GirsMJ86 Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Other than the original post in my '91 Eliminator thread it isn't anywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 Okay then. I'll keep linking folks to the thread then. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 If you want a direct link to that post, you can click the #1 in the username bar and use that link. It's still this thread in the end but ensures it goes to post #1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted September 23, 2013 Share Posted September 23, 2013 By some freak accident, I already had it that way!! It will work fine. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RochesterMJ Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Thats a nice write up! Ā Thanks GirsMJ86! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 Thats a nice write up! Ā Thanks GirsMJ86! Sure thing, glad to be of service.Ā :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted December 22, 2013 Share Posted December 22, 2013 Ā on my 87 comanche if i were to do that flip on my CAD, and just plug the three vacuum lines there and leave them hooked at the t-case switch, would the vacuum still run the light in the cab Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 so how do you keep the fork in 4wd position with the c-clips? my fork moves back and forth freely wasnt hard at all, but in the future when i want to keep the front engaged id like to know how? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 Take a look at the pics a little closer. You remove c-clip, slide fork, put c-clip back, and bolt it back together, after sliding the sleeve over of course. Or you just place the cover back on upside down after sliding the sleeve over, I prefer the way I did it though. Ā Don't reattach the vac lines and you're good. Just remember to cap the lines so you don't have a leak. Ā If you're saying your fork moves freely with the c-clip still there, then it sounds like you have problems because it shouldn't move at all. Grab a new CAD at the JY or replace the axle with a non-CAD version or just the two piece axle shaft with a single piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 well the fork moves easily is a better statement, i manually moved the fork back and forth and i could hear the air in the diaphram being pushed. so u take the c-clip off and slide the fork over to lock without the rod moving and put the clip back in so the fork isnt sitting in its orginal postion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 so u take the c-clip off and slide the fork over to lock without the rod moving and put the clip back in so the fork isnt sitting in its orginal postion Correct. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 alright cool, as of right now its working fine, my truck was originally 2wd, transferred it myself and once i had the vacuum situation figured out it was working fine going in and out sitting still or going down the road. then it started taking forever to engage sometimes had to stop and go through the gears before it would kick in so i was going to do this lock. but after i tore into it and saw all the sludge in CAD like horrible gritty stuff, the diaphragm ports were about closed with grime, and the green line running into the side of the diaphragm was plugged with dirt.cleaned all that stuff and made sure vacuum was working its been fine. Ā thanks allot for the help by the way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 23, 2013 Share Posted December 23, 2013 Got a light?Ā Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 do you mean the 4wd light in the cab? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 Yeah. I thought that was extremely important to you.Ā Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 yep its working, not extremely important, just hear that allot of them don't work, my dads comanches never came on when he transferred them to 4wd, so when i got mine to come on after some vac. line re-routing i was stoked, had to call him up and brag lol. one thing when i romp on the throttle the light goes out, then come backs on when i let off. it only does it then, just giving it normal throttle is fine light stays on. vacuum problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 yep its working, not extremely important, just hear that allot of them don't work, my dads comanches never came on when he transferred them to 4wd, so when i got mine to come on after some vac. line re-routing i was stoked, had to call him up and brag lol. one thing when i romp on the throttle the light goes out, then come backs on when i let off. it only does it then, just giving it normal throttle is fine light stays on. vacuum problem? Ā You could put a check valve in the line to the vacuum operated electric switch.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 what will that do?Ā Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 It would make it so the decrease in vac when you stomp on the throttle would not take away from the light switch. Of course I also wonder if that would make it so the light would not go back off even after shifting out of 4wd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 i was thinking that myself, but its worth a try i suppose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 The light is unnecessary as the lever and indicator in the cab tell where you're at anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 The light also tells you when 4x4 disengages, no? I mostly use 4x4 to keep my front wheels from locking at icy stops. I stop, put it back in 2wd, but the light won't go out and I'm still in 4x4 until I pull away and let it coast. I'm told that's normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted December 24, 2013 Share Posted December 24, 2013 The light also tells you when 4x4 disengages, no? I mostly use 4x4 to keep my front wheels from locking at icy stops. I stop, put it back in 2wd, but the light won't go out and I'm still in 4x4 until I pull away and let it coast. I'm told that's normal? Ā It tells you when the CAD disengages.Ā Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blaine Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 The light also tells you when 4x4 disengages, no? I mostly use 4x4 to keep my front wheels from locking at icy stops. I stop, put it back in 2wd, but the light won't go out and I'm still in 4x4 until I pull away and let it coast. I'm told that's normal? yea its takes a minute for the splines to line up for the collar to move over.if it takes a long time and you have to go through the gears before it goes in check the vac lines down by the front axle for dirt and stuff that would plug it, check the air ports on the CAD diaphragm itself. and make sure the gear oil in the CAD is actually oil not nasty gunky sludge like mine was. if you have to many problems you can lock the collar so the front is engaged, all you have to do is engage the transfer caseĀ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted December 25, 2013 Share Posted December 25, 2013 I've got a one-piece shaft in the cad housing. It's temporary until I can swap in a non-cad axle. But if I pull up in 4x4, put it back in 2wd, I can still spin the fronts. It won't disengage until I'm moving and let off the gas. Should I look into that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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