BPB Posted October 25, 2008 Share Posted October 25, 2008 First remove your wheels and drums. There is a tensioner bolt on the bottom of the shoe assembly. Turning this tensioner, which is a bolt with gears on it, counter-clockwise presses the shoes outward. I used vise grips to do this. Sprayed brake clean on everything. I expanded them until I could barely get the drums on. Then put them back together. On both Eric's 44, and my 35 the tensioner is on the bottom. Instantly we both noticed the difference upon stat up. The break pedals no longer sink when the vehicle starts. Also the e-brake works again. Now I need to say that this is a temporary fix to a bigger problem. This means that your auto tensioner is gummed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james750 Posted October 25, 2008 Share Posted October 25, 2008 Your brake pedal is supposed to drop as your system pressurizes and what your feeling when the brake pedal is firm is the pressure being released from the system. Not completely sure, but your drums could be rubbing pretty bad. :eek: But having e-brake actually work is definitely a nice improvement! :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 25, 2008 Share Posted October 25, 2008 But having e-brake actually work is definitely a nice improvement! :D Meh. I just throw out the anchor. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 should be able to adjust the rears with a screw driver through a hole in the back side of the backing plate. yes james is correct, the brake booster is a vacuum system so as there is vacuum (the motor running) then it will allow more force to be applied to the piston in the master while saving your legs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 when using the screw driver through the hole maneuver- is there a certain technique that should be used? like screw until tight and back off a 1/4 turn.... or something like that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvusse Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 First remove your wheels and drums. There is a tensioner bolt on the bottom of the shoe assembly. Turning this tensioner, which is a bolt with gears on it, counter-clockwise presses the shoes outward. The two wheels are mirror image. One is left hand thread, one is right hand thread. So while counter-clockwise will press the shoes outward on the one wheel, on the other wheel is will be clockwise. But a screwdriver through the access hole is easier indeed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 when using the screw driver through the hole maneuver- is there a certain technique that should be used? like screw until tight and back off a 1/4 turn.... or something like that? The way I was taught, and have alway adjusted the "self-adjusters" was to raise the wheel(s) off the ground, pull brake adjuster tool (screwdriver) down to tighten, up to loosen, and spin the wheel by hand (forward motion) until you achieve a 'drag' on the wheel, and the shoes will be properly adjusted. Adjusting the rear drums solves alot of braking problems, the "self-adjuster" just don't work like they should, and the rule of thumb is to check the drum brakes at each oil change ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james750 Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 Ive seen the adjuster, but I'm not sure how you adjust it through the hole with a screwdriver, d o you just spin the gear on it with a flatblade? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildman Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 Here's the write up on the drum brakes, for just the adjustment part, scroll down to the bottom of the article. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HOrnbrod Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 Just install disk brakes and forget about it. No more adjustments, no non-functional self-adjusters, no springs and lever hardware to rot out, it's a no brainer not to. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FxRacing282 Posted October 27, 2008 Share Posted October 27, 2008 Just install disk brakes and forget about it. No more adjustments, no non-functional self-adjusters, no springs and lever hardware to rot out, it's a no brainer not to. :cheers: agreed. even though ive heard they wear faster, way less trouble Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted October 28, 2008 Share Posted October 28, 2008 Just install disk brakes and forget about it. No more adjustments, no non-functional self-adjusters, no springs and lever hardware to rot out, it's a no brainer not to. :cheers: agreed. even though ive heard they wear faster, way less trouble main reason they wear faster is because they actually work :eek: drum brakes do very little, but do make a big difference when properly adjusted... but they NEVER wear out. it takes like 90-100k disk brakes in the rear should last 40-50ish depending on how you drive and what you drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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