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My 2wd drives like @#$^&*&^%#$#$@


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What should be the best thing to look at since my truck drives like my CJ with 35's on it did??? The steering is really really lose, it tracks like a bumper car, and very hard to keep going down the road straight!!! I know I need rear shocks but would rear shocks make that much of a diff??? When I had it up on blocks I could turn the wheel lock to lock and the body would shift, side to side at full lock, but the track bar is tight. The tie rods look good, just got them all greased up good. I can rock them back and forth (like twist them on the same axis as the wheels turn) They twist, but not anything like it shouldnt. Whats a good test of the ball joints?? Jacking the front end up checking for play????

 

UGHHHHH ..... I want a tight handling truck. I know they used to race these trucks on a track, but this truck is WAY lose...

ANY HELP????????? PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!

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Have you checked the Steering Stabilizer? The Stabilizer helps to control the willingness of the truck to hunt and wander on the highway.

 

To remove some of the looseness in the steering you will need to tighten the steering box a bit. There is a hex bolt on the side with a stud sticking through it that has a screwdriver slot in the end. Loosen the hex bolt and turn the stud with a screwdriver to the right to tighten it up. Only go 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time, it pretty sensitive.

 

To check the balljoints, raise one side of the truck til the tire is just off the ground. Place a crow bar under the tire at the 6:00 position and raise the crow bar you should be able to easily detect any slop in the ball joints.

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I had alot of play between the 12 and 9 0'clock position on my steering wheel and my truck wandered all over the place. My trac bar bolt at the frame end was loose. How are the bushings on your sway bar?

 

Ive seen this scenario all too often on many, many jeeps. I'd tighten the frame end of the trac bar down and go from there.

 

I usually tighten mine down 1-2 a year becaause it works itself loose over time.

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Thanks guys I will try to get to all these solutions this weekend.

 

Have you checked the Steering Stabilizer? The Stabilizer helps to control the willingness of the truck to hunt and wander on the highway.

 

I'm pretty sure it doesnt have a steering stabilizer on, so maybe thats it... Did 2wd's have that?

 

To remove some of the looseness in the steering you will need to tighten the steering box a bit. There is a hex bolt on the side with a stud sticking through it that has a screwdriver slot in the end. Loosen the hex bolt and turn the stud with a screwdriver to the right to tighten it up. Only go 1/4 to 1/2 turn at a time, it pretty sensitive.

 

I did do that, I will check again, but you say to turn the center stud right and tighten it,, Roger that..

 

 

To check the balljoints, raise one side of the truck til the tire is just off the ground. Place a crow bar under the tire at the 6:00 position and raise the crow bar you should be able to easily detect any slop in the ball joints.

 

Got it, I didnt check with a crow bar, but I kinda did an inspection on'em when I was redoing the brakes.. Will check that way too..

 

 

I had alot of play between the 12 and 9 0'clock position on my steering wheel and my truck wandered all over the place. My trac bar bolt at the frame end was loose. How are the bushings on your sway bar?

 

Ive seen this scenario all too often on many, many jeeps. I'd tighten the frame end of the trac bar down and go from there.

 

I usually tighten mine down 1-2 a year becaause it works itself loose over time.

 

 

I did check the track bar when I saw the body shift when it was up on blocks,but it "seemed" tight. I'm going to go ahead and tighten that bar to frame nut. I think I should jack it back up ad have someone turn lock to lock and see where all the movements coming from..

 

One more thing though,,, To check the rear shocks I pushed on the rear side of the bumper and noticed the truck kinda bounce around when I let go. This is a sure fire sign of shocks being blown(I was told long ago) But would the rear shocks cause alot of the undesirable mentioned symptoms?

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x3 on the frame mount of the trackbar...i didnt realize mine was look and i took my impact and they all were 1/4-1/2 turn loose....i pulled 1 out at a time and put some loc-tite on them and all is good

Did you replace the bushing? I saw some two piece ones for 10 bucks at rock wouldn't be a waste to change it would it?

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I didn't have shocks on the rear of my MJ for a year or so and the only time I noticed it was when I would roll over speed bumps. The back end would bounce like a low rider.

 

Didn't affect my steering at all.

 

Be careful when tightening the frame side trac bar bolt with an air ratchet, i've sheered several in half because of over tightening. While your under there you could tighten up your control arm bolts too, this may be affecting your steering situation.

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JT, I couldnt tell mine was loose either then it started making a loud clunk when i turned the wheel. I checked it again and it still felt tight. So we pulled the cotter pin and put a ratchet on it just to make sure and it turned out to be very loose. After tightening it felt like a new truck. My wife took it the store and when she came back she even asked what i had done to the truck.

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The body should NOT move relative to the axle when you turn the wheels. Since it's the track bar that prevents that lateral movement, if the body does shift when turning, you have a track bar (or bracket) problem. And that causes "vague" and sloppy steering, as well.

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x3 on the frame mount of the trackbar...i didnt realize mine was look and i took my impact and they all were 1/4-1/2 turn loose....i pulled 1 out at a time and put some loc-tite on them and all is good

Did you replace the bushing? I saw some two piece ones for 10 bucks at rock wouldn't be a waste to change it would it?

 

I'm actually talking about the bolts that attach the TB bracket to the frame

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Cool,,, Thanks fellows... I didnt even know the TB mount had any bolts.. I'll check it out tomorrow.. Also that ball jointed end of the track bar..

