Gr8plainsDriftr Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 Hi all, been reading the post here for a while, now its time to share I hope no one minds the white door and rust too much, had a busted window, and whent ahead an bought 2 cherokee doors from a JY cuz i didnt want anymore water in there and figure id build some half doors later on. Now i gotta figure out what to do with the power windows with no switches lol. Then ill trim the fenders and get rid of the rust along with putting diamond tread on the bottom I traded it for a 95 2wd chevy 1/2ton with 3xxk miles. I was tired of it, and wanted 4x4 so i can take the banshee out. I started wheelin back in highschool with a suzuki samurai that i built *3" lift, tires, thats about it, and it took me everywhere i pointed it* Now you can't find them for under $2000. i shouldnt have ever let it go. oh well. The 'manche idles with a bad miss on cylinder 1. changed the spark plugs to copper champs which are the only ones that seem to work, and the plug cables, o2 sensor, i checked the TPS sensor, and i can't seem to get a voltage read from it, on the sensor, B-ground, A-i get no reading. does this mean my TPS is bad? I can't find my CPS to check. would it even run without it? anyone know what this connector is to? Cleaned the grounds, but they werent very bad, didnt change anything. anyone near the wichita area want to help me diagnose this, then do some off road testing? Theres an aussie locker for 230 (good deal?) on the craigslist, id like to pick it up, but id rather get it running right first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KYMJ Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 Nothing a rattlecan paintjob won't fix. I vote olive drab. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 Welcome to the Club... :cheers: Your CPS is located in the 11 o'clock position on the transmission bellhousing right where it bolts to the block. Kind of tough to see and get to, but the plug for it should be easy to see and reach from the top back near the firewall. If you are talking about a used Aussie Locker for $230 - no, that is not a good deal. They sell for $239 new. You can try a couple things in the misfiring cylinder to determine what is causing it. Unplug the fuel injector wire while it's running and unplug the spark plug and see if either makes a difference. You may want to do a compression check as well. Mine had a rough idle/misfire as-well-as a slight tapping noise that turned out to be a broken valve spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 Your truck may have been converted from an auto to a stick. That square connector looks like a TPS feed to the trans controller. Renix TPS's for auto have a square and a flat connector coming off of them. One for engine, one for trans. A TPS wouldn't really affect just one cylinder. You need to do the basics. Compression, leakdown, check for good spark and maybe swap injectors between cylinders. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gr8plainsDriftr Posted April 11, 2009 Author Share Posted April 11, 2009 It says brand new in box, i think i can pick up a cherokee for about the same... extra parts? Also checked the coolant temp sensor, and it is fine EGR valve is not sticking, But i have those other sensors to check (MAP, MAT, IAC, EGR solenoid) ill be checking and updating this thread often for my own, memory :nuts: Its missing on cylinder 1, and backfiring into the intake (i can feel/hear it when i blip the throttle when I'm under the hood) When i drive it, it pulls ok once over ~1500RPM, kinda expecting more, but it idles rough, And just today it developed what sounds like a valve tick after i moved my injector wires off the exhaust manifold. maybe a Leak, but ive been workin on this truck for the past week weather permitting, and didnt hear this noise among all the other noises before. I think the timing must of jumped? (cylinder closest to radiator at TDC, rotor bug should be close to 5 o'clock correct?) I've done a compression test, 150-140-145-133-141-125 but at the end, the battery was almost completely dead, and didnt crank much. first try it fired up and i shut it off quick, and gauge showed 180psi, so i think the 125 was because the battery wasnt cranking as well as when i had started. Also checked fuel pressure, 39psi key off, 41 key on engine off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 Check the timing. Timing is not adjustable on the 4.0L, but there was an issue with "indexing" the distributor. There was a TSB out that explained how to re-index if it was off, but I don't know if that TSB is even available any longer. I believe it only applied to the Renix years. Did you check the impedence of the plug wires? If they're old, they may be fubar. The original plug wires aren't really "wires." They are a synthetic filament with carbon embedded in the weave for conductivity. Over the years, the wires get bent, twisted and knocked around, and the carbon can get displaced. That leaves gaps, and the spark may have difficulty jumping the gaps. New plug wires are cheap from Auto Zone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gr8plainsDriftr Posted April 11, 2009 Author Share Posted April 11, 2009 yea, i have replaced the wires with some from autozone. I have a strong feeling it is time to index the timing. and as far as lining up