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Chico's 1988


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Thread is under construction.

 

This thread is more for myself at the moment because when asked the other day I couldn't remember if something had been done or not causing me to ransack a manila folder I have that didn't even contain the answer I needed.

 

I'm not really going into detail on what I've done since August of 2007 except post a couple pics and write down what has been replaced.

 

Some of the repairs were done by myself and others by worthless mechanics. The DIY parts were done with the help of Alldata.com and the wonderful members of this club. Once again, thanks to everyone who helped me out this far. I'll probably forget half the stuff I've done due to the lack of receipts so I'll be adding crap as I remember.

 

The 1988 4.0 AW4 LWB was purchased August 16 2007 off of eBay.

It had roughly 210,00 miles.

The pictures on eBay looked good. It was advertised as recently painted, with everything in good working order.

Not so much.......

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Looked pretty good. Auction ends, I show up with the money and everything is not as described.

The new paint job I believe was done with a roller. The interior looked well worn (it was to be expected) but what really killed me was the smell of $#!& that came with it. Oh well, I took it home and started my project.

 

August 24, 2007 Before I found this site I took my cars to a couple differnt mechanics. I dropped the truck of with one and told him to give it a good look over.

Front calipers were on upside down. Both front brake lines were replaced. Passenger front u-joint was shot. Both were replaced.

Transfer case fluid replaced.

Transmission flushed, pan removed, no debris was found.

Replaced filter kit, cleaned pan and system refilled.

There was a noice coming from the front of the engine.

Harmonic Balancer replaced.

 

September 20 2007

The $#!& hit the fan.

The PO had the horn wired to a seperate button on the dash because the original was not working. What actually happened was that the wires in the steering culumn got old and lit up. This burnt the whole interior and under harness to one big plastic and wire mess :headpop:

A used harnes was pulled out of a 1988 Cherokee. Dismantling and instalation took me close to 100 hours :eek: I can probably do it again in 5. The only set back was that the connect on the interior harness that goes to the fuel pump and rear lights is differnt causing me a good week of headaches trying to splice wires.

Replaced part of the rear brake lines after a section blew.

Replaced all exterior light bulbs.

 

September 26 2007

Truck is back on the road. DW has appeared. Steering box was adjusted due to play in steering wheel. Found the track bar was junk.

New track bar.

 

September 27, 2007

Vibs are still there. Found out front brakes were locked up.

New master cylinder.

 

October 24 2007

Replaced all the emission hoses with parts from NAPA.

(I'm going to switch em out again. I don't like the quality)

 

Put in a full gauge cluster.

Changed the temp sender on the back of the head.

Added the oil pressure sender by the filter.

 

November 2 2007

New TPS, adjusted it with instuctions on CC.

New O2 sensor.

 

November 8 2007

New spark plug wires

Distributer cap

Rotor

Spark plugs

 

November 28 2007

Went to replace thermostat and found there was none. :nuts:

New thermostat.

New CTS

New Knock sensor

 

December 1 2007

Replaced 6 relays in the engine bay

 

December 4 2007

New electric fan switch

 

December 10 2007

New CPS

 

January 14 2008

New injectors from Precision Auto

 

January 21 2008

DW's back. Balanced the tires. Found two wheels to be bent causing the vibes.

 

January 28 2008

New MAP sensor

New MAT sensor

 

February 16 2008

New Monroe sensa-trac shocks

 

March 14 2008

Bought a set of used wheels from LEAD not FOLLOW.

Had the truck alligned and wheels balanced. No more DW. :D

Here's the pic

 

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We're pretty much up to date.

A couple current problems have popped up.

 

Problem #1: The truck is running above 210* but under 225*.

Possible solutions include flushing out the system replacing hoses and changing out my plastic expansion tank for an aluminum one. We'll see how that goes.

 

Problem #2 When I went to remove the carpet to replace the interior parking brake cable I found an extreme amount of rust. As I pulled out the carpet a couple of pieces of the floor board went with it. :headpop:

Haven't decided yet but it's either going to get fixed with POR-15 and tape, or new pieces will be welded on.

 

I'll post pics in a while.....

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Ordered some parts today for my cooling issue.

