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Permanent Fuel Rail Pressure Gauge


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What is the schrader valve on the fuel rail normally used for ?

I like the gauge, but I'm wondering if the valve is used for something other than checking pressure? (introducing injector cleaner, just releasing pressure ect...)

 

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  • 3 years later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

I also bought this setup of fittings. A 1/4" female flare to 1/8" NPT Female straight and a 1/8" NPT Female x 1/8" NPT Male Elbow. I did this since I can look at the guage better this way. I got these off of McMaster Carr. Around $12 total.

 

Part#: 6432T117

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/195/=su11cn

 

(Update... Bought the flare fitting and the threads are not deep enough to catch the threads on the fuel rail.)

 

Part#: 4452K471

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/4/=su11ql

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  • 5 months later...

Okay, so I did this mod; very cool!

 

My pressure at idle is 44 PSI (!). I rev it to about 2000 RPM and it tops out at 48 PSI... Is this okay? To be expected?

 

I have the larger multi-port injectors (Mustang 5.0 I believe) and an updated fuel pressure regulator that I thought was supposed to regulate the pressure to ~39 PSI...no?

 

IMG_8656_1.jpg

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Okay, so I did this mod; very cool!

 

My pressure at idle is 44 PSI (!). I rev it to about 2000 RPM and it tops out at 48 PSI... Is this okay? To be expected?

 

I have the larger multi-port injectors (Mustang 5.0 I believe) and an updated fuel pressure regulator that I thought was supposed to regulate the pressure to ~39 PSI...no?

 

IMG_8656_1.jpg

 

Also, i was reading the instructions that came with the brass adapter and it warns against using glycerin filled gauges on the fuel rail because the engine vibs could crack the Shrader valve eventually...I guess its a weight thing.....anyone ever heard of this happening?

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Okay, so I did this mod; very cool!

 

My pressure at idle is 44 PSI (!). I rev it to about 2000 RPM and it tops out at 48 PSI... Is this okay? To be expected?

 

I have the larger multi-port injectors (Mustang 5.0 I believe) and an updated fuel pressure regulator that I thought was supposed to regulate the pressure to ~39 PSI...no?

Sounds like you bought the wrong regulator. Which "updated" regulator did you install? A GM regulator? They are useful perhaps on a stroker to correct a lean condition but should not be on a N/A engine.

 

Also, i was reading the instructions that came with the brass adapter and it warns against using glycerin filled gauges on the fuel rail because the engine vibs could crack the Shrader valve eventually...I guess its a weight thing.....anyone ever heard of this happening?

Maybe if you hit it with a hammer long enough.  :yes:  I've had one mounted for years. They are referring to the larger 2-1/16" gauges.

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Okay, so I did this mod; very cool!

 

My pressure at idle is 44 PSI (!). I rev it to about 2000 RPM and it tops out at 48 PSI... Is this okay? To be expected?

 

I have the larger multi-port injectors (Mustang 5.0 I believe) and an updated fuel pressure regulator that I thought was supposed to regulate the pressure to ~39 PSI...no?

Sounds like you bought the wrong regulator. Which "updated" regulator did you install? A GM regulator? They are useful perhaps on a stroker to correct a lean condition but should not be on a N/A engine.

 

Also, i was reading the instructions that came with the brass adapter and it warns against using glycerin filled gauges on the fuel rail because the engine vibs could crack the Shrader valve eventually...I guess its a weight thing.....anyone ever heard of this happening?

Maybe if you hit it with a hammer long enough.  :yes:  I've had one mounted for years. They are referring to the larger 2-1/16" gauges.

 

 

Thanks Hornbrod.

 

I was checking my records and I believe it is the PR11 for Chrysler vehicles. I remember doing research and that's the best I could come up with.

 

I think this one....http://www.ebay.com/itm/PR211-NEW-Fuel-Injection-Pressure-Regulator-for-CHRYSLER-DODGE-PLYMOUTH-/261522234559?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ce3f09cbf&vxp=mtr

 

Which one do you suggest i buy? The motor is stock other than the injectors pretty much.

 

Here is an image on mine...it has 8565 stamped in it...I haven't got around to noting the other number...I imagine its a PN.

 

Thanks!

 

IMG_8658_1.jpg

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If you have a stock engine you should be using the stock fuel pressure regulator to maintain the proper A/F (air/fuel) ratio. It's pressure is sized for your fuel system, 31 and 39 psi in this case. Obviously you have one that's has a higher pressure rating and you're just wasting fuel. You should be using the below or similar for your 92 4.0.

 

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/fuel-pressure-regulator-53030001.html

 

Another remote possibility is that your new pressure gauge may be reading high. It's doubtful, but verify this using a rental set of gauges from Autozone or another parts store.

