Oizarod115 Posted December 6, 2006 Share Posted December 6, 2006 its because a rangers body sits ON the frame... our body is part of the frame... thats a good 4" right there. our seats bolt into our "framerails" if you will. so if we roll up next to an H2 in my bros 6" XJ on 35s... its the same size. but if you were to measure clearance... the jeeps are the hands down winners EDIT: plus the fact that we have NO headroom. haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted December 7, 2006 Share Posted December 7, 2006 The camber is totally f'd? That's a set of bad unit bearings. And possibly ball joints... The camber, yes, but also the axle itself looks physically bent. I'll snap a pic tomorrow after class so you can see or correct me. I have to bring it to a mechanic shop to have them sign a paper verifying that the engine is installed properly. Maybe they can check somehow. Have you tried putting it in 4wd and seeing it anything explodes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted December 7, 2006 Author Share Posted December 7, 2006 I think the vacuum leak is what is preventing the 4wd from working cause it doesn't lock in, and the light's on in 2 or 4 wheel mode. So it hasn't busted yet. Think one of my friends nabbed my camera today, frustrating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted January 21, 2007 Author Share Posted January 21, 2007 Took 2 hours to get my new CPS in. Turned out that it doesn't plug in backwards :nuts: The timing is Horrible, making my power house 2.5L dog around, and Chilton and Haynes said you can't adjust the timing on this motor, so I'm going to rotate the distributor and change the timing anyways. A quick eyeing of the axle without taking the tires off off the ground looks like bent outer 'C's and a bent axle tubes, but I'll be checking a little more closely tomorrow and I'll be looking at ball joints and unit bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGHEEP Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 Never noticed this build before. Your MJ has come a long way. Keep the pics coming. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sinnaevd Posted January 21, 2007 Share Posted January 21, 2007 my front passenger side also looks like it ison a bit of an angle...but it just passed safety and if it needed new ball joints and bearings i would have thought that they would have checked right? Dirty, do you know is the safety regulations here are the same in BC? or are there even safety regs out there? i know alberta has none Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted January 25, 2007 Author Share Posted January 25, 2007 Truck is registered and I put a good 80 miles on it today! The bad: Park is sometimes Reverse or Neutral. Bad wobble if I hit a big bump at 60ish and have to slow down to 50 and build speed back up. Top speed is 73 mph. Less quick than my 20R Yota (stick shift Yota though) Bad tick that sounds like timing which can't be adjusted, so premium, here I come. Takes ~40 minutes to warm up, and even then is below operating temp. XTerrains are Loud!!! (alignment is bad though) 3-speed tranny So, I gotta work on my shift linkage, check my trac bar bushings, regear, run premium, put cardboard over my radiator, and possibly change trannies, but it's not likely. However, all the tire shops in town while looking for wheels seemed to like the truck, the lady adores it, it's smooth and fairly quiet, and it's so nice to not have to manually shift on the highway. Comanches get an A+! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BRC 88MJ Posted January 25, 2007 Share Posted January 25, 2007 Just a thought on the ticking noise, is it a leaky exhaust gasket? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted January 25, 2007 Author Share Posted January 25, 2007 Just a thought on the ticking noise, is it a leaky exhaust gasket? There is a small leak that I believe is either a crack in the manifold or between the manifold and down pipe, but this particular ticking comes at about 3000 RPMs and is definitely timing :cry: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepthing07 Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 I just got a aluminum 2.5 valve cover for my 89 TBI is yours aluminum? i thought they were all plastic untill the 2.5 got MPFI that AMC logo is awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 Couple things to check.. 1) Your heat problem. Check to make sure you have a thermostat in place. Bet ya there is none in there. If its gone, the PO took it out for a reason. How does the anti freeze look? Maybe it had an overheating problem. You motor will like you MUCH better if you re-install one. 2) If you top speed is only 73 and your motor is pinging. I would check that timing. Someone has been in there fiddling around. Get a timing light and make it right. 3) Wobbles like you talking about are likely tire balance. Death Wobble, generally cannot be overcome with out a full stop and you walk TWO FULL complete circles around the jeep to see what exactly fell off!! ;) :roll: :eek: 4) Your TB only has one bushing. Thats at the axle end and if its a factory, its not changeable. If its shot you will need a complete new TB. Good luck, CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted January 29, 2007 Author Share Posted January 29, 2007 Jeepthing, this one's plastic hit with some Cheverolet Blue engine enamel and some model paint silver on the runners. Where'd you find an aluminum one at? CW, we replaced the thermostat, but I think we put in a 160, and should have put in a 200. Is there any way to adjust timing on these? We tried turning the dist but it didn't effect timing :nuts: I'm gonna get some new rims, so Ill get the tires rebalanced and see if that'll help. Hope I don't need BBs in only 31s, but might try it. And for the trac bar, when I welded the bolt on that holds it to the axle, I think I might have damaged that bushing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted January 29, 2007 Share Posted January 29, 2007 Yea, get thet 160 out of there. factory is 195 I believe. 180 is the lowest anyone should put in. Also be sure you have completely "burper" the system. An air bubble is a bad thing in a closed systtem like the MJ's renex have. I would avoid the BB's. I am removing mine as well. Having the tires rebalanced with stick on weights on the inside of the rim where they are harder to rub off!