Time to refill my pb blaster bottle i guess

 

ok so tomorrows list is;

 


  • [*:2zymskoa]track bar bolts
    [*:2zymskoa]track bar mount bolts
    [*:2zymskoa]upper control arm bolts
    [*:2zymskoa]lower control arm bolts
    [*:2zymskoa]ball joints
    [*:2zymskoa]steering box adjustment
    [*:2zymskoa]steering stabilizer (I really don't think it even has one)

 

Anything else while I'm under there????

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Thanks guys I will try to get to all these solutions this weekend.

 

Have you checked the Steering Stabilizer? The Stabilizer helps to control the willingness of the truck to hunt and wander on the highway.

 

I'm pretty sure it doesnt have a steering stabilizer on, so maybe thats it... Did 2wd's have that?

 

Mine has one. There 's a bracket on the top of the passenger side axle tube for the body and a hole in the center of the steering link for the rod stud. I had to replace mine with a heavier duty unit than stock.

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Lack of a steering stablilizer will not cause this.

 

Bad rear shocks will not cause this.

 

As Eagle stated, any movement between the body and the axle is controlled by the track bar. This is where your problem is. Have somebody turn the wheel back and forth as you inspect the track bar. It should become pretty obvious where your problem is.

 

Willy

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Well just as yous said the ball on the trackbar was lose,,,, best thing is its spinning to,,,,,so............ :headpop: :headpop: :mad: :rant: :rant: :wall: :mad: :headpop: :evil: :grrrr:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I'm going to go price a new one from Advanced and see if I can just either cut the old one off or find a narrow enough pair of vise-grips to fit on the ball stud..... :headpop: :headpop: :mad: :rant: :rant: :wall: :mad: :headpop: :evil: :grrrr:

What a PITA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Since you're going to replace the track bar (good idea :D ) you also need to get a pickle fork to remove the tapered end. Drive it up in there between the TB and the frome then turn the nut at the same time (remove the cotter pin first of course), and it should pop right out. You'll need a BFH w. room to swing it.

 

BigW1204P.jpg

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Tried everything you guys suggested, except jacking the truck up. Pry bar between the mount and bar= no go,,,,, Tie rod separator = no go (theres really not that much room to swing my mini sledge)

My vise grips are just a tad to wide to fit in the space. I do have enough room for a saz all though!! :brows: But I'm going to try the jacking the front up at that point before I start to do surgery.

 

I'm going to the smokies tomorrow so I may not get a chance to do anything.

I did check Advanced for the part,, 27.?? for China made, Rock Auto had a Spicer for the same price.

 

Is spicer made in China???

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Can you get the nut off? Once you get the nut off just turn the wheel from lock to lock and it should drop right out. Thats how I got mine out.
Yeah man thats the thing, the nut is turning the ball joint inside the track bar.. I'll work it out, I just hope that makes her drive better instead of something else....
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Can you get the nut off? Once you get the nut off just turn the wheel from lock to lock and it should drop right out. Thats how I got mine out.
Yeah man thats the thing, the nut is turning the ball joint inside the track bar.. I'll work it out, I just hope that makes her drive better instead of something else....

Put a jack directly under the tie rod end and that "should" push the taper into the bracket hard enough to hold it from spinning while you remove the nut.

 

Remember that there's suppoesed to be a cotter pin through the stud and castle nut. I assume you either removed that already or it may have been AWOL. If the latter, that may explain the problem.

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Can you get the nut off? Once you get the nut off just turn the wheel from lock to lock and it should drop right out. Thats how I got mine out.
Yeah man thats the thing, the nut is turning the ball joint inside the track bar.. I'll work it out, I just hope that makes her drive better instead of something else....

Put a jack directly under the tie rod end and that "should" push the taper into the bracket hard enough to hold it from spinning while you remove the nut.

 

Remember that there's suppoesed to be a cotter pin through the stud and castle nut. I assume you either removed that already or it may have been AWOL. If the latter, that may explain the problem.

Gezzz E-man... Now if I left the cotter pin in there how would I've been able to put my gear wrench on it!!!!! lol... Yeah I pulled the cotter pin out,, It was a big PITA, because I was trying to bend the ends straight(with no success I should add) ended up just using some side cutting pliers and yanking it out bends and all... Now putting the cotter pin BACK in and bending the ends is going to be fun!! Theres not alot of room for my fat fingers in that mount.... :D

 

 

I hope I have a few mins in the morning before we head out to try the jack on it.. Well see............... ;)

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Got the new China track bar put in today,, and as I figured the hardest part was fighting the cotter pin...... Took it for a quick drive and she's still lose..... What would my next step be?? How exactly are you spose to tighten the gear box up?? I think its real sensitive isnt it???????

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First - be SURE that the steering wheel and front wheels are straight ahead. What you are adjusting is the worm gear operating clearance (lash), and there is more lash when it's off center so if you adjust it off-center, it's too tight across the center and it will damage the steering box.

 

Remove the air box to access the top of the steering box. You'll see a top cover held on with three bolts. In the center of the cover is a stud with a recess for a hex wrench, and a lock nut. That's the adjuster.

 

Unlock the steering column, but do not start the engine. The steering wheel has to be free to turn. Hold the adjusting screw with an Allen wrench and loosen the lock nut several turns.

 

Now ... use your left hand to turn the Allen wrench while with your right hand you grip the steering shaft just behind where it enters the box. Turn it gently back and forth. You'll feel where it's slack and when it engages and is actually trying to turn the front wheels. What you want to do is turn the adjusting screw down until that range of slack motion is almost completely eliminated. You need a little bit of "lash" to ensure that the box isn't binding. Don't forget, it gets hotter when you drive and clearances tighten up from the heat.

 

Once you have most of the slop adjusted out, hold the adjuster in position with the Allen wrench and tighten the lock nut. Replace he air box and test drive.

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