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Hmm...

 

I really thought the larger injectors required the higher pressure regulator...

 

Also, when I first put the injectors in I started it with the stock regulator and is coughed, sputtered and ran like crap...hence buying the upgraded 44psi regulator.

 

What should I do?

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Hmm...

 

I really thought the larger injectors required the higher pressure regulator...

 

Also, when I first put the injectors in I started it with the stock regulator and is coughed, sputtered and ran like crap...hence buying the upgraded 44psi regulator.

 

What should I do?

Ok I see a lot of miss info here so I wanted to chime in...

 

what I see misunderstood is not that you have a larger regulator or larger injectors but how your mixing them...

 

Example...

Your Stock system is 31psi @ idle and 39psi without vacuum which is usually on acceleration... Your Factory injectors which vary in size but roughly in and around 20-21lbs run at 39psi so the mustang injectors

you installed need to be run at the pressure of the mustang otherwise they are larger or smaller then they were intended for...

 

So if you have a 24lbs injector (typical mustang injector for a 5.0L) and running at lets say 38psi (I do not know what the actual pressure is for the mustang) would mean that the injectors your running will

be around 25.5lbs which is way too large for a Stock engine unless you have done a lot of upgrades...

 

If you have the bosch part number on the injector I can run them to see what the lbs and psi are for that specific injector...

 

Either return your regulator to stock 31-39psi or match the pressure to bring down the mustang injectors...

 

I run Both an in cab A pillar pod with A/F Gauge and electronic Fuel pressure gauge as I prefer to see what my fuel is when I am on the throttle but my system is now OBDII 49psi constant and I run a 4.7L Stroker engine...

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Thanks guys.

 

The Bosch injector number is 0280155700.

 

I bought them after reading another post on this forum.

 

The ebay listing is

 

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11400.m1842.l3160/7?euid=7aa58b828db147fa8d5699ebd1ead20f&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D261285799097%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AL%3AOC%3AUS%3A3160

 

I not believe he mentions flow rate or what regulator swap.

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Thanks guys.

 

The Bosch injector number is 0280155700.

 

I bought them after reading another post on this forum.

 

The ebay listing is

 

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/e11400.m1842.l3160/7?euid=7aa58b828db147fa8d5699ebd1ead20f&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Febaymotors%2Fws%2FeBayISAPI.dll%3FViewItem%26item%3D261285799097%26ssPageName%3DADME%3AL%3AOC%3AUS%3A3160

 

I not believe he mentions flow rate or what regulator swap.

I think you need to move this to tech instead of posting on Hornbrods write up.

The number you need and what I used is Bosch 0280155703 with stock regulator runs great

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Hornbrod, what am I missing here? I am extremely interested in fitting my 'manche with a pressure gauge. But, two problems. First, the Shrader valve on this vehicle's rail is canted downwards somewhat. It is not obvious to me that the rail can be repositioned upward...but perhaps. Second, the problem with a downward can't is that the gauge seriously conflicts with what appears to be a CCV assembly of tubes, etc. That's not to say with some creativity, I couldn't lower them a tad. But is it possible you have replaced this assembly with a more stream-lined version? I toyed with the thought of a 60-degree bronze extension fitting (to lift the gauge up slightly), but I'm not sure it would clear the hood. Even if I were able to reposition the rail so that the Shrader valve was canted somewhat upwards, I would still be conflicting with the supposed CCV stuff.

 

Another question, arising from taking many long looks at your photos. I have been toying with chroming the valve cover to class the joint up a bit. In your photos, though, you seem to have a different-than-chrome coating on the valve cover...is that right? What is it?

 

Thanks for any thoughts.

 

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Then you must have a Renix era MJ. You'll have to use an elbow fitting for clearance to adapt the gauge to the Renix rail. It would be a good idea to add your year and model specifics to your signature so we don't have to guess what you are driving. :thumbsup:

 

http://comancheclub.com/topic/44810-stalling-out-craziness/page-5

 

My valve cover is silver powder coated with the ribs polished natural.

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I also bought this setup of fittings. A 1/4" female flare to 1/8" NPT Female straight and a 1/8" NPT Female x 1/8" NPT Male Elbow. I did this since I can look at the guage better this way. I got these off of McMaster Carr. Around $12 total.

 

Part#: 6432T117

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/195/=su11cn

 

(Update... Bought the flare fitting and the threads are not deep enough to catch the threads on the fuel rail.)

 

Part#: 4452K471

 

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/4/=su11ql

Are these the part numbers I need?

He updated and says something didn't fit but didn't say if those part # have been corrected or not.

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