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeepthing07 Posted January 30, 2007 Share Posted January 30, 2007 All the MPFI 2.5's had aluminum covers they are $120 from the dealer. My plastic one wouldent stop leaking i found a aluminum one off a 94 YJ on ebay for $12 so i grabed it. The front CCV port is a 3/8 NPT fitting and the rear is a 1" hole. I'm going to stick a chrome chevy type filter in the rear intake hole. so i won't have any plastic lines to crack fall apart. Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted February 2, 2007 Author Share Posted February 2, 2007 Had the local stereo shop install my system I ended up switching from a Power Akoustic amp to a JBL amp with 4 gauge wire instead of 8. The second sub'll be installed in a month or two, and I have to get some baffles for behind the 6x9s to keep them safe from that bar in the door from the window :redX: blurry photo, but it's a normal Pioneer MP3 deck that I'll be replacing, hopefully with a deck that has GPS. shiny amp and randomly showing off my lighting , *snicker* Also got mi rims in. 15x8, 4" backspacing, 5 on 4.5, instead of the 15x8, 4.5" backspacing, drilled for both 5 on 4.5 and 5 on 5.5. Got em from Summit for $36.95 a piece, and $11.99 for each center cap, with free shipping, hat and stickers! Front axle is being taken care of on Friday at 8:00 in the AM, and the motor is getting signed off as good for the warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted February 8, 2007 Author Share Posted February 8, 2007 The good news: Rims are on... (I love the cemetary, but I feel awkward taking pictures there) The bad news: Head is cracked... The head was a fresh head with a 3 year, 36000 mile warranty, so the company that it was bought it from will be sending me a new one and paying $20/hr for me to install it, or $38/hr for a shop to install it. Wound up in some gumbo mud on accident today. Had mild tire spin through the whole ordeal, but nothing major, just tread cleaning. XTerrains get an 'A' for that! And the car wash got $5 for me to pressure wash everything I could touch water to. I hate mud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted February 8, 2007 Author Share Posted February 8, 2007 All the MPFI 2.5's had aluminum covers they are $120 from the dealer. $120!!! :nuts: Good deal on the $12 one though. Sould clean up/paint nicely! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 Wow, that head sure did crack! Good thing you've got the warantee... How much can you milk them for on the install? Book time? Can't be like "well, it took 5 days..." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted February 8, 2007 Author Share Posted February 8, 2007 Wow, that head sure did crack! Good thing you've got the warantee... How much can you milk them for on the install? Book time? Can't be like "well, it took 5 days..." Whatever Haynes/Chiltons lists, which I'm not sure, but seeing as I don't have a job right now, I'm almost happy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted February 8, 2007 Share Posted February 8, 2007 I'd drop the gear ratio down a notch for more power. To retard the timing (knock sensor controls a lot of that) you can slot the CPS mount and move the sensor slightly. Is this a fresh motor? If so, the power won't come up till the motor is broken in. Too bad you went with another 904 trans as they are power/fuel robbers. The later models ran AW4 with 4 cyl (starting late '88 I think) and the '94 YJ 4 cyl I had was a plastic cover engine (I was surprised because it didn't look like plastic) I stuck that motor into an '84 XJ but sold it when I sold my house before the EFI was installed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted February 8, 2007 Author Share Posted February 8, 2007 I'd drop the gear ratio down a notch for more power. To retard the timing (knock sensor controls a lot of that) you can slot the CPS mount and move the sensor slightly. Is this a fresh motor? If so, the power won't come up till the motor is broken in. Too bad you went with another 904 trans as they are power/fuel robbers. The later models ran AW4 with 4 cyl (starting late '88 I think) and the '94 YJ 4 cyl I had was a plastic cover engine (I was surprised because it didn't look like plastic) I stuck that motor into an '84 XJ but sold it when I sold my house before the EFI was installed. The truck was supposed to be a semi-restoration, so we kept the tranny the same. The only real alterations on the truck are the stereo and suspension. I'll have to try moving the CPS, we just installed the new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted February 10, 2007 Author Share Posted February 10, 2007 So, the truck went to the dealership today. My timing is fine! My rodknock isn't... Replacement for replacement motor coming soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenosha Warrior Posted February 10, 2007 Share Posted February 10, 2007 So, the truck went to the dealership today. My timing is fine! My rodknock isn't... Replacement for replacement motor coming soon. Ouch! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 Some of you may have read about my agonizingly slow acceleration, which I blame on a sensor that messes up my idle, too high of gearing, and a 904 transmission, but I recorded it with my digital camera. '55 MPH' is about equal to 60, and it only took 24 seconds! There's no audio, and it's a little shakey, but I was watching the road, not the camera. Not sure why I have that HUge flat spot at about 4k in 2nd gear. And my new axles. 4.56s from a Cherokee. Rear axle has a damaged diff cover and no left axle or brakes, and the front axle is missing the vaccuum disconnect, but they were $80 each so I'll reuse my old accesories. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted March 7, 2007 Author Share Posted March 7, 2007 A quote from this months "Off-Road Adventure", in the article "Finessing the Jeep Cherokee XJ -- Part 2: Drivetrain": "The Chrysler Torqueflite 904 automatics, later known as the 30RH ('92-96) and 32RH ('97-00), were optional behind the fours through 2000 (the last year for the four) and the V6 to '86. If you want to experience slow, drive a four-cylinder automatic Cherokee. These are relatively strong transmissions, though the lack of an overdrive is a downside for a street machine. The 30RH and 32RH are slightly stronger than the 904." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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