 

From Teamcherokee.com

Heater conrol valve= $39.95

http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/Detailed/847.html

 

Heater hoses w/tee= $84.95

http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/Detailed/1763.html

 

From Mac's

Aluminum expansion tank= $122.00

http://www.macsradiator.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=28&HS=1

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I seem to remember your temp gauge reading hot despite trying a number of gauges (and sending units) even though laser thermo said temp was fine.

 

Did something change since then?

 

 

Oh, and sorry for butting in, but I couldn't let you talk to yourself forever...

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I seem to remember your temp gauge reading hot despite trying a number of gauges (and sending units) even though laser thermo said temp was fine.

 

Did something change since then?

 

 

Oh, and sorry for butting in, but I couldn't let you talk to yourself forever...

 

Yeah, well I started blowing coolant out of the top of the expansion tank and I hit it with the laser thermo again and the outside of the thermostat housing is reading 217* to 225*. The engine bay is noticeably hotter now and due to the lack of carpet/insulation I can feel every degree :headpop: :grrrr:

 

Anyway, the system's not under pressure anymore so I'm sure that's one cause of my engine running hot. What's upsetting though is that this is my 3rd plastic tank bottle with the same issue causing me to believe that maybe, just maybe, I might have a blockage problem somewhere. Anyway the good news is ,all that's left in the coolant system if this doesn't work out is a new radiator and waterpump :brows:

 

And hey MV, thanks fer cutting in, I was starting to get cotton mouth. :D

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when you spliced the cherokee harness to the comanche rear harness did you have to use a taillight converter? i just swapped everything from a 94 ho into mine and even with a converter my taillights are not working right.

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when you spliced the cherokee harness to the comanche rear harness did you have to use a taillight converter? i just swapped everything from a 94 ho into mine and even with a converter my taillights are not working right.

 

No convertor cause I've never even heard of it. If you want I can go wire by wire showing where everything went. One of the wires actually ends up getting sent thru the connector on the steering culumn. :nuts: The only reason I got it working right was because I called this little old man that lives on top of a hill smoking weed all day. He can't help anymore, deader than a door nail :cry: Let me know if you need help. You only live 30 minutes from me if you need to actually see it. I'm right off the turnpike on the west side of the Sesquahana river. (I have no idea if I spelled that right.)

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One of the wires actually ends up getting sent thru the connector on the steering culumn.

Would be the wire that lights up the tail lights when you hit the brake? I did basically the same swap (92xj to 92mj) and also had to run a wire to the steering column. Even with a fsm around it took a while to figure out what the problem was and how to fix it.

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One of the wires actually ends up getting sent thru the connector on the steering culumn.

Would be the wire that lights up the tail lights when you hit the brake? I did basically the same swap (92xj to 92mj) and also had to run a wire to the steering column. Even with a fsm around it took a while to figure out what the problem was and how to fix it.

 

That one I think went somewhere behind the fuse box. To be honest it was a disaster. All is working now though. Like I said I'd have to look at it all again but if anyone needs help, let me know.

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OK, the wire coming out of the bottom of the brake switch on the pedal goes to the steering culumn. If you're under the culumn there is a conector on the passenger side. The wire closest to the steering wheel is where the wire is spliced to. On my coonector the color of the wire is white. I had to buy it brand new from NAPA because my original one melted, so I don't know if that's the stock color. Let me know if that helps or if you need something else.

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Well, got all the parts in. Had to go pick up a resorvoir tank and some rubber hose.

From Napa Overflow tank=$10.00

 

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=BK&PartNumber=7304514&Description=Radiator+Coolant+Reservoir+-+Universal

 

I also bought about 15 feet of 3/8" rubber hose. I have no idea how much I'll need but I'll measure it when I do it.

I used PIKE's link. Guess where the overflow bottle was made. :mad:

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If you mean puuting the gear indicator onto yuur new cluster, it's easy.

 

Take it off your old one, cut the tach on the new one and screw it in.It's connected to a cable that clips to your steering culumn. You're going to have to cut a square on the bottom of the new cluster to put the cable thru.

 

I wouldn't do it again though. I'm actually changing it to a set-up Hornbrod has. The reason being is that the cable and clip are 20 years old and don't read the right gear ever because they've been played around with so much. I guess you could replace the cable and clip, but I like how Hornbrod's looks cleaner.

Here's Hornbrod's pic

 

 

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