Stumpy Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 took two control arms and welded them together to make one linger one. hopefullt these will last until i can buy real ones.. :bowdown: this is the one i got done tonite and am gonna get other 3 done tomorrow... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 They might crack. The stock ones are designed to flex... But hey, just keep an eye on them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 Good luck! Hope they work! Dirty, were you the one looking into links of piping? I wanna see how that works out. I keep thinkin about it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 They might crack. The stock ones are designed to flex... But hey, just keep an eye on them. This worried me as well...hope thay work out for you. Personally I would limit the flex they have to endour....IE NO OFFROADING!!! Good luck, CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 took two control arms and welded them together to make one linger one. hopefullt these will last until i can buy real ones.. :bowdown: this is the one i got done tonite and am gonna get other 3 done tomorrow... Stumpy... I must say this even scares me. And I have been known to do come crazy and stupid crap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 21, 2006 Share Posted June 21, 2006 Good luck! Hope they work! Dirty, were you the one looking into links of piping? I wanna see how that works out. I keep thinkin about it. Yes, and I'm still looking into it. For fixed length stock replacement control arms, you could get by with 2" sch40. Personally I think I'd use sch80... But, anything longer and you might as well use DOM, based on actual cost and the convenience of being able to thread the end for a joint. That doesn't mean I'm saying it won't work though. I've now seen enough examples to feel confident with pipe. Only thing is, use a larger dia. than would normally be used... The main reason I actually wanted to use pipe was so I could bend the arms for clearance. However, I can propbably make up to a 15* bend in DOM with a pipe bender without kinking it. That's all I need. (Tube benders are hard to come by, can't afford one yet.) If you're interested in the actual numbers on pipe (A-53), I can tell you that it is almost exactly half a strong as DOM if you were to use the same size and wall section. It is the SAME(give or take 5%) strength as HERW, CERW, ERW tubing. Contrary to popular belief, it is rated for structeral applications and is made to as high of standard as any other steel rated for structeral applications. That is, if you buy the right type (A-53, and a couple others that are hard to get, but stronger). At this point though, I'm looking to use square HSS. 2x2x.25, weld a deep azz 1" nut to the end, and you can run a 1" stud into it easy. I've seen this setup work on a rig that is heavier than mine, has more power, and is wheeled harder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 Lots of ppl are building links out of square tubing. They are also using YJ bushings, and pipe to make the ends. Very effective and stong. DOM is about $ 6.5 for 1.75x.25 And that would make a good link for a mild wheeler. I believe you could make a complete set of links with just one stick for around 125 for the tubing. The ends are where it can get expensive. DirtyManche, what kinda of suspension are you going to build? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 Stumpy Have you checked the arms to see if they would work like that??? When i first started my manche i thought to do this so I made them up and tried to put them on and they didnt work they bound up right above the mount on the axle. I had even put in a bend and tried it and still no go because the tube ones will acctually will clear the area where the stock ones hit. My problem now is trying to make some uppers but i just don't know how to make the axle mount. I had thoguht of doing what Stumpy had done and piece 2 together but i was thinking of adding 2X2 square tubing to the under side to make it more rigid so the weld don't flex as much. Does anyone think that might work?? Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 To make the top mount, I would use 2x2 tubing , and notch the axle end, and use tubing at the top with a factory style bushing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 Just to through this out there, but I remember reading of some lift manufacturers having issues with their prebent tubing arms bending on the trail. Plenty of gussets were added until they ironed out the problems. Can't remember who it was though. :???: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 Lots of ppl are building links out of square tubing. They are also using YJ bushings, and pipe to make the ends. Very effective and stong. DOM is about $ 6.5 for 1.75x.25 And that would make a good link for a mild wheeler. I believe you could make a complete set of links with just one stick for around 125 for the tubing. The ends are where it can get expensive. DirtyManche, what kinda of suspension are you going to build? Just going to stick with a radius arm setup in the front. They're proven and any moron can make them (suits me). The axle end will be the typical rubber LCA bushings for the uppers/lowers, or yj ones, depending on fit. The bushing where the upper connects to the lower will be another LCA/YJ one, with a 1" stud to allow adjustment. Frame ends will be curry johnny joints, again with 1" studs. Arm material will be 2x2x.250 HSS. I will have to build a new crossmember/skid for them to attach to. I also think I will be needing a YJ tranny so my tcase actually will clear where I want to put the mounts. And the rear will just be leafs for now, as I'd like to get it working again. This is all providing that the rusty's crap is sold (as it appears). