Steering adjustment

[HOrnbrod]

Prolly had a smaller lift - a mere 2-1/2" front, 3" back. Just enough for the 31s. :D

[offroader461]

You ARE correct that if the drag link needs a large adjustment, it can result in an incremental (tiny) change in toe-in. Usually the change is so small that it can't even be measured, or if it shows up it's not worth readjusting the toe to take it out. But, centering the steering wheel SHOULD be done with the adjusting sleeve on the draglink, not by moving the pitman arm. The toe-in should then be re-checked, and corrected IF necessary.

 

Do not attempt to align by removing the pitman arm from the steering box.

 

:agree: Verified this recently when I installed an adj. trackbar to center my front axel. After the install, the steering wheel was right off center by about 45 degrees. Brought it to a friend who has an alignment shop. The toe was spot-on on the computer as it was before the trackbar install, and I verified it with equal measurements w. a tape measure between the rear and front sides of the tires just for my own amusement. We then adjusted the drag link to center the steering wheel, took about two complete turns, then re-checked the toe. The computer showed no change in the toe; the tape showed a 1/16" change (eyeball cal is relative :D ). No toe correction was necessary, I trusted the computer more. Maybe after three turns or more of the drag link SLIGHT toe adjustment might be necessary, but it would be neglible. Yeah Eagle, do not attempt to align by removing the pitman arm from the steering box.

 

Yea that is why my steering wheel was off was from installing my RockKrawler Trackbar....i also took it to an alignment shop and everything is spot on where it should be as it was b4

[aemsee]

When is the last time you pulled a shaft off of a gear box? They are 99.99999% of the time keyed in some way, (double spline, or usually a flat.)

 

Also, gear boxes have what they call and over center adjustment. The turning torque is slightly higher when the box is centered. If you adjust your wheel any method than what was stated above, you will mess this up.

 

 

Think about this. If your toe is set, your truck is sitting wheels down, and you turn the drag link sleeve. What is more likely to move, the tires or the steering wheel?

 

I have thought about this. I am right. it will affect alignment.

 

last time I redid the shaft...last friday, one last thursday, and I've done about 7 others. the oldest style steering shafts are keyed flat on one side of the steering box's input shaft, so you can only install one way. as you get newer (89 or so) they are not keyed...they go in 360 degrees.

 

 

the proper way to adjust, a combination of methods. it is required to re-align the wheels when centering the steering wheel, if you want to have it be accurate.

otherwise, as you turn OUT the drag-link, making it longer, you change the slope of the angle from point A (pitman) to point C (knuckle) and where the interesection is on the drag-link (point B) will push the left wheel out a bit. this will toe you out.

likewise, if you turn IN the drag-link, shortening the distance between A and C, you create a sharper slope and it will pull the left wheel in and toe you in more.

 

you must do a combination of tie-rod and drag-link adjustment to get yourself alignment correct, and if you don't have full turns left to right with the wheel meeting in the center, you must adjust the steering column by disconnecting it from the steering box AFTER having centered the steering box at equal turns left to right and vice-versa.

 

if you can't follow that, you probably didn't do to well in geometry.

 

Actually, last geometry exam I took was the NYS regents exam in high school and got a 96 on it :nanner: . More importantly, I have been teaching steering and suspension classes for Chrysler for the last two years. Whether you put any stock in that I don't care, but I do know what the factory procedures are, and they in no way include taking apart the steering input shaft or pitman arm to center the wheel.

[aemsee]

This is from the 2000 XJ FSM:

 

WHEEL ALIGNMENT

Before each alignment reading, the vehicle should be jounced (rear first, then front) Grasp each bumper at the center and jounce the vehicle up and down several times. Always release the bumper in the down position. Set the front end alignment to specifications with the vehicle at its NORMAL RIDE HEIGHT.

 

CAMBER

The wheel camber angle is preset. This angle is not adjustable and cannot be altered.

 

CASTER

Before checking the caster of the front axle for correct angle, be sure the axle is not bent or twisted.

 

Road test the vehicle, make left and right turns. If the steering wheel returns to the center position unassisted, the caster angle is correct. If steering wheel does not return toward the center position unassisted, an incorrect caster angle is probable.