the oil pump :dunno: thats the only part I'm having trouble understanding. just stick a screwdriver down there and turn it until the distributor meshes in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aemsee Posted April 11, 2009 Share Posted April 11, 2009 The best way to set the timing is to use an old dist cap and cut a window out of it at the #1 plug terminal. Install the cap and roate the crank until the timing mark is at TDC # 1. The rotor should be at the number 1 terminal with the tail of the rotor lined up with the terminal in the cap. If it is not lined up, take out the dist bolt and remove the tabs that keep the dist from rotating, then you can adjust the dist to where it needs to be. If it is just cyl 1 that is the problem, it may be something other than the timing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted April 12, 2009 Share Posted April 12, 2009 If it is just cyl 1 that is the problem, it may be something other than the timing. That was my thought too. If the timing was out...there would be trouble on more than just one cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gr8plainsDriftr Posted April 14, 2009 Author Share Posted April 14, 2009 :wall: I'm frustrated now, dizzy is indexed properly, fired it up, idled nice. hmm, took it around the block, it got to operating temp and sounded like poo again, then started to fog the neighborhood. not black smoke, and smells sweet kinda.. head gasket :headpop: theres a guy here in town selling a 96 GC zj, no frontend sheet metal, good drive train. is this swap fairly uncomplicated? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 To answer one of your original questions - Like someone said earlier, that square connector is for the transmission controller/computer if you had an auto in the truck. I also have that connector on my '88 4.0L 5-speed and it's just dangling next to the throttle body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 theres a guy here in town selling a 96 GC zj, no frontend sheet metal, good drive train. is this swap fairly uncomplicated? The physical changing of hte motors is not hard, but making all the later model electronics work is going to be a pretty tough job...at least to someone like me that knows VERY little about electronics. Going to an HO set-up from Renix is a nightmare that I would not want to get in to. I would much rather just pull the head and repair the problem. Not a terribly difficult job, and definitely much easier than a complete swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 theres a guy here in town selling a 96 GC zj, no frontend sheet metal, good drive train. is this swap fairly uncomplicated? The physical changing of hte motors is not hard, but making all the later model electronics work is going to be a pretty tough job...at least to someone like me that knows VERY little about electronics. Going to an HO set-up from Renix is a nightmare that I would not want to get in to. I would much rather just pull the head and repair the problem. Not a terribly difficult job, and definitely much easier than a complete swap. Why not just take the entire wiring harness and associated electronics/sensors from the '96 ZJ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted April 15, 2009 Share Posted April 15, 2009 theres a guy here in town selling a 96 GC zj, no frontend sheet metal, good drive train. is this swap fairly uncomplicated? The physical changing of hte motors is not hard, but making all the later model electronics work is going to be a pretty tough job...at least to someone like me that knows VERY little about electronics. Going to an HO set-up from Renix is a nightmare that I would not want to get in to. I would much rather just pull the head and repair the problem. Not a terribly difficult job, and definitely much easier than a complete swap. Why not just take the entire wiring harness and associated electronics/sensors from the '96 ZJ? Because it doesn't stop there. You will have to do some major wiring work to adapt the dash, fuel pump, lights, and everything about the truck to the newer style harness. It's not just changing the engine electronics when you do something like this...you have to consider almost every part of the trucks wiring, unfortunately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gr8plainsDriftr Posted April 16, 2009 Author Share Posted April 16, 2009 so taking off the head and replacing the gaskets and valves and machine work would be cheaper than buying the zj ($400) and putting the short block in place inorder to keep it renix? ill have to use my intake and exhaust manifolds correct? what about the cts being up front now? since I'm already here, what else will i change? i will be searching the forums i think i like my chances with zj. i could part out the rest and make some money back. zj seats anyone? oh you need a 42re? need a replacement np249? what is that xfercase like? I'm goin to be doin mostly foul weather, back roads, and dunes, occasional tral (tuttle creek) nah, just rather keep my trusty command trac sorry, i got sidetracked with the other thread thanks for the replys, i think olive matte with the white army star would look cool CC style, but clear coated to make it pretty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 If it runs fine until it warms up it could be the O2 sensor. It will run on a set