Suggested Towing/recovery rules of the forum

[JeepcoMJ]

tow straps only.

 

 

 

no chains. PERIOD.

 

 

 

NO welded on tow hooks PERIOD...the welds will not hold, and they WILL injure someone by breaking off, flying at intense speeds, and hitting someone, or something.

 

 

 

MUST have at least some form of recovery points strong enough to pull you out (stock bumpers do not qualify, however stock front bumper with tow hook brackets, and a rear class 3 reciever qualify). rear reciever recovery can be a standard class 3 trailer hitch, BUT Cannot have a ball hitch...they must utilize a clevis (d-shackle, whatever you wish to call it).

 

 

 

I suggest your tow strap be rated at a minimum of 15000lbs, and be at least 20 feet long. however, it's preferable (for safety) to have a rating of 20,000 lbs to 25,000 lbs. remember, towing force is not equal but is greater than the weight of your vehicle...it always depends on the situation, and the manner of which the vehicle is to be pulled out (i.e. tugging = compounding weight which pretty much multiplys the weight of the vehicle respective to the amount of force pulling said vehicle).

 

 

 

I know I'm in no way in charge here, however I suggest very strongly that these be our rules of recovery gear for this forum's group wheeling.

 

 

 

Personally, I won't be part of recovery with someone reckless enough to not follow that strict set of rules...and I won't wheel with someone who doesn't have recovery points.

 

 

mods please feel free to discuss this with yourselfs and either leave it as good advice to the forum/rules of forum-specific wheeling events, or delete it as necessary (hopefully you can give input/advice first?)

[JeepcoMJ]

added:

 

front AND rear tow point should be mandatory

tow straps will not have hooks built in.

[mvusse]

A 2" square class III receiver does not require a clevis or D shackle. Insert the strap into the receiver, and put the hitch pin through the loop in the end of the strap.

[JeepcoMJ]

A 2" square class III receiver does not require a clevis or D shackle. Insert the strap into the receiver, and put the hitch pin through the loop in the end of the strap.

 

that method works too. It's sometimes easier though to just pull the clevis pin, toss the strap through clevis, and put it on the reciever (which is inserted into...well, the reciever lol)

[Pete M]

It can be argued that chains have their place in certain light duty recovery situations, but it is of the utmost importance that chain and strap never EVER be mixed. The same strap that can make a missile out of a poorly attached tow hook (or clevis or tow ball) can whip a broken chain through the air with the greatest of ease. :eek: I've seen it happen and I will go out of my way to prevent someone from attempting a pull like that. I can't even just turn my head and walk away (although running is more likely).

 

I've seen vehicles with snapped leaf springs, bent axles, missing sway bars, missing ball hitches, bent roll bars, bent trailer E-chain attachment points and more, just because they were used as recovery points. Even an otherwise simple looking recovery can turn dangerous if done wrong and the physics involved need to be understood or at least treated with respect. :thumbsup:

[bigd44889]

:hmm: why no chains

i have broken staps (20000 # )

never broke a chain

[JeepcoMJ]

:hmm: why no chains

i have broken staps (20000 # )

never broke a chain

 

chains breaking = unloading tension = flying metal.

 

this can go backwards, sideways, upwards, downwards...but no matter where it goes it is a threat to life when it breaks.

 

I've watched youtube vids where chains break for no reason and go straight through a window narrowly missing the person inside.

 

there are horror storys of them breaking and killing people.

 

 

a strap breaks it unloads but doesn't go flying everywhere unless the tow point broke off with it (weighs down the end and goes flying).

 

it is not a hazard to life as much as a chain is.

 

 

pretty much...if you've got a chain as your primary recovery, YOU ARE NOT WHEELING WITH ME. I steer clear of it, because I value my life and that of others.

[bigd44889]

calm down

point taken

i was just wondering your reason

i carry both

the problum i run into when pulling a car out is cutting straps so chain is nessasary

[JeepcoMJ]

calm down

point taken

i was just wondering your reason

i carry both

the problum i run into when pulling a car out is cutting straps so chain is nessasary

 

lol...and that is understandable.

