Jump to content

Slave Cylinder Problem???


Recommended Posts

As I entered the highway exit ramp, I stepped down on the clutch pedal to drop-down to 4th gear and the pedal went to the floor & I couldn’t shift the transmission. I did manage to get the transmission into 3rd with some effort and limped to my destination.

 

The clutch reservoir was low but not empty. I filled it up and the pedal still went to the floor. There was no puddle under the truck and no fluid on my fuse box.

 

Is this my slave cylinder? And yes it has the Peugeot, so I know it’s internal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What are the process steps to determine if my problem is the master, slave, bad hose, or something else?

Fill it up, step on the peddle, and see where the juice squirts out.

 

I have yet to see a master cylinder do a sudden, catastrophic fail. There's nothing in the master to blow out like that. The hose has a rubber section that can blow. Been there and done that (125 miles with no clutch!). The slave has a bellows that can blow. Been there and done that, too. (25 miles with no clutch.) The master, though, usually fails gradually and quietly, taking out the fuse panel in the process.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This failure was not totally unexpected. About 3 weeks ago while topping-off fluids before my 850 mile round-trip visit to central PA, I noticed that the clutch mater cylinder fluid level was just above the MIN line. I added enough DOT 3 brake fluid to come right-up to the MAX line.

 

Over the next few days, I noticed that the fluid was leaking out of somewhere onto the ground. This only lasted a few days until the fluid level went back to just above the MIN line. Unfortunately, I did not get under the truck and investigate where the fluid was leaking from. The part of the clutch master cylinder that comes through the fire wall (above the fuse box) was wet but not leaking or dripping with any frequency.

 

There was no change in clutch pedal feel or effort in shifting the transmission prior to the failure.

 

Unfortunately, the truck is now sitting in my uncle’s driveway 70 miles away and I cannot easily diagnose or attempt to fix it now. I have a tow truck coming on Monday. My uncle has used this repair shop many times before. I will let them know to check for a problem with the clutch master cylinder or connecting hose before they just rip into the transmission to access the slave.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After reading the further discussion about this, I know believe that your problem is likely the slave if there is no puddles of fluid from a broken hose squirting. Mine did the exact same thing when the slave went bad...fluid would go down slowly and if it got too low, the clutch was gone, but there were no puddles under the truck. I could always refill, pump the pedal a bit and bee good though until I finally replaced it.

 

The master on my YJ went out like that one time though...no leaks, it just would not hold pressure and the fluid stayed full :nuts:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The part of the clutch master cylinder that comes through the fire wall (above the fuse box) was wet but not leaking or dripping with any frequency.

 

There was no change in clutch pedal feel or effort in shifting the transmission prior to the failure. :eek:

 

:agree: x2 with what eagle stated

The master, though, usually fails gradually and quietly, taking out the fuse panel in the process.
you want to prevent asap or you'll have another job on your hands to mess with. I know they have rebuild kits for them which i have rebuild a few in the past now i just replace them when they show signs of leakage... :cheers:
Link to comment
Share on other sites

..and now for the BIG question. If it's the slave and the tranmission has to taken apart, how much do you think the bill will be for? I'm also going to have them replace the clutch while he is in there.
Well...I bought a clutch kit for mine for about $150 (I believe) that came with a slave too. The problem there was, the slave did not fit right and as I found out...doesn't last long either, so I ended up buying the one at the dealership for another $100 +/-. You should plan on $250 - $300 for parts at least and be sure to use the OE slave...you will regret it if you don't...I did :roll: .

 

I have no idea what you will pay in labor as I was working at the dealership at the time mine went out so I got one of the guys there to help me out for a little cash a some cold Bud Light ;) .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

..and now for the BIG question. If it's the slave and the transmission has to taken apart, how much do you think the bill will be for? I'm also going to have them replace the clutch while he is in there.

 

 

More than if you did it yourself with some friends. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

not to steal a thread but are the internal slaves of a ba10 and the ax15 different..please tell me there not..i just installed a tranny and used the one out of the ba cause it looked to be brand new..sure felt like it fit the same..

No...they are not the same. I am really surprised that you were able to put it in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree Pete. However, the truck is 70 miles from my garage & tools. It's also too cold outside right now to tackle this job. I'm not happy about having to pay for this repair, but my hands are tied on this one.

 

 

Well, ya gotta do what ya gotta do. Shop around if you can. Compare prices and warrantys and use a factory slave cylinder if at all possible. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just got the call-back from the shop.

 

$309 Clutch Kit (which includes the new slave cylinder)

$149 New Clutch Master Cylinder

$50 Resurface the flywheel

$25 Sales tax on parts

$90 Tow charge

$525 7 hours labor

 

$1,148 TOTAL

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not positive rob, but I'm pretty sure the FSM says that the fly wheel cannot/should not be resurfaced. So you may want to check with Eagle. Better to buy a new one now rather than have to pull the tranny again in a few months.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The FSM does indeed say not to resurface the flywheel, and friends of mine from NAXJA who have unwittingly allowed shops to do so ended up having to later have the flywheel replaced anyway because the new clutch wouldn't work right. I have heard some people say they had the flywheel resurfaced and didn't experience problems, but IMHO it's a huge risk to take, because the cost of a new flywheel is small compared to the labor for doing the job twice.

 

Do NOT use the slave cylinder that comes in the clutch kit. Use only factory slave and master cylinders, or you'll be replacing them within about six months.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pete, I'm with you 100%. I don't like spending this type of cash but my hands are tied on this one. :headpop:

 

I called the local Jeep parts guy and the slave cylinder is not stocked in any Massachusetts Jeep dealer-it's a Detroit sourced item only and takes 4 business days to ship. The clutch master cylinder is the same delivery time from Milwaukee.

 

This really sucks! :fs1:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are alternatives-one would require using my wife's car which is a problem b/c our schedules are too different and the other is to take my Mustang out of storage. I really don't want to do that-especially with another storm coming on Wednesday.

 

If the calender read June I could take a month to fix it, but I don't have that luxury.

 

"Sometimes you eat the bar, and sometimes, well, he eats you."

-The Stranger (Sam Elliott) from the Big Lebowski

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...