dirtlord420 Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 alright am wanting to switch my closed system to a open. i wanting a three core radiator metal, has to be for an 4.0 auto. i've checked a few places just don't know witch one i need, or whats a good price? it also has to be a direct fit. where a good place to buy one? i also need to find to the heater hoses and tank for the swap. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 Is your radiator bad? If not...leave it alone!! I say this because I went the exact route that you are talking about and it WAS NOT WORTH the aggrivation it caused. If your radiator is bad, get an exact replacement for it as it cools just fine. The three rows do not improve cooling in these trucks...they just cost more money and cause other headaches. CLICK HERE to see what you really need to make the open system conversion easy :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 I disagree with Brent on this one... I've done the open loop swap on my Renix era XJ and I think it's one of the better mods I've done (you can read it in the DIY part of the forum). There are many reason's to do the conversion, and I feel it's money well spent. I run the CSF 3-Cores in all my rigs and have had great results. I've seen good results in decreased temps from going to a 3 core. Also the nice thing about the CSF is it's all metal (no plastic sides) and you don't have to worry about them cracking as they are known to do. Not looking to start an argument, but from someone who's done the conversion and also have put in 4 CSF 3-cores I think they are both money well spent... :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 Just to clarify my point... I used the 3 row CSF too, but I just don't see that the trouble I went through to put it in and make everything work with a radiator that is not perfectly made for the Jeep. It took me two weeks to come up with a solution for the electric fan to work thermostatically without putting a manual switch on it and then figuring out an overflow bottle, running new hoses etc, etc... That kind of stuff is what I meant is not worth it. All that work and it will still run at 210 degrees as it always did before. The CSF is a good qualtiy swap, but the 3 row has no benefit over a stock style replacement as far as cooling for our trucks :cheers: . That Mac's tank is a much easier and less costly solution for someone with the desire to have an open style system :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 I went halfway in my 88. I added a later model "open" radiator (one with a cap), but kept the rest of the closed system. Seems to work just fine and I have a radiator cap to fill through. :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfpackjeeper Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 Advance Auto. 3 core CSF all metal radiator. Ask for the heatbuster series. I use one to cool my stroker. It works great. It did go in a 1991 Cherokee though, so it was already an open system. I think it was $200 retail when I got mine. But I worked there at the time so I got it a shade cheaper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tallon2064 Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 Was always wondering if that could be done Pete, now I know. :banana: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garmj Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 I may be wrong but it looks to me that adding a aftermarket inline upper rad hose filler and rerouting a hose or two should get rid of that pesky pressurized coolant bottle.And use this.http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 I may be wrong but it looks to me that adding a aftermarket inline upper rad hose filler and rerouting a hose or two should get rid of that pesky pressurized coolant bottle.And use this.http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku Haven't seen that in a while, but yes, that could be another option. Just add an overflow bottle... :thumbsup: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wolfpackjeeper Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 incidentally it is "which" not witch. Unless you are looking for a haunted radiator Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Sam Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 new for new, you may be hard pressed to tell the difference between the single core stock, and the 3 core CSF. (now that is debatable, I am a firm believer that more surface area and cooling volume will always prove to be better) However, as the vehicle ages the 3 core will continue to provide sufficient cooling while the single core will quickly fall on its @$$. Additionally even before the single core fails in daily duty's it will fail under duress. Plain and simple, the 3 core is the way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carnuck Posted January 17, 2009 Share Posted January 17, 2009 The 3 core is generally cheaper because they have far fewer returns on them. i-800-radiator and ask for the NAXJA.org discount Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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