 

I wasn't directing that as you...merely making a point reguarding those rednecks who think chain is the only way to make a recovery. sadly they're also the guys drinking and driving out on the pipeline here in WI while they wheel

[bigd44889]

ya i stop drinking and driving when i was 18

came up on an acident and watched them bag 2 freinds of mine that were drinking and driving a fastback mustang and blew a brack line coming into a curve at estimated speed of 130

hit a tree sideways and wraped car around tree bumper to bumper

back to the point

i agree saftyfirst

a better idea is better than brut force :thumbsup:

[mvusse]

I've seen vehicles with snapped leaf springs, bent axles, missing sway bars, missing ball hitches, bent roll bars, bent trailer E-chain attachment points and more, just because they were used as recovery points.

 

Secretary used her F250 4x4 powerstroke to attempt to tow the 24' box truck out of the dock when stuck on ice using a chain hooked to a safety chain loop on her class III hitch. Luckily the loop on the hitch broke before there was a lot of strain on the chain, so it didn't go flying too fast.

[86FUBAR]

tow straps only.

 

no chains. PERIOD.

 

NO welded on tow hooks PERIOD...the welds will not hold, and they WILL injure someone by breaking off, flying at intense speeds, and hitting someone, or something.

 

Wile i agree that chains can be dangerous i do believe that they have there place but u are intitled to your OPINION.

 

And as for your comment "No welded on tow hooks PERIOD... the welds will not hold"

, u are staiting that the weld will fail not the hook break as a result of being welded and in that case then weld on D-shackle mounts that can be purchased by anyone and welded on as they please should not be used or even home brewed as done by u on your own personal vehicle which IMHO yours are to thin but i digress . Anyhow in my experience (and opinion) iv run welded on tow hooks for years and have never had a problem , i think it all boils down to weld quality and personal judgment

[WyoCherokee]

good ideas.... although i have never had a good chain fail. even yaking out 20,000lb tractors stuck to the cab. , tried pulling with a strap and all it did was strech, hooked up with my good chains, put it in 4-lo, dragged it out no problem.... I Think most people use crappy chains that are 20 years old and badly rusted. a good chain won't break. just my 2cents

[JeepcoMJ]

While i agree that chains can be dangerous i do believe that they have there place but u are entitled to your OPINION.

 

And as for your comment "No welded on tow hooks PERIOD... the welds will not hold"

, u are stating that the weld will fail not the hook break as a result of being welded and in that case then weld on D-shackle mounts that can be purchased by anyone and welded on as they please should not be used or even home brewed as done by u on your own personal vehicle which IMHO yours are to thin but i digress . Anyhow in my experience (and opinion) iv run welded on tow hooks for years and have never had a problem , i think it all boils down to weld quality and personal judgment

 

chains have their place. but they don't belong in a tug-n-pull situation. they're for mild recovery, not major. that's not an opinion, it's pretty much a fact. any runs I go on...no chains allowed. and I don't host runs, I don't trail lead. that rule is not one I made, but one I thoroughly embrace. Straps have their place and are adequate in 99% of situations.

 

As for my statement.

 

it applies to an actual TOW HOOK not industrial D rings etc. there's a difference between welding a 2lb tow hook to a piece of steel and calling it good, and welding an industrial D ring on a solid surface.

 

industrial D rings are usually welded on material that is 1/2" thick or thicker, and they are welded on using a good quality welder that has high heat and great penetration. an average joe shouldn't weld them on, and they shouldn't be on anything thinner than what they're designed for. in the case of industrial D-rings, they are designed for heavy machinery but not so much for recovery of the vehicle they're generally found on.

 

a tow hook should never, ever, ever be welded on to anything. they have two holes for a reason. grade 5 bolts are to be used.

 

the reason for this is that grade 8 bolts, and welds, do not give. at the point where they're going to break, they snap and unload as fast as a bullet coming out of a pistol.

 

grade 5 bolts will show signs of give before they break, allowing the driver to feel (and spotters who are standing within safe distance of the vehicle being recovered to see) the problem before the hooks have a chance break off.

