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My 2wd drives like @#$^&*&^%#$#$@


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First - be SURE that the steering wheel and front wheels are straight ahead. What you are adjusting is the worm gear operating clearance (lash), and there is more lash when it's off center so if you adjust it off-center, it's too tight across the center and it will damage the steering box.

 

Remove the air box to access the top of the steering box. You'll see a top cover held on with three bolts. In the center of the cover is a stud with a recess for a hex wrench, and a lock nut. That's the adjuster.

 

Unlock the steering column, but do not start the engine. The steering wheel has to be free to turn. Hold the adjusting screw with an Allen wrench and loosen the lock nut several turns.

 

Now ... use your left hand to turn the Allen wrench while with your right hand you grip the steering shaft just behind where it enters the box. Turn it gently back and forth. You'll feel where it's slack and when it engages and is actually trying to turn the front wheels. What you want to do is turn the adjusting screw down until that range of slack motion is almost completely eliminated. You need a little bit of "lash" to ensure that the box isn't binding. Don't forget, it gets hotter when you drive and clearances tighten up from the heat.

 

Once you have most of the slop adjusted out, hold the adjuster in position with the Allen wrench and tighten the lock nut. Replace he air box and test drive.

 

oh, usually i turn it 1/2 and drive it and feel it... maybe thats why the wheel stayed turning left and i hit a tree?

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First - be SURE that the steering wheel and front wheels are straight ahead. What you are adjusting is the worm gear operating clearance (lash), and there is more lash when it's off center so if you adjust it off-center, it's too tight across the center and it will damage the steering box.

 

Remove the air box to access the top of the steering box. You'll see a top cover held on with three bolts. In the center of the cover is a stud with a recess for a hex wrench, and a lock nut. That's the adjuster.

 

Unlock the steering column, but do not start the engine. The steering wheel has to be free to turn. Hold the adjusting screw with an Allen wrench and loosen the lock nut several turns.

 

Now ... use your left hand to turn the Allen wrench while with your right hand you grip the steering shaft just behind where it enters the box. Turn it gently back and forth. You'll feel where it's slack and when it engages and is actually trying to turn the front wheels. What you want to do is turn the adjusting screw down until that range of slack motion is almost completely eliminated. You need a little bit of "lash" to ensure that the box isn't binding. Don't forget, it gets hotter when you drive and clearances tighten up from the heat.

 

Once you have most of the slop adjusted out, hold the adjuster in position with the Allen wrench and tighten the lock nut. Replace he air box and test drive.

So better to do this after a drive?

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I believe if the screw bottoms out before the slop is out it means your steering box is shot. Hopefully eagle or somebody will confirm if this is correct or not.

Absolutely, positively, beyond any shadow of a doubt correct.

 

If the adjuster screw bottoms out and you still have slop, the box is toast.

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So should I drive it a bit to let it warm up before I do the adjustment???

 

No, you can adjust it cold, no warm up necessary. Follow E-man's instructions, if no improvement and you bottom out, it's steering box replacement time mate. How many miles on your rig BTW?

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So should I drive it a bit to let it warm up before I do the adjustment???

 

No, you can adjust it cold, no warm up necessary. Follow E-man's instructions, if no improvement and you bottom out, it's steering box replacement time mate. How many miles on your rig BTW?

 

190k ?? :hmm:

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I replaced my steering box at 120K, so you're probably due..............

 

Especially if a PO was cranking over enthusiastically on the worm gear adj. screw. :eek:

 

Geeezus will the insanity ever end??? I should just go buy me a new Bugatti Veyron..... I might just come out ahead... :roll:

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Geeezus will the insanity ever end??? I should just go buy me a new Bugatti Veyron..... I might just come out ahead... :roll:

 

No, you won't come out ahead; they prolly break more than our simple MJs. :D The steering box's just flat wear out eventually, in all vehicles. There are upgrades out there, like the Dakota, Jeep J10-20, and GM quick steering boxes, but not needed if you spend most of your time on-road. Just get a good remanufactured box, and slap it in. Not too hard to do. :cheers:

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It ain't over 'til it's over.

 

My '88 MJ had less than 100k when I bought it, and the steering box was toast. Bottomed out the screw and made NO improvement.

 

My '88 XJ is at 277k, has the original steering box, and it has never been touched. It's all a function of how badly previous owners abused it.

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I replaced my steering box at 120K, so you're probably due..............

 

Especially if a PO was cranking over enthusiastically on the worm gear adj. screw. :eek:

 

Geeezus will the insanity ever end??? I should just go buy me a new Bugatti Veyron..... I might just come out ahead... :roll:

 

 

don't get a flat tire because it will run you like $20,000 to fix thats like 5 good mj's

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