of presets until it warms up then it will use the info from the O2 sensor, if the O2 sensor is bad it could be causing it to run rich. Is that plug up near the radiator? It looks like the plug for the elec fan, if you don't have AC then you won't have the fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gr8plainsDriftr Posted May 3, 2009 Author Share Posted May 3, 2009 so i bought the 95 zj, and havent brought it here yet, but i started to get everything out of the way in order to get the engine out. i took out the distributor, and behind it i see the ground shows bare wires! the insulation had turned into play-dough crap. http://www.flickr.com/photos/34156492@N ... otostream/ could that have been the cause of the misfire and crappy running? the oil was dirty but not contaminated with gas, and i had slowly but surely loosing oil pressure, and iwas thinking it was fuel thinning out the oil. i expected the oil to come out really "watery", but it came out normal. i hope i can still put the donor to good use. also, the throttle body on the zj is 180* compared to my renix... i think. it could just be what everyones been talking bout, retro fitting the TPS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 My ground wire on one of my MJs is the same way - haven't gotten around to replacing it yet, but the truck runs fine. I doubt a little bit of missing wire insulation is going to cause any noticeable issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chicofuentes0224 Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 My ground wire on one of my MJs is the same way - haven't gotten around to replacing it yet, but the truck runs fine. I doubt a little bit of missing wire insulation is going to cause any noticeable issues. I disagree. Though it might not solve the OP's problem I think anything being wrong with any ground wire on these trucks affect it. Changing one ground on mine made a huge difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terrawombat Posted May 3, 2009 Share Posted May 3, 2009 My ground wire on one of my MJs is the same way - haven't gotten around to replacing it yet, but the truck runs fine. I doubt a little bit of missing wire insulation is going to cause any noticeable issues. I disagree. Though it might not solve the OP's problem I think anything being wrong with any ground wire on these trucks affect it. Changing one ground on mine made a huge difference. I think anything being wrong with the terminals and connections of the ground wire will affect it, but a little bit of missing wire insulation isn't going to change how a wire functions unless that bare wire is touching others around it. Current is going to flow through that wire regardless of the sheathing (or lack thereof) that is on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gr8plainsDriftr Posted May 4, 2009 Author Share Posted May 4, 2009 ok, i was a bit disheartend since i bought that zj, and finding the ground like that could have solved my problems. the wires arent corroded. found out the cam in the zj is more top end compared to mine. ill keep it that way since it might help fuel economy. staying with the 5 speed even tho its a peugot. pulling the engine and tranny together, but do i want to take off just the middle part of the front clip? any pictures showing what is taken off? I'm lookin for a HO tb spacer so i can drill and tap into it to get my renix tb mounted on the ho intake. i realize there isnt performance to be gained with this, but not having to customize a trashy tps sensor is my reason. anyone have one as a paper weight? ill trade. I'm tryin to build a toy hauler/exploration vehicle. i have a banshee, but no truck. 3" lift, 30-31" wider tires, a winch, some gears, and possibly a locker, then ill do the body work with updated front end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 There are some complications with bolting an older trans to the newer HO blocks. If I remember right, you'll need to make a custom pilot bushing. I wouldn't bother with re-using the peugeot, I'd go right for an AX-15. It represents some extra cost up front (you can still sell the peugeot to lessen that), but it'll be worth it when you're not doing a trans swap again later on. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gr8plainsDriftr Posted May 4, 2009 Author Share Posted May 4, 2009 oh no, i havent read that... custom pilot bushing? :doh: that doesnt sound likely though... at least not on a obd1 4.0? if i do end up swapping a transmission, it will probably be for an auto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 I do not know what's involved with mating a renix era AW-4 to an HO block. :dunno: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gr8plainsDriftr Posted May 5, 2009 Author Share Posted May 5, 2009 well, since i'm going to be using my old flywheel, and clutch and transmission, i shouldnt have any trouble. I did some research, and it seems that when swapping the ba ---> ax15, thats when the bushing has to be swapped, and the HO block is the same as my renix block, so i should be ok. anyone else want to chime in? swapping a HO and keeping the peugot if youve done it. I've heard people say stay away from this transmission, but i havent seen exactly what fails on them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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