 

I've been on a few trail runs now. I say that as literally a few. I'm no seasoned wheeler, but I listen very attentively to recovery advice and facts, because I don't want to die, nor do I want to see anyone get killed or hurt.

 

any organized trail run you go on will have a safety check. if you weld your tow hooks on, you will not pass it. that's because the rest of us would like to survive the trip. if your hooks are welded on...fine for you. but expect it to become a problem in one way or another in the future. because in the end, it's not safe.

 

 

p.s. there is a difference between but-welding a recovery point to a bumper (or whatever it's being welded to), and incorporating it into the mounts, which are welded THROUGH the bumper. And BTW I didn't finish my clevis mounts yet either. hence the fact that I didn't drill the holes...then I'm not tempted to use them, and I go the old fashioned way with my clevis reciever until it's done.

[TNT]

Here's a safety video for your write up. It's very informative, a must see.

 

The Correct use of a Snatch Strap.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JBnxSqpuCM

[Jerry]

What's the best option for a rear recovery point? I have a standard rear bumper and want to keep it.

And what about the front, I was going to buy a set of bolt on tow hooks. Are they OK?

[JeepcoMJ]

What's the best option for a rear recovery point? I have a standard rear bumper and want to keep it.

And what about the front, I was going to buy a set of bolt on tow hooks. Are they OK?

 

 

a class 3 hitch will work just fine in the rear (just get a shackle reciever to make it easier), and yes tow hooks are fine...you just need to have decent enough mounts/not have them welded to the mounts.

 

factory tow hooks and mounts are more than adequate.

[thedave360]

So I'm planning on having my front bumper made at a local tractor shop because I know the guys. I was planning on having them weld on some big D rings on the front and the rear. The rear bumper is made of some thick steel pipe. I know some of you guys have a phobia of welding, but would that be good?

[JeepcoMJ]

So I'm planning on having my front bumper made at a local tractor shop because I know the guys. I was planning on having them weld on some big D rings on the front and the rear. The rear bumper is made of some thick steel pipe. I know some of you guys have a phobia of welding, but would that be good?

 

are you talking about welding on the industrial D-rings with the little weld on clip, or welding on mounts for clevis?

 

either of those would be fine, though the clevis mounts should be welded all the way through the bumper and be at least 1/2" thick.

[TNT]

Here's a safety video for your write up. It's very informative, a must see.

 

The Correct use of a Snatch Strap.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JBnxSqpuCM

 

 

Be sure to add this to your post if this gets cleaned up and made sticky.

[btm24]

I know this has been dead for a while but what better place to ask y not cables? you can make a cable recovery easy with out harm. :cheers:

[motorhedmach1]

i have a few hundred feet of 3" double braided nylon rope, never broke any never will just a recomendation.

[JeepcoMJ]

I know this has been dead for a while but what better place to ask y not cables? you can make a cable recovery easy with out harm. http://comancheclub.com/public/style_emoticons/#EMO_DIR#/beerchug.gif

 

cables have more tendency to snap, and they have more recoil if they do break.

 

 

if a strap breaks, it's not going to puncture anyone and kill them. maybe a welt if you're dumb enough to be real close to it. they also don't go flying as far when they break. that, and they distribute weight over more surface space, as they are wider.

[JeepcoMJ]

i have a few hundred feet of 3" double braided nylon rope, never broke any never will just a recomendation.

 

 

yeah...but it's harder to carry a few hundred feet of 3" nylon rope. it doesn't store as nicely as a good strap.

[Pete M]

x2 on both accounts. why use something that's halfass when it's not hard to get something actually designed to do the task at hand? heck, a 2"x20' tow strap is only $25 and it's not likely to kill or maim anyone.

this is the absolute bare minimum I would use (and it's not really designed for hard recoveries):

http://www.walmart.com/ip/SmartStraps-2 ... k/14493271

remember to clean them after use. mud and dirt particles are abrasive and will weaken the strap over time.

 

For years I used a 3"x30' strap until someone I loaned it to didn't notice that they had a knot in it when tension was applied. the knot is permanent now. :fs1: and I don't loan those out anymore. :no: