least that way, I won't have to deal with the hoses and other things that are attached to the air box now.

 

However, I still might do something with that valve cover vent hose that goes into the air box. Either put a breather right on the valve cover, or connect some hose to the plastic fitting that's on there now, with a breather filter on the end, and route it somewhere. A trick I learned from doing this on some of my motorcyles was to put a loop in the routing, and try and put the end higher than the source, to reduce or eliminate the oily stuff making it all the way out.

[1990 Pioneer 4x4]

I did what you didn't want to do, spend $50. You sure can tell a difference.

 

 

That's the stock filter on the left, and a K&N filter on the right, correct?

 

Yes.

[dasbulliwagen]

I had a cold air kit I removed from a mazda 3 a while back. It sat around the house for a couple years before I thought about trying it on the MJ. I had to cut the tube down quite a bit to make it fit, but the original filter, I think an AIR-RAID or soemthing like that, and the original rubber boot to connect it fit in there perfectly. I made a mounting bracket for the tube support too. Works real nice and the filter is washable... no oil type. My engine is the 2.5.

 

What did you do with the hoses that went into/out of the stock air box (other than the main intake hose)? Did you plug them, route them to a catch bottle or to ground, or? That's the main problem that's stopping me from doing the exact same thing...

 

I have the big hose that went to the airbox running back toward the firwall with another hose section running it down under the truck, I need to do soething different with it, but havent had the time.

[DJM/78]

I like the idea of a cold air intake , I have used other systems before . If I'm going to spend 50 bucks on a filter , witch I

 

will , I would rather buy one for a cold air pipe . The performance gain is a must up here in Colorado . :chillin:

[Pete M]

my 2 cents, if you don't somehow separate the aftermarket cone intake from he engine bay, it's not really a cold air intake, but more of a hot air intake. :D

[socal1200r]

my 2 cents, if you don't somehow separate the aftermarket cone intake from he engine bay, it's not really a cold air intake, but more of a hot air intake. :D

 

Yup, I agree. If the air filter isn't isolated from the heat of the engine compartment, it's going to be sucking in hot air, not cold. You could use the stock airbox, put a filter in there, and route a hose from the front of the vehicle into the airbox, so it's got a ram air/cold air thing going on. That's what I did on the SRT-4 picture. The Uni filter was isolated in the stock airbox, and I routed some flexible ducting from outside the engine compartment to the airbox inlet in the fender, totally bypassing the heat of the engine compartment. On the pics of the dual filters on my Sky, altho they're not in an airbox, they are directly behind the front grill, and I also have some ducting that I routed from the lower grills, by the driving lights, that feed cold air to the filters as well.

 

All things being equal, you're still better off with an upgraded drop-in filter like a K&N, that flows more air. Next step up would be something like a Uni filter in the airbox, with a cold air hose. I'm going to see if I can rig up something like that. I need to get the inlet dimension of the hose in the airbox lid that goes to the TB, then see what size outside diameter the adapter piece will have, which will determine the inlet size of the Uni filter, and of course the airbox interior dimensions will determine the overall size of the Uni filter. Shouldn't be too hard to do, hardest thing will probaby be trying to find the right size Uni filter at the local motorcycle parts store (Cycle Gear). If they don't have one in stock, I'll have to go online, at the Uni link I posted, figure out which one should work, and have them order it for me. I prefer Cycle Gear over some of the dealerships, 'cuz they give me a military discount!

 

If I get this done, I'll post pics...

[jimoshel]

I got tired of spending money on air filters to replace the dirty ones. So the last one I bought I covered it in plastic to keep it clean. Now my Jeep won't start. WHY?

[BORDENCOMANCHE]

Guys what the :mad: are you doing?

 

These are jeeps not race cars. You wanna make a cold air intake? Buy the $5 dollars filter and snorkel the damn thing for $40 with your local PVC supplies.

 

It works and it sounds cool.

[socal1200r]

I got tired of spending money on air filters to replace the dirty ones. So the last one I bought I covered it in plastic to keep it clean. Now my Jeep won't start. WHY?

 

Lol...aw, come on now, stop funnin' with us...

[socal1200r]

Guys what the :mad: are you doing?

 

These are jeeps not race cars. You wanna make a cold air intake? Buy the $5 dollars filter and snorkel the damn thing for $40 with your local PVC supplies.

 

It works and it sounds cool.

 

It's not that we think our MJ's are race cars, but any little bit to get more hp is worth considering (muffler, TB spacer, engine swap, stroker, etc). Just about any car will benefit from a good cold air intake setup, and depending on how it's done, shouldn't be too expensive. Now a snorkel is another method for a cold air intake, one that is definitely better for someone who would take their MJ thru deep water, than a cold air setup entirely inside the engine compartment. However, I don't plan on fording any rivers in mine, so I'm trying to keep everything under the hood.

 

But if I ever see an MJ on a "Fast and Furious" movie, then I know it'll be time to sell it and move on, lol...

[DJM/78]

I think I'll fab an air box close to where the stock one sits . Over in the corner . I've done this before , but I wanted to see some

 

of your ideas . Guess I'll have to do some fab. work

 

Thanks for the input . :thumbsup:

[DJM/78]

Guys what the :mad: are you doing?

 

These are jeeps not race cars. You wanna make a cold air intake? Buy the $5 dollars filter and snorkel the damn thing for $40 with your local PVC supplies.

 

It works and it sounds cool.

 

The main reason why I am doing this is to get more Oxygen in the motor . I live at 7,500 ft. and most trails head strait up to 10,000 ft.

 

REAL quick !!! True cold air intakes are usually mandrel bent aluminum w/ reduction at TBI or at the manifold . Also most good

 

cold air pipes are honed for air velocity perfection , creating a vortex of pressurized air . Letting your motor do its job , improving

 

power , fuel milage , throttle response and of course , sound !!

 

Never put a plastic pipe on any motor , no offense but It would be the same as the plastic box thats on there now .

 

Not only that , but the aluminum pipes disperse heat much faster and keeps the air inside cooler .

 

I live at the base of Pikes Peak , home of the , Pikes Peak Hill Climb , one of the toughest races any motor can endure .

 

Allot of the brand new 100,000 dollar race motors don't even make it to the top , ( 14,000 ft ) + .

 

Even Ol' Al Unser has been defeated by this climb in the past , many times . Every thousand feet , it seems you loose 10 hp .

 

At 13-14,000 ft , you've got your foot all the way in the gas , just to get up the road .

 

Any motor at this altitude should have a better air box set up . I think its a must .

[Pete M]

switch to the high altitude CPS (if you're not running it already). :thumbsup:

[DJM/78]

switch to the high altitude CPS (if you're not running it already). :thumbsup:

 

Thanks pete !! Where would I get one ?

 

still a newb !

[Pete M]

Jeep dealership? I used to have the part number for it, but it's long since gone missing. Just ask the guys with a new thread. I'm sure someone can grab ya a number. :thumbsup:

[HOrnbrod]

The high altitude CPS for the Renix 4.0 is p/n 53003659, superseded by p/n 53005421. For the 91+ HO 4.0 engines there was only one factory CPS.