 

Caster can be adjusted by installing the appropriate size shims Caster Adjustment

 

NOTE: Changing caster angle will also change the front propeller shaft angle. The propeller shaft angle has priority over caster. Refer to Group 3 Differential & Driveline for additional information

 

TOE POSITION (LHD)

NOTE: The wheel toe position adjustment is the final adjustment. The engine must remain running during the entire toe position adjustment.

 

Start the engine and turn wheels both ways before straightening the wheels. Secure the steering wheel with the front wheels in the straight-ahead position.

Loosen the adjustment sleeve clamp bolts Steering Linkage (LHD)

Adjust the right wheel toe position with the drag link. Turn the sleeve until the right wheel is at correct TOE-IN specifications. Position the clamp bolts as shown Drag Link and Tie Rod Clamp (LHD) and tighten to 49 N·m (36 ft. lbs.)

NOTE: Make sure the toe setting does not change during clamp tightening.

 

Adjust the left wheel toe position with the tie rod. Turn the sleeve until the left wheel is at specifications. Position the clamp bolts as shown Drag Link and Tie Rod Clamp (LHD) and tighten to 27 N·m (20 ft. lbs.)

NOTE: Make sure the toe setting does not change during clamp tightening.

 

Verify the right toe setting and turn off engine.

Road test the vehicle on a flat level road to verify the steering wheel is centered

NOTE: Once the toe setting is correct, the steering wheel can be re-centered by adjusting only the drag link

[jtdesigns]

Hummmm.. :idea: I've always liked the Blazer steering wheels... Whats that Buick wheel look like??

 

I think I've posted this before JT? Since these pics I've blackened out the JeeP logo and circle engraving. This wheel looks almost like the leather Jeep wheel only a bit stouter.

 

 

 

Yeah Ive seen those pictures before, but I didnt know that was a buick wheel. It does look factory. I guess thats what I thought when I saw it the first time, and then you said you had a Buick, well I was like,, :hmm: That horn button takes all the visual perception so I didnt even examine the wheel.. :D

[BLHTAZ]

of course, you have to realize that adjusting the drag-link will lengthen or shorten it, slightly changing the angle of the tie-rod as a result.

 

so yes, it WILL affect your alignment. go ask anyplace that aligns trucks for a living.

 

 

want to fix your steering wheel center? remove the steering shaft from the steering box and turn it accordingly. you can also do this at the firewall.

 

BUT to do it you must disconnect and drop your column and pull it out about 2".

Sorry, but that is wrong for the average situation... :doh: ;) . I have worked in several places that did alignments on lifted vehicles and have assisted in doing a few to try to learn a little more about it. The adjuster sleeve that is on the drag link is there for the purpose of adjusting the steering wheel as well as setting the proper length of the link. Adjusting it simply moves the pitman arm ever so slightly and in no way has any effect on the alignment. If the wheel is off by more than 180 degrees or more, then there is reason to use the other methods as the adjuster will likely not be able to do it...or, if it does, the turning radius is probably going to be adversely effected. :cheers:

[JeepcoMJ]

jebus, I DID NOT say ANYTHING about removing the pitman arm.

[BLHTAZ]

jebus, I DID NOT say ANYTHING about removing the pitman arm.

:hmm: Who did...?? :dunno: . I don't see anything about that either... :dunno:

[shelbyluvv]

I just pulled the steering shafts of both the MJ (89) and the XJ (97) and they both had an indexing groove in them where the lock bolt went threw them.

 

There is no way possible to adjust the steering wheel by removing the steering shaft and turning it. It only goes on one way.

 

This is off topic a little bit.

A 97 steering shaft will fit on a 89 steering gear without any modifications.

[JeepcoMJ]

I just pulled the steering shafts of both the MJ (89) and the XJ (97) and they both had an indexing groove in them where the lock bolt went threw them.

 

There is no way possible to adjust the steering wheel by removing the steering shaft and turning it. It only goes on one way.

 

This is off topic a little bit.

A 97 steering shaft will fit on a 89 steering gear without any modifications.

 

untrue. the newer style does not have a flat spot in the spline on the steering shaft. they do have a groove ring where the bolt slides through to keep the shaft from pulling off, and also tighten the splined collar on the bottom ujoint of the steering shaft.

 

any newer style steering column will go on in a 360 degree radius. fact.

