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Oil filter housing and O ring Replacement


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Finally finished the housing overhaul and O ring replacement today. This is one of the common places our I6 engines loves to leak from, and once you get the adapter off it's a easy repair. I would have posted pictures of the actual work, but everything was oily and, well, I couldn't turn on the camera because of it.

 

Anyway some tips for the ones who are going to do this job:

 

1) Jack up the jeep - high. Use jack stands under the rail.

 

2) Drain the oil and remove the filter.

 

3) Remove the positive starter wire and it's hold down bracket from the side of the block - it's in the way and probably oily anyway. Remove the oil pressure sensor wire and sensor.

 

4) Note the left frame rail is in the way and a rachet and socket will not fit to remove the adapter. I used a Great Neck T-60 3/8 inch socket with a 12MM racheting combination wrench.

 

(Some articles about this suggest an S&K socket that has an allen screw holding the bit in - you can remove the socket body leaving the bit, but that socket lists for $21.00 - Great Neck socket was $3.49).

 

5) Put the combination wrench over the socket like this:

 

and then slide on a 'cheater bar' - I used 1 1/4 inch galvanized pipe with a 12'" section and an 8" section.

 

6) Seat the socket in the flat head screw and.....loosen it. Loosening the flat head screw that holds the adapter on is a task. At one point I was up under the Jeep with one foot braced on the cheater bar and the other on the axle. When it finally came free it released with an audible snapping sound (I about crapped my pants thinking I'd snapped the screw!). Once loosened it should turn out by hand.

 

The block has a pin that aligns the filter adaper in the correct position. Note that pin's location on the adaper for when you re-install it.

 

7) Clean everything well, including the mating face on the block. Be prepared to take a bath in oil droplets!

 

8 ) Although you can get O ring sets from your local auto parts store, I got them at Mopar Online parts for $3.49 (shipping was $8.90 - go figure!). The rings should be lubricated with clean oil before install, and be careful you don't nick them when you roll the two smaller ones over the flat head screw.

 

9) Re-install the adaper and filter, then add engine oil.

 

10) Check for leaks.

 

Hope this helps and Good Luck! :D

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Great. I used a T60 that looks like a hex wrench. And I bought a foot long piece of black pipe at Lowes for about $2 to use for a cheater. I buy the o-rings from the local dealer for $5 and some change, and get them the next day. Sooo, if yours is leaking, get out there and fix it. :cheers:

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OK It is Sunday so I will keep the cursing to a minimum. Friday I ordered the 3 O-ring set Mopar #33002970K from Just Jeeps for about $7.00 Canadian. Picked them up and find they are part #4720-363 which is for 93-98 4.0L Mine is a 91. The parts guy says It has been superceeded by this 363 number,and I believed him. :nuts: Since I had just changed the oil I didn't empty the pan. After cleaning most of the mess near the filter adapter and removing the filter, I find the bolt is a 16mm hex head which came off with no effort. Maybe tightening would have done the job but I had the new rings. The large o-ring fits but the other two are nowhere close. So into the odds & ends box I find the small one to fit midway on the bolt and get the mid size one (1 3/8 ex-large) at Can Tire for 80c. I will put it on tomorrow. Many thanks to those who posted how to do the job on earlier threads. Gord

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Can someone post the actual sizes of the o-rings so others don't have to go to the Stealership?

 

I can measure the old ones, but I'd hesitate to use just 'any old O ring" as the pressure and heat there might casuse premature failure. The new rings also seemed larger in diameter then regular rings.

 

I'll measure them tonight and post tomorrow

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I recently just did this job and it didn't take all what you wrote and I didn't even drain the oil and no special fab up tool to remove? it was quite easy.

 

I bought the kit from Autoquest for something like $5.00 came with all the O-ring and adapters universal kit.

I took a picture of the O-rings the kit was missing one O-ring might have worked if stretched? :dunno:

 

Picture on left side shows actual O-rings from adapter.

 

Image Not Found

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This is probably a good time to do a rear main too, huh?

 

There are lots of great articles on here about doing the rear main without removing the transmission. Although 87commanche indicated he was able to accomplish the O-ring replacement without draining the oil, I would imagine draining it would be neater, and would be absolutely necessary to do the rear main seal.

 

Most of the articles I have read suggest draining the oil the night before and letting the remaining oil drip out all night, as you will be oily when the oil pan is removed to access the crank caps.

 

Good luck!

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This is probably a good time to do a rear main too, huh?

 

There are lots of great articles on here about doing the rear main without removing the transmission. Although 87commanche indicated he was able to accomplish the O-ring replacement without draining the oil, I would imagine draining it would be neater, and would be absolutely necessary to do the rear main seal.

 

Most of the articles I have read suggest draining the oil the night before and letting the remaining oil drip out all night, as you will be oily when the oil pan is removed to access the crank caps.

 

Good luck!

 

Yeah, I'd do both at the same time just to simplify the task. Good idea on letting the oil drain overnight.

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I recently just did this job and it didn't take all what you wrote and I didn't even drain the oil and no special fab up tool to remove? it was quite easy.

 

As far as the oil drain...removing the full oil filter must have been great fun. As far as the cheater bar, I imagine it would depend on whether the adapter was on the engine at the torque it is supposed to be. Mine had never been removed since new.

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After I did this fix my oil pressure reads almost 70 was working perfectly before I did this, now it just peg at 70 I tried unplugging the wire to the sensor to see what it does pegs the needle all the way forward, so no open wire or anything. Any idea's what might of happen? Gauges needle doesn't move at all just stays at 70? :dunno:

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After I did this fix my oil pressure reads almost 70 was working perfectly before I did this, now it just peg at 70 I tried unplugging the wire to the sensor to see what it does pegs the needle all the way forward, so no open wire or anything. Any idea's what might of happen? Gauges needle doesn't move at all just stays at 70? :dunno:

 

Not really sure - Don's the guage expert around here...but just for grins and giggles I went out and unpluged mine and started her up....mine needle never moved off the bottom peg (when it usually jumps up to 65-70 when cold).

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After I did this fix my oil pressure reads almost 70 was working perfectly before I did this, now it just peg at 70 I tried unplugging the wire to the sensor to see what it does pegs the needle all the way forward, so no open wire or anything. Any idea's what might of happen? Gauges needle doesn't move at all just stays at 70? :dunno:

 

You might want to post that in Tech so more guys see it. :thumbsup:

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For the O-rings you do not need to go to the Stealership. when I worked for NAPA I bought a kit for this problem. it's like a 3 pc o-ring kit . i call and get the felpro# for you guys

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