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My project MJ


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i am rewiring my mj :no:

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four years ago i bought a ron francis wiring harness with some extras. the cost was $369 or $ 389.

it was for a cherokee i had. but this mj came up for sale with lots of extras so i bought it. now i'm on to the rewiring. pete wanted me to take pics and tell what i'm doing.

i will be adding to this as time goes on.

i debated how to start,but i finally ended up taking out the fuse panel an related wiring. i was careful

stay away from the computer stuff for now. also cleaning up the wiring in the engine compartment has proven to be a chore. will take a picture soon. i had also purchased gauges, so will add those later. right now is getting the lites and engine running. took the heater out, it didn't work well. will add a great heater i found, not mohave? . also later. this will be my only vehicle, i love to go prerunning different races and just in the desert. so all my up grades are geared that way.

a friend of mine is welding up a gas tank from [2] 15.5 gallon stainless steel beer kegs. it will be about 30 gallons. i have bought everything to change tanks but the fuel pump.

 

thought i would post a pic of the progress.Image Not Found

front lights done but turn signals. back lights labeled on the left side. ign ,turn signals, an a bunch of wires. lots of wires attached to panel. figured out computer, and computer check wires. i am drawing specific diagrams of the different systems. :banana:

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the fuse panel includes all the wiring ,panel instructions, fireresistant, you won't find wire like this stuff. i have looked for years in stores. he has it made up. the price as of two days ago for complete kit is $429.00 now.

you can see its colorcoated, numbered and the panel is color matched to the wire. they will make you a kit for the price. my cherokee was a 2.8 carb that i changed to a 3.1. yes i learn the hard way. you can now see why i jumped on the mj. so the wire kit was made for that, 2.8. has caused some :rant: :???: , but they have great service. they are going to get tired of my phone calls.

 

a friend of mine who builds circle track cars showed me the difference between painless and wireworks stuff.

there is a huge difference in quality. get what you pay for :yes:

 

i bought all electric gauges. summit racing, autometer hotrod pack. i friend gave me a autometer tach. electric speedo comes with the pack. so that way i'm set.

 

i have already cut the dash to accept 1/4 smoked plastic cut to fit around the opening where everything is.

 

if i don't screw up the hole cutting it will look great. yes i have hole saws.

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  • 2 weeks later...

here is a pic of the switch box. Image Not Found in front of it is the small console.

 

can someone take a picture of what it looked like in the stock position. and,or any ideas of how to make the console look good.

either something else or what to put underneath the console.

 

thanks

 

:dunno:

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How about putting in a full console and putting the switch box where the e-brake handle would be for an XJ, since the MJ has the e-brake on the floor that space isnt really used. You could trim the console insert and make it look factory with a little work.

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are you not running a dash?

 

also, it appears your fusebox is upside down/has the gauges facing the wrong way?

 

 

and...why on earth did you cut into the trans hump right there for that setup?!

you're gonna HATE it being there if you ever have to swap a trans.

 

Edit:

 

I take that last one back...thats a helluva optical illusion

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its pricey, but those "painless" kits are a pain in the @$$! u can never put hte wires were u want them coming out a the fuse block as there prewired in it. looks good.

From the little bit of research I did, and the experienced people I talked to, Ron Francis kits are the best you can get if you know what you're doing, and if you want to build your own harness. EZ and Painless are supposed to be the best if you want a prewired kit. I bought an EZ because they use the good GHX insulated wire, and everything is color coded, labeled every few inches, and already in the correct looms for front, dash, interior, and rear.

Your fuseblock looks good, and I think it was a good suggestion to put a full console in and switches where the ebrake was.

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i have the dash out to make the plate for the new gauges. also i wanted to see what the firewall looks like. and lastly, to see what could possibly cause leaks. i am going to take pictures of the firewall so everyone can see where the possibilities lie for leaks.

 

i still have the the water and vacuum gauges hooked up, and they are turned upside down next to the fuse panel. when i hook up the gauge wiring supplied by wireworks, and make the gauge panel, then it will look right.

 

 

i have called ron francis with questions and they have been great. each wire is separate so i can run it how and where i want. :yes: when i am done everything on the truck will be controlled by its own dedicated toggle switch. on its own fuse. no more combination fuse crap. :agree:

 

just had cataract surgery in one eye yesterday. in three weeks will have the other eye done. so i will work on the truck as i can.

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  • 2 weeks later...

getting close to finishing first stage of the wiring

 

thinking about how to mount the gauges.

 

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i'll be close to this. what do you all think?

 

will take a couple of new pics of the wiring later today.

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pic of the engine bay. there is a lot of work done here. changed the way the factory wiring was.

 

most of the wiring done here. waiting for start up with engine and lights before the making of

 

 

a clean set up.

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lots more hook ups done here. need to run back up, fuel pump wires and hook up the rest of the switches

 

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took a break and thought i would see if my idea to do gauges would work. any better ideas?

 

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need to center them better. then go to the plastic shop and have them cut the shape out. cut holes etc.

 

now back to the wiring. i need to decide where to put the ignition switch?

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  • 2 weeks later...

update:

tried the lights today. tail,brake,parking lights work. the toggle switches worked. :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

 

turn signals are hooked up as per directions but a wire isn't right. the directions have a mistake so will call ron francis monday.

i hooked the front parking light to be a turn signal and that works. its great to be buttoning

everything up. bulbs etc.

 

with the motor; finishing the fuel pump wiring, then i think its good to go.

i turned the key to find prestart and it cranks, thats good.

 

when it runs, going to get rid of useless wires in engine bay, than will take photo of engine bay, passenger side.

then its cleaning up the wires inside to look good.

:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:

 

i was really worried about all this redo working. so i'm glad for the progress.

:rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

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eureka :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

 

turn signals work.

 

in order for the new turn signal indicators to work they said i needed to wire a three prong flasher up instead of the panels two prong.

so i bought a brand new three prong flasher and a holder. wired them up. when the flashers didn't work, we decided to buy a new flasher. did so. installed it. still didn't work. when i called ron francis they told me how to dewire the three prong and use the two prong. thats when it worked. i bought one flasher from napa and one from kenecks? auto stores. what are the odds. so screw it. i'm leaving as is.

my first complete wiring job and if works.

 

RON FRANCIS IS THE MAN! :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

 

need to get a electric speedo wire next. tomorrow i cut the holes in my $61.00 piece of plastic for the dash. no mistakes

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