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Problem adjusting/removing tie rod (pic)


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I have pretty bad toe-in and decided to lengthen the tie rod myself. The collars came off easy enough, but the rod won't turn at all ... it just won't budge. So decided to just take the whole thing out and use a vise. I took the castle nut off the drivers side TRE, but thats where I'm stuck. I don't know what to do next .... nothing budges. This is my frist time messing with the tie rod, so any help woule be appreciated.

 

IMG_1891.jpg

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I would soak the threads on the TREs with PB every couple hours for a day and then try again.

 

I had to get a vice grips on mine and tap it with a hammer a few times to get it going, then it just turned really hard, because the wheels were on the ground.(I hope you're not adjusting with the wheels off)

 

You can get the TRE out with one of these, but it'll wreck the boot and it's just way more work than it's worth.

silvballjointsplit245041.jpg

 

I would hope it's obvious to NOT hit the TRE with a hammer. :rotfl2:

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Why is it bad to adjust with the tires off? I pre-measured and know exactly how much to adjust.

 

And why shouldn't I hit the threads (and which ones do you mean) with a hammer?

 

Sorry for the beginner questions, but this is the first time I've messed with a tie rod.

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The measurements can be tricky, since remember the front and back moves when you adjust it. You can move it most of the way with the tires off, but be sure to double check once the wheels are back on and the truck is supporting itself, so the suspension is at ride compression, and you'll probably have to do some minute adjustments after that.

 

If you start wailing on the top of it like it's in the picture, you'll mush the hell out of the threads and the nut will never go back on right.

 

As Pete would say, no apologizing for questions. :no:

:thumbsup:

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And why shouldn't I hit the threads (and which ones do you mean) with a hammer?

 

Because if you hit the threads with a hammer, you won't be able to put the nut back on.

 

Just give it a few good hits like this:

 

balljoint-4.jpg

 

 

EXACTLY!!

 

Something else that's works great. look at the pic showing where to strike the knuckle with the hammer. Now go get an additional hammer. Pretend your going to strike the two hammer faces together, only put the knuckle between them and hammer away. It should only take 4-5 good solid strikes and that TRE will "pop" right out.

 

I gotta tell you thou, I don't see how your going to get any more leverage to turn the tie rod than with the TRE's attached to the knuckles. Spray them down really good using a GOOD penetrating oil. NOT WD-40, that is NOT a penetrating oil. Get PB-Blaster, Kroil, Break free , Freeze-off or something like recommended @ the parts store should suffice. Now get a stilson /monkey wrench of appropriate size. I haven't seen one yet that will not succumb to this kind of adjustment. Yes I have done this one or two times. :D :shake: :shake:

 

CW

 

Good luck,

CW

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I have also HEARD of putting a bottle jack under the end of the monkey wrench and using the jack to get the required pressure to start it turning.

 

I use this when installing/removing control arms from the axle. But the wrench is on the axle tube.(A much bigger part.)

 

Be careful if you try this as you will be able to exert enough force to twist the tie-rod. That much force should not be required. Spray, brush with wire wheel/wire brush and wait. Try again later after the penetrating oil has had a chance to work. You can try heat and cold to shock it but be careful not to go too far as you will temper the steel and it could become too soft. Avoid "cherry red" when heating.

 

CW

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You can get the TRE out with one of these, but it'll wreck the boot and it's just way more work than it's worth.

 

I've got a couple of wrecked rubber boots caused by a pickle fork. Are these things available separately somewhere, like in the "HELP" section of the parts chain stores? I've never seen them...........

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Success!! I let the PB sit over night, whacked the knuckle a couple times, then tapped the bolt - it popped right out.

 

I called around to see about buying a new V8 ZJ rod and ends ... I'm now confused again.

 

The parts stores kept asking me if it was the right or the left tie rod. Then when I asked about the TREs they wanted to know inner or outer. I don't get it. I thought there was just one tie rod and two TREs. Maybe I don't really understand what a tie rod is. Any thoughts??

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Success!! I let the PB sit over night, whacked the knuckle a couple times, then tapped the bolt - it popped right out.

 

I called around to see about buying a new V8 ZJ rod and ends ... I'm now confused again.

 

The parts stores kept asking me if it was the right or the left tie rod. Then when I asked about the TREs they wanted to know inner or outer. I don't get it. I thought there was just one tie rod and two TREs. Maybe I don't really understand what a tie rod is. Any thoughts??

 

 

This is a better Tie Rod, and much stronger than one you'll get from a parts store, probably cheaper too. The part stores are probably calling the drag link a tie rod.

 

http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant ... e=IR-SHDTR

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The parts stores kept asking me if it was the right or the left tie rod. Then when I asked about the TREs they wanted to know inner or outer. I don't get it. I thought there was just one tie rod and two TREs. Maybe I don't really understand what a tie rod is. Any thoughts??

 

Hope this helps.

 

l_e3dcd2e8fe8b4d2ab1e632e02cb34d3e.jpg

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After talking to you today and thinking about it, had an hour drive home, they maybe asking about this due to the threads on the tie rod end. They are are threaded in opposite directions so when you turn them, both ends extend or collapse together, like a turnbuckle would.

Hope this helps some.

It was extremely nice to meet you today and good luck with your MJ :waving:

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They are threaded in opposite directions so when you turn them, both ends extend or collapse together, like a turnbuckle would.

 

I didn't know that - very helpful information!! Thanks.

 

I hope you enjoy the bumper ... dents, rust and all ;)

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After talking to you today and thinking about it, had an hour drive home, they maybe asking about this due to the threads on the tie rod end. They are are threaded in opposite directions so when you turn them, both ends extend or collapse together, like a turnbuckle would.

Hope this helps some.

It was extremely nice to meet you today and good luck with your MJ :waving:

 

Yup, that's why they need to know outer or inner... IIRC the outers are standard right-hand thread, inner is left-hand thread.

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You can get the TRE out with one of these, but it'll wreck the boot and it's just way more work than it's worth.

 

I've got a couple of wrecked rubber boots caused by a pickle fork. Are these things available separately somewhere, like in the "HELP" section of the parts chain stores? I've never seen them...........

 

Yes, but there hit and miss on the shelf, and some store you might need to order them, the better parts stores have a catalog of all the "Help" accessories, and can order from there.

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Yes, but there hit and miss on the shelf, and some store you might need to order them, the better parts stores have a catalog of all the "Help" accessories, and can order from there.

 

Thanks Bob. The boots in the YELP section in my local A-Zone were all too small, but I did find the Energy Suspension (part number 9.13101R) poly boots and replaced the split OEM boots today. They fit pretty well and hold the grease in, but they're RED - :ack: But they work fine. :D

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