[JeepcoMJ]

jebus, I DID NOT say ANYTHING about removing the pitman arm.

:hmm: Who did...?? :dunno: . I don't see anything about that either... :dunno:

 

that would be Eagle.

[shelbyluvv]

untrue. the newer style does not have a flat spot in the spline on the steering shaft. they do have a groove ring where the bolt slides through to keep the shaft from pulling off, and also tighten the splined collar on the bottom ujoint of the steering shaft.

 

any newer style steering column will go on in a 360 degree radius. fact.

 

Let me see if I got this right?

 

I know there is no keyed groove in the steering shafts in either of my trucks. Never said there was. I said they "had an indexing groove in them where the lock bolt went threw them".

 

Are you saying that,

You remove the lock/jam bolt from the steering shaft.

Release the shaft from the steering cloumn.

Then turn the steering wheel to where it points straight

Then re-install the steering shaft on the column.

 

How do you get the lock/jam bolt back in once you turn the steering cloumn?

[mvusse]

Another problem that crops up by doing that is that center in the steering box, is not strait forward. If you're off far enough you will hit the limit on the steering box before the steering stop on the axle, so you can still turn the same amount one direction, but not as much the other way.

 

I will repeat this again:

 

The drag link has an adjusting sleeve. This sleeve is there to center the steering wheel. Do it like it's supposed to be done.

[Eagle]

Let me see if I got this right?

 

I know there is no keyed groove in the steering shafts in either of my trucks. Never said there was. I said they "had an indexing groove in them where the lock bolt went threw them".

 

Are you saying that,

You remove the lock/jam bolt from the steering shaft.

Release the shaft from the steering cloumn.

Then turn the steering wheel to where it points straight

Then re-install the steering shaft on the column.

 

How do you get the lock/jam bolt back in once you turn the steering cloumn?

You don't do this.

 

It appears I misread what Pat wrote. However, the net result of moving the steering wheel on the shaft is the same as moving the pitman arm on the pitman shaft -- the steering box will no longer be centered when the steering wheel is straight.

 

This is NOT an appropriate way to center the streering wheel. That's what the adjusting collar on the drag link is for.

[shelbyluvv]

of course, you have to realize that adjusting the drag-link will lengthen or shorten it, slightly changing the angle of the tie-rod as a result.

 

so yes, it WILL affect your alignment. go ask anyplace that aligns trucks for a living.

 

 

want to fix your steering wheel center? remove the steering shaft from the steering box and turn it accordingly. you can also do this at the firewall.

BUT to do it you must disconnect and drop your column and pull it out about 2".

 

I checked both the 97 and the 89 Columns when I got home from work.

 

You CAN remove the steering shaft from the steering gear and adjust it that way.

 

But, you can't do it on the upper side of the steering shaft. They are BOTH shaped like a square and they will only go on one way up there. (This is where I was confused, and rightly so)

 

I do not suggest that you use this method but, it can be done.

[Eagle]

I checked both the 97 and the 89 Columns when I got home from work.

 

You CAN remove the steering shaft from the steering gear and adjust it that way.

 

But, you can't do it on the upper side of the steering shaft. They are BOTH shaped like a square and they will only go on one way up there. (This is where I was confused, and rightly so)

 

I do not suggest that you use this method but, it can be done.

But if you do it that way the steering box will not be centered when the steering wheel is straight. That has two problems. First, you won't be able to turn all the way to one side, because you'll hit the internal stop in the box. Second, as was noted a few posts above, the worm-and-sector steering box is set up to have minimum lash at dead center and to be looser off-center. When you set the steering wheel out of synch with the box, you'll be driving with the box in a looser position when you're going straight. If you tighten the adjustment to "correct" that, you'll then cause binding when the box goes over the center point.

 

Just ... don't do it.

[HOrnbrod]

Just ... don't do it.

 

No worries, I damn sure will not. Don't think anyone else will either. Can we put this to bed now? :D

[aemsee]

:agree:

[shelbyluvv]

I am not arguing at all that Jeepco's way is the wrong way to adjust the steering wheel.

 

I was trying to figure out how you could do it at the firewall. I thought I was going stupid for a second there.

[Eagle]

I was trying to figure out how you could do it at the firewall. I thought I was going stupid for a second there.

You can't. Not without getting the steering wheel off-center to the steering box.