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Towing capacity


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The bumper is rated up to a 2000 pound trailer and 200 pound tongue weight. That information is stamped in the bumper.

 

Furthermore (from my 87 manual):

 

Class I hitch:

2000 pound trailer weight, 300 pound tongue weight.

For any engine or transmission.

 

Class III hitch

5000 pound trailer weight, 350 pounds tongue weight weight carrying or 750 pounds tongue weight weight distributing.

Needs 4.0 engine, automatic transmission with transmission cooler, power steering, heavy duty battery, cooling system and axle (Dana 44)

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The OEM bumper is rated to tow a wheel barrow......empty of course :roll:

 

It's really not a very heavy duty bumper, and if it's 20 years old.......no way.

 

This is what is looks like with the center support section off-

 

And yes, that's all sheet metal, no real structural steel there.

 

If you going to do amount of towing, either find a OEM trailer hitch or you cam buy new ones on e-bay, with the 2" receiver.

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THanks for the responses. I probably knew that. So, this leads me to another question. We're looking at getting a travel trailer which means a new pull vehicle because there will be at least 4 people traveling.

 

What would you recommend? I'm looking at a trailer 3500lbs and under.

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Depends! If its to flat land/beach/cross country RV spots a 2WD. If its to hilly/mt back country & off-road RV'ing I'd go with 4WD. Any SB extended cab or SUV, since there's 4 of U, would be more comfortable of course. If its one of the lighter camp trailers a 350/360 size engine would do the job and be more efficent in general (when your not towing) than a big ol 454 etc. For down the road tracking you can't be a 5th Wheeler. From experience I'v found the automatics of today, properly equipped with cooler, make it a much more pleasant trip towing anything, than with a stick shift. Some from the old school, & I was one of them, have stick shift inbred, but until you try it------. My fav all time tower was a 76 Jeep Cherokee 360/400 combo. That thing was like a cross bred mule-goat. Lock it up & it pulled trailers into and out of un-imaginable spots, especially in mud & snow situations. Right now I'm looking at buying a 99 Silverado ext cab 350 for towing a 24' camp trailer to Senior citz RV locals. It's an age related thing.

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If you're looking at 3500 pounds tops, like a pop up camper, any full size extended cab p/u or suv should be able to tow it just fine.

 

My 94 Suburban with a 350 I can't even tell towing 3000 pounds unless I look in the rear view mirror. 4000 pounds gets noticeable, but even 6000 pounds tows fine, if a little slower at steep grades.

 

I'll sell you my Suburban if you want it...

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The diesel 'Burbs can get 20 mpg, are 3/4 ton rated, and can be had for under 5 grand. I like having the extra capability-cushion when towing. Safety is important to me. When I can finally afford to buy a hauler, it'll either be a 'Burb or (if I can float $10k) a diesel Excursion. jamminz.gif

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Diesel Suburban. :D

10-4.

 

One of my friends in NAXJA bought a diesel Suburban for that exact purpose. It's a really nice tow vehicle, and it has plenty of room inside for a family of four (or, probably, even a family of six).

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What sort of gas mileage am I looking at? Now we're looking at a trailer around the 5000 lb size.
Depends on what you are driving...

My 2002 Dodge Ram gets between 9 - 11 MPG pulling a 5000lb trailer depending on the terrain we are on. If you get something with a diesel engine (which I highly recommend) you will get much better. My friends with diesels get 18 - 22 MPG pulling the same weight as me...and...they get 18 - 22 MPG just driving around town empty too ;) .

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Where's the pic of the MJ with a 5th wheel pulling a semi-trailer on the highway? jamminz.gif
Well, it's not a semi trailer, but I got this shot the day I picked up the new bed for JT's truck. They guy that sold him the bed owns this... :yes:

 

 

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