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 Lots of ppl are building links out of square tubing. They are also using YJ bushings, and pipe to make the ends. Very effective and stong. DOM is about $ 6.5 for 1.75x.25 And that would make a good link for a mild wheeler. I believe you could make a complete set of links with just one stick for around 125 for the tubing. The ends are where it can get expensive. DirtyManche, what kinda of suspension are you going to build? Just going to stick with a radius arm setup in the front. They're proven and any moron can make them (suits me). The axle end will be the typical rubber LCA bushings for the uppers/lowers, or yj ones, depending on fit. The bushing where the upper connects to the lower will be another LCA/YJ one, with a 1" stud to allow adjustment. Frame ends will be curry johnny joints, again with 1" studs. Arm material will be 2x2x.250 HSS. I will have to build a new crossmember/skid for them to attach to. I also think I will be needing a YJ tranny so my tcase actually will clear where I want to put the mounts. And the rear will just be leafs for now, as I'd like to get it working again. This is all providing that the rusty's crap is sold (as it appears). Quick question for the uninitiated here.....what's unique about the YJ bushing? or is it the entire CA that's different? Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 YJs don't have control arms. They're leaf spring bushings.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 :oops: I get it now. Pay no attention to the clueless one from down here in VA..... thx, Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 Ok i get the tube and all that but what about the mount on top of the axle i still am not getting how that mount would be made. I think someone said take and notch the pipe to fit around where the mount is??? would that work. I'm just thinking the rear side of the UCAs is easy to do but the axle side is whats stumping me. I guess i just need a little more clarification on exactly what a good plan would be since everyone disapproved of stumpys and that is what i was going for. Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 Replicating the stock style of ear is the best method. I'd take some heavy channel and weld it to the end of the tube to create the ears. However, I don't intend to run that type of bracket on the axle. Like these: Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOMJ87 Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 Thanks but one more thing i would like your honest opinion on how you would do it and how thick do you think the channel needsa to be for the above post pic to be made????? Cole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted June 22, 2006 Share Posted June 22, 2006 .188 at least. I'd just go .250. It's not going to cost much, you could get all you need as scrap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jage Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 About the original post... The flex comes from the channel shape - what would you all think if stumpy boxed the full bottom? that way the stress isn't on the welds in the middle but carried through the full, now rigid, control arm? I'm thinking it would be more like building from scratch with square channel, and stumpy could watch for cracking along the boxing (non-critical failure) to indicate problems, as opposed to cracking along the join - which could easily become a critical failure of the whole member before noticed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stumpy Posted June 23, 2006 Author Share Posted June 23, 2006 i think the welds will hold i don't plan on wheelin it with the swaybar disconnected if at all until i get real control arms i just got tired of it feelin like a low rider at only 3" of lift..lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted June 23, 2006 Share Posted June 23, 2006 The problem with the way it is done is the fact that the weld will be stronger then the host material. Also the heat form the welding COULD cause weakness in the host material. I don't know how this would hold up, but for the lil bit of money he saved, I don't think it was worth the risk in my opinion. I would have felt better if he had plated all sides of his control arms, and drilled and rosette welded it as well as seamed welded it. Remember the longer the patch material is, and the more welded surface the better the repair Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stumpy Posted June 24, 2006 Author Share Posted June 24, 2006 since my coils won't be here in time for this weekend i think i gonna try what pingpong stated and add more metal to them since i just scored 3-4'x6' sheets of 1/8" steel. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted June 28, 2006 Share Posted June 28, 2006 Keep in mind that if you stiffen it up, it WILL try to flex somewhere and stiffening up only part of it will lead to stress risers and cracks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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