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Clutch Slave Cylinder


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My 86 Comanche has dripping fluid on the driver's side mat. The slave cylinder for the clutch was REALLY low, NOT empty. I filled it, but it needs to be replaced. Can anyone whoe's done R&R give me some guidence? It "looks" like a "simple" job, but we all know how that works. Thanx!!

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My 86 Comanche has dripping fluid on the driver's side mat. The slave cylinder for the clutch was REALLY low, NOT empty. I filled it, but it needs to be replaced. Can anyone whoe's done R&R give me some guidence? It "looks" like a "simple" job, but we all know how that works. Thanx!!

 

That'll be the master. Ive never attempted one but the general consensus is its a pain and if you're going to do the master, do the slave in the Trans too. If one goes, the other one is sure to follow. Hey from another cross-boarded IFSJA member too jamminz.gif

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its fairly easy. undo the hose or line the connects to it from inside the engine housing along with the resivoir. then disconnect the two bolts or however many it is from the fire wall, then disocnnect it from the pedal. put new one it. probabally gonna have to flush from the slave FYI.

be carefull with the fittings. i went to change my slave and the fitting was seized and nothing would take it off. so i figured oh no ill spend $3 and get a new line. well the other side was gnarly too. pb blast it! it works i swear.

bleed it like you would a caliper but the more you bleed it the better the pedal will feel. make sure you bleed it until the pedal goes ALL THE WAY BACK UP. or else youll find yourself grinding gears

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I cleaned up the fuse box as well as I could & stuck a plastic coffee "can" lid upsidedown under where it's leaking. I'll have to empty that every time I drive it....I CAN'T get a new cylinder for another week.....0 $$$ !!!!! Does the fluid short out the box or is it the carosive in the fluid?

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That's actually kinda dangerous to drive that way. You could lose your clutch completely at any time if the leak gets worse. :(

 

 

Brake fluid softens the plastic (causing it to sorta "melt" and become very brittle) and accelerates corrosion in the metals.

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I cleaned up the fuse box as well as I could & stuck a plastic coffee "can" lid upsidedown under where it's leaking. I'll have to empty that every time I drive it....I CAN'T get a new cylinder for another week.....0 $$$ !!!!! Does the fluid short out the box or is it the carosive in the fluid?

Both

 

But (as usual) I'm confused. Your title said "slave" cylinder, but it's the master cylinder that trashes fuse panels. What are you having problems with, the master, the slave, or both?

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There should be 2 screws holding the fuse box to the inside fire wall, and one "bolt" from the engine compartment, thru the connector into the back of the fuse box, IIRC it takes a 1/4" drive socket.

 

I would be better to remove the fuse box and inspect it for "hidden" damage.

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This afternoon when I started it to go home from work, the "battery" light was glowing. The more gas I gave it, it glowed brighter, and got dimmer when I let off. Could this be from the brake fluid dripping on the fuse box? It was really only dripping 2-3 days, about 1/2 of the volume of the cylinder was gone. Or maybe another problem......altenator??? :headpop:

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That would be from your alternator or voltage regulator.

 

The idiot light show when the battery is not being charged, and it gets brighter as you use more voltage, or taking more drain off the battery.

 

If the light remains on, your alternator is not charging, and your actually running the truck off the battery, that is until the battery goes dead.

 

So......if your home.....don't drive it, you'll brake down some where and be pushing the truck home :eek:

 

A quick check is to start the truck, and pull the positive connection off the battery post, if the truck died, it's your alternator.

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or to save time just take a multimeter, put it on 20V in DC power and black on black and red on red. it should be 14-16V. if its less then you either have,

A) Bad ground from battery- engine,fender, frame ect

B) Bad alternator. if its a bad alternator get one with a lifetime warranty and nothing less. put the receipt with your registration so when it breaks in 3 years you go back and get a new one and the receipt is right there.

C) Bad battery, could be a dead cell or something lame like that.

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I pulled the fuse box away from the firewall inside the truck. It has a pretty good amount of brake fluid in it. Is there anything I can spray in there to clean it up??? I can't get into the back part , all the wires can't be individually cleaned. Some pics...............

Is this some kind of electrical greese that should be there???? Pleas say yes?!?!?!??!

It doesn't "look" like the brake fluid seeped in?

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Yea, you can clean it with some "Contact Cleaner"

 

The grease should be in there.......it's "Die-elect Grease"

 

Both of these items you can get at the auto parts store......like Advance.

 

 

From your pictures......it don't look like the brake fluid from the master leaked on it too long, but don't wait too long to get it cleaned out.

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I think it was only leaking about a week. when I pulled it from the firewall it was dripping liquid thiugh. I got a can of electronic component cleaner that says it's safe for plastics & quick drying. I started giving it some blasts today...the box is still hanging in the truck & you need lot's of ventalation, so I'm don't want to fill the cab with fumes. I'll be spraying the rest of the week & hope for the best. Of corse I still have to replace the master cylinder before I put the box back in place.

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That sounds like good news :D

 

Yup, you caught it in time. The "electronic component cleaner" is just a fancy name for contact cleaner. You should only have to spray it once or twice, and I guest put some rags on the floor to catch the 'drippings' after that, any fluid that got into the circuit breaker box should be cleaned out.

 

Yea, it would be a good idea to replace the master before you put the box back together...........and don't forget to add some die-electric grease to the back of the box before you reconnect it to the engine harness. That will keep any moister and corrosion out of the connector.

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