troy6187

I was working on my mj for the first time in awhile today. I gutted the interior to clean out mud from the last offroad trip n to fix the leaky sunroof. The truck has been parked nose down on a small incline for a few months. I had a small oilly mess in the bed when it was parked. As soon as i pulled the carpet up i found some small wet oily spots on the back cab wall! Apparently the oil mess in the bed was running out the drains in the front of the bed onto the top of the frame rail and up against the back of the cab. The factory seam sealer must not be applied all that well cuz that is where the leaks are coming from. And the truck has been covered because i knew the sunroof leaked and did not want my new floors to rust. Now i guess the bed needs to come off and all the lod sealer removed and replaced. Yay!!!! This is a warning to everyone that is getting a wet floor and cannot figure out where it is coming from... Check the seams on the back wall!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm currently running this tb. The tre is replacable with a stock jeep tre. I have not had any issues with it and ive been using it for two years now.

The only part of the xj rear harness you will need are the plugs that plug into the dash harness and about a foot of wire... The same for the mj dash harness. You said that you had the wiring diagrams so as long as they are accurate, it shohld be fairly simple to put together. and you are right, because mine is from a ho it will be a little different than yours. I'm off work tomorrow and need to work on it anyways, so i will pull the jumper out And post the details. I can't promise any pics but ill try. And typing all this on the fone isnt too bad... Touchscreen and a fullkeyboard help. :)

I went thru this when i put everything from the dash forward from a 94 xj in my 88 mj. I made a pigtail just how u decribed so i did not need to cut either harness. If u have wiring diagrams and the old harness' to rob the needed conne tors from your set. You will also need to run a wire from the brake light switch to the turn signal switch. Mj's have combined brake and turn lights where as xj's have separate lights. All you do is run a wire from the. Brake light wire in the plug going to the rear to the body side of the plug for the turn swich. I'm typing this on my i fone so i can't post pics. If you really need me to i can pull the jumper harness and tell you wire by wire but that is gonna be alot on the fone. That said, i will do what i can to help out a fellow jeeper and especially a fellow mj addict.

Like i said above... Search on naxja or gojeeps site

I would not have suggested the taurus fan if it would not fit. Many people have been using these in xj's for years. Granted, its not a drop in relplacement, but they can be used. Early to mid 90's taurus' with the v6 came with the 2-speed fans. Search on naxja or visit gojeeps site for write-ups. The 2-speeds get wired like any other fan. There sre just two circuits to wire instead of just one. And the high speed needs an 80 amp relay. There is not an aftermarket fan that pulls near the same cfm as these fans. If this is something you look for on ebay make sure it is a stock replacement fan. Some of the cheap replacements are not two speed.

I went through something like this when i had my xj with a sbc. I used a three core brass and copper radiator From a bronco ll with a v6. On the road or idling it never went over 180-200 depending on outside air temp. Offroad however it would overheat in 15 minutes. Make sure all the airflow from the grill is going through the rad. Block off unneccesary holes in the rad support. You will also definately need to find a way to let hot air out of the Engine bay. Space the back of the hood up, install vents, or a scoop of some kind. And as far as the electric fan debate? You can't beAt the two speed fans from a ford taurus!

I run mud king tires. They are made by bfg but are only about 150 a tire for 35s. They ride decent and last for about 35,000 miles. That includes heavy offroad use. I ran procomps mts before these and didnt like the ride or wear. They are very noisy on the Road though.

if your looking for wiring diagrams check out great lakes xj site. he has multiple fsm ready to download. 95 is one as well as 88 i beleive. if those links don't work anymore i do have them on my pc.

any time man. this problem drove me bat$#!& for 2 weeks bfore chico told me how to fix it. of course the wiring diagrams i have now would have been very handy then! letme know if it works out for ya

tying the brake lights into the turn switch is the only way to stop the brake lights from overriding the turn signals. if you look at the comanche harness and a similar xj one you will c that the mj uses all ten pins and the xj only uses 9. being as you have the chrysler column I'm not sure how it would work. that column was never used in a mj or waggy. take a look at the plugs and count wire on both sides. if there is one extra coming out of the column that stops at the plug that should be what you need to tie the brake light wire into.

is there an extra wire that is not used maybe?

tie the brake light wire into the white wire in the turn signal switch plug. my brake light wire is white with a tan stripe. if you look at the plug for the turn switch you will see that it has ten wires coming out of the column and only 9 leading away from the column. i used a wire tap to hook mine up or you could try to add the pin to the plug.

i just left the renix pump in the tank and hooked that up. been working like that for over 6 months.

sorry bout no pics yesterday... broke the camera. if you call me later this afternoon i can give you the wire colors, etc. if you have any other questions feel free to call as i won't be anywhere near a pc. chipped spider gears in my 8.8 means spending the day regearing it and reinstalling it. yay! 456s!

[ That's what I'm doing....I'm running an HO pump assembly from a longbed in my Renix. Just gotta remember that "empty" = full tank, and visa versa ;) Jeff