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Posted

is there any front dana 44s that will bolt up to a comanche or are there any other axles that are better then the dana 30 that i could make work in it

Posted

Not really. Not any that will match the rear axle without a ton of effort at least. Something wrong with your '30?

Posted

Upgrade to the later model XJ shafts that run the bigger joints. If you've got the cash, I'd go aftermarket shafts with CTM joints. And if I had a welder, I might even ad a bit of a truss to the axle. But I'd be doing that more for fun than because I was worried about it. Unless you like to jump the truck... :D

Posted
Front TJ 44 $$$

 

...and about as useful as the box of rocks that I use to weight down the back of the truck in the winter.

 

a TJ front 44 uses dana 30 outer components and ujoints; i.e. you can buy one, for lots of $$$, but then you need to dump another grand into it to have it be worthwhile.

 

plus, IIRC, it's low pinion.

Posted

I am a jeep abuser and have hurt more then one d30 :oops: Here is what I now do to upgrade them. Obviously regear to your choice of ratios; but get a 30 spline locker for it :nuts: (same as a stock d44) Upgrade to a set of Alloy Usa shafts (or comprable other. Stay away from Yukon Broke one and wasnt even at the u-joint, was in the splines). Besides that the only other thing you get from a d44 is the Manual hubs, but there are conversion kits for that (pricey).

 

The problem with using a d44 for the front is except for a tj's you will have to weld mounts on. Also since the d30 is a hP running a LP d44 can cause other issues. If you run a HP d44 you are full width and that creates other problems as well.

Posted
Front TJ 44 $$$

 

...and about as useful as the box of rocks that I use to weight down the back of the truck in the winter.

 

a TJ front 44 uses dana 30 outer components and ujoints; i.e. you can buy one, for lots of $$$, but then you need to dump another grand into it to have it be worthwhile.

 

plus, IIRC, it's low pinion.

 

yes, $$$

Posted

If one went as far as chunking down $3K+ for a custom-designed plug & play DANA 44 front axle, which axle shop has the best experience and reputation for such a mod? What ratio would be best with dual DANA 44s?

 

:cheers:

 

Paul

Posted

That all depends on your wheeling habits, your tire size, and how much time the truck spends on the freeway.

 

I'd go with the JK rubicon axles before getting a custom front. Under 3 grand gets you the pair of axles (Dana 44 strength and with air lockers and 4.10s). But, they only come in 4.10 flavor, so that's a limiting factor depending on what you're looking for.

Posted
I'd go with the JK rubicon axles before getting a custom front. Under 3 grand gets you the pair of axles (Dana 44 strength and with air lockers and 4.10s). But, they only come in 4.10 flavor, so that's a limiting factor depending on what you're looking for.

 

I wonder how much fabrication it would take to make a JK front axle fit...

:bowdown:

Posted
I wonder how much fabrication it would take to make a JK front axle fit...

:bowdown:

It is essentially "bolt-on". You need to modify your steering (draglink) and trackbar, but everything else will "bolt-on".

Posted
I wonder how much fabrication it would take to make a JK front axle fit...

:bowdown:

It is essentially "bolt-on". You need to modify your steering (draglink) and trackbar, but everything else will "bolt-on".

A "JK" axle will bolt in? Isn't it 4" wider??
Posted

Isn't it the TJ axle that is the direct bolt-on? I already have a factory MJ DANA-44 in the rear, but always wanted a fontal '44. If the Rubicon '44 would work, I wouldn't mind splurging. But the aforementioned steering fabrication concerns me. Has anyone here on the Forum gone through this install?

 

:cheers:

 

Paul

Posted

Yes the WMS is 4" wider, and yes it has a different bolt pattern than the rear would. So your going to be wider in the front, and the bolt pattern is different. Enough reason for a lot of guys to not even consider the swap.

 

The control arm mounts all line up. The coil spring buckets are not in the correct place, but they can be made to work if you don't mind your coils not sitting 100% straight up and down. The easiest solution would be to move them inward (solves the trackbar issue now).

 

It can be made to work without moving the coil buckets, but the correct solution would be to move them inward. Than the only part needed to be made would be the draglink as the JK draglink won't work.

 

Also now to the best of my knowledge the JK axles are being sold new without bracketry. So you've either got to find a JK D44 front with everything on it, or put it on yourself.

 

Shown here in an XJ.

 

jk_xj_1.jpg

 

jk_xj_2.jpg

Posted

For the money you could find a HPd44 and 9" totally rebuild them and use TNT fron axle truss and have a better stronger setup then using JK axles.

 

The only problem with using a TJ d4 is it is LP, and with lifts over 6" you run into issues

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