mvusse Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 The bolt on SOA kit will only work with MJ rear axles. XJ axles are already SOA, but the perches are in the wrong spot. 4.10 XJ axles are 100 times easier to find than 4.10 MJ axles, as there are very few MJs in junk yards. XJs are everywhere, Sell the bolt on SOA kit, buy an XJ axle, then after you have the axle and know the diameter (35, 44 and 8.25 are all different, don't waste money on a 35) buy weld on perches and shock mounts. A welding shop should not charge more than $25 or $30 tops to weld the perches and shock mounts on. You can cut the old stuff off yourself with an angle grinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunl Posted April 30, 2009 Author Share Posted April 30, 2009 That sounds like a good plan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunl Posted May 13, 2009 Author Share Posted May 13, 2009 Okay, I did look....but would YJ axles from a 2.5l work? Or is it a huge pain to swap them in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 13, 2009 Share Posted May 13, 2009 The rear would simply require new perches added in the MJ spots. Front would be a pain since the YJ is leaf sprung and you'd need to transfer all of the MJ bracketry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunl Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 Okay, another shopping update. In order to keep you from reading backwards, I have this so far: sway bar drop brackets Rocky Road tubular gusseted lower control arms, greasable urethane bushings for 3-6" inch lifts. Rough Country adjustable track bar Rough Country or Rocky Road (can't remember) bolt- on SPOA kit I have an opportunity to pick up this: 1. t-case drop brackets(no bolts)-$20 Off my XJ....no vibrations with 6" lift 2.brand spankin new Rubicon Express 4.5" coils. (powdercoated silver) with 225lbs sring rate. I paid $230new your price of $185 3.Lower control arms from Rusty's Offroad. 1.5 years old. Bushings in great shape. Beefy dom tubing . $90 4. 2" spacers from Daystar. $20 5. 4.5"-6" Rough country shocks or Rusty's front shocks(your choice) -$50 Disclaimer: please remember with pricing, that shipping things in from the States is a huge hassle up here, brokerage charges, shipping charges, etc. etc. And it's usually either that, or pay someone to fab it all. Look like a good deal? Anything I need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJA814 Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 In my opinion (probably not worth much haha) 1. Transfer case drop not needed 2. I've seen NEW coils much cheaper. I just bought RC 6.5" coils for $130 from my local dist. I know everyone says RE is real nice, but after buying a used 4.5" RE lift with tweaked coils, I just can't see spending $50 more for used coils. Especially if they have been run with control arms that weren't designed for that lift (assuming fixed control arms and previous owner ran 4.5" coils AND the spacers like mine was) 3. You have control arms already? 4. Just get the right sized coils....spacers are a pain 5. Worth it depending on condition. I know it probably sounds like everyone is preaching to do things the "right way" but it's because we've all been there. I've been building my truck on a budget too. As others have said, buy parts slowly, look for whole donor vehicle you can make money off, and don't take shortcuts on the important things like suspension, brakes, etc. You can still enjoy the truck while you aquire your lift parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Whats wrong with the bolt in SOA brakets? It looks to me that the bolt in kits would have less axle wrap issues on a SOA then a normal weld in perch. my bolt in perches are 9" long were my stock xj perches are only about 4". why not use the bolt in kit and just put 4.10s in the mj axle? then just put a 4.10 xj axle in the front. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunl Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 In my opinion (probably not worth much haha) Every opinion counts....otherwise, we'd never figure out who the idiots are. :D 1. Transfer case drop not needed But for $20....probably worth it in my opinion. 2. I've seen NEW coils much cheaper. I just bought RC 6.5" coils for $130 from my local dist. I know everyone says RE is real nice, but after buying a used 4.5" RE lift with tweaked coils, I just can't see spending $50 more for used coils. Especially if they have been run with control arms that weren't designed for that lift (assuming fixed control arms and previous owner ran 4.5" coils AND the spacers like mine was) Yup, I see your point. BUT I'm in Canada, there's fewer of us up here and fewer rigs around...we kinda take what we can get, or pay through the nose to ship them here. 3. You have control arms already? Rear control arms for the bolt on kit. 4. Just get the right sized coils....spacers are a pain Again, availability, and how are they a pain? 5. Worth it depending on condition. I know it probably sounds like everyone is preaching to do things the "right way" but it's because we've all been there. I've been building my truck on a budget too. As others have said, buy parts slowly, look for whole donor vehicle you can make money off, and don't take shortcuts on the important things like suspension, brakes, etc. You can still enjoy the truck while you aquire your lift parts. I'm not looking for a cheap way out, but I've been around enough to know that sometimes for people there is only ONE right way. Thanks for the advice, and like I said, every opinion counts - discard nothing. So all in all....worth it, eh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 The t-case drop is unnecessary in an MJ and kills an inch of ground clearance. Save your money. Make sure your control arms are sized to the lift you're going for. There's a relationship between the two that determines your caster and the tire's location in the wheelwell. Don't forget, at that much lift you'll be wanting uppers too. This person better be able to produce receipts for anything they say they purchased new. Whats wrong with the bolt in SOA brackets? Mega money and it means re-using a Dana 35 for what I'm assuming will be big tires. why not use the bolt in kit and just put 4.10s in the mj axle? then just put a 4.10 xj axle in the front. Is he capable of setting up gears? They aren't just "bolted in 'n go". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 Its not that hard to set up gears,and it doesnt cost that much to have it done. If you supply a used gearset the labor isnt that much,you just may not get a warranty. The bolt in SOA kits are under $200 and besides he already has it. My bolt in kit works with the Dana35 or Dana44 you just modify(grind) the spring pad a little for the larger axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunl Posted June 26, 2009 Author Share Posted June 26, 2009 Yes, I have the bolt in kit already, and I was thinking of looking at the SOA kit to see if grinding to fit a 44 would be do-able. Figured bolt-in then probably welded anyway (I know enough guys that I could get someone to do it for me). Setting up gears is a black art to me....kinda like brakes...you wanna know what you're doing for sure. :yes: I know I'll need uppers...just haven't come across them yet. Thanks for the tip on sizing them. The rears came with the SOA kit, and I'll check the fronts. :) So why is a transfer case drop on an MJ a waste of time and money? Wouldn't it help to keep the driveline angles corrected? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted June 26, 2009 Share Posted June 26, 2009 It makes the front angle worse, and the wheel base of the MJ is long enough to not need that kind of correction unless you're going stupid high. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunl Posted June 26, 2009 Author Share Posted June 26, 2009 That makes sense. I might grab it anyway, for future trades. lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunl Posted June 27, 2009 Author Share Posted June 27, 2009 Got another question for you guys....I'd like to find an XJ with 4.10 axles for it. Any disadvantage to putting in 4.56 axles? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted June 27, 2009 Share Posted June 27, 2009 Depends on how big tire you're running and if it'll see street time. For an off road only rig, the lowest you can go is usually best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunl Posted June 27, 2009 Author Share Posted June 27, 2009 Hoping to go with 32 or 33's. Oh, and street time, but probably not much highway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunl Posted June 28, 2009 Author Share Posted June 28, 2009 Can someone confirm for me (I think this is correct), that a 1988 Cherokee with the 2.5l 4 cylinder auto with a tow package should have a rear Dana 44 and 4.56 gearing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJA814 Posted June 28, 2009 Share Posted June 28, 2009 From Jeep Forum: Gearing 3.07 - used with 4.0L engine / manual transmission 3.31 - only available on older (pre87?) 2 door XJs with "Fuel Economy" package 3.55 - used with 4.0L engine / automatic transmission 3.73 - found in some XJs with the towing package 4.10 - used with 2.5L engine usually, and older XJs with the "Off-Highway Vehicle" package. 4.56 - rare but can be found on some older (~ 89 ~) models with 2.5L engine and auto transmission Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunl Posted June 28, 2009 Author Share Posted June 28, 2009 Saw the same thing on Wikipedia, but I wanted to make sure it was correct. Nothing worse that purchasing a parts rig with the wrong parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJA814 Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 You're going to have to physically check them to be sure. Thats a very rare gear ratio, so you can't be sure based on just the options, engine, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunl Posted June 29, 2009 Author Share Posted June 29, 2009 Okay, but it'd have the 4.10's for sure, right? They're really what I'm after, but if it had 4.56's, that'd be even better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 Nothing is for sure. For all you know someone swapped in replacement axles and either; 1:used something stupid like 3.07s, or 2: mixed ratios. If you're getting axles from a yard or getting a donor vehicle, you should really check the ratio. You can do this without pulling the cover, but you need a jack to pop a wheel up off the ground, and turn the D.S. by hand and count how many rotations it takes to turn the wheel once. I can't remember if it's double or half the ratio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunl Posted June 29, 2009 Author Share Posted June 29, 2009 Good point, Genovast. :chillin: It's LOOKS completely bone stock, so hopefully they are the 4.10's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnkyboy Posted June 29, 2009 Share Posted June 29, 2009 From Jeep Forum: Gearing 3.07 - used with 4.0L engine / manual transmission 3.31 - only available on older (pre87?) 2 door XJs with "Fuel Economy" package 3.55 - used with 4.0L engine / automatic transmission 3.73 - found in some XJs with the towing package 4.10 - used with 2.5L engine usually, and older XJs with the "Off-Highway Vehicle" package. 4.56 - rare but can be found on some older (~ 89 ~) models with 2.5L engine and auto transmission Also 2.5L 4spds came with 3.55s Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted July 2, 2009 Share Posted July 2, 2009 No ratio chart is ever complete. :shake: The easier (and cleaner way) to determine the ratio is to put the trans or t-case in neutral, jack up one rear tire and rotate the tire around twice and count how many times the driveshaft turns (if it has a posi rear, then jack up both and rotate them once). 3 and a half times is 3.55, 4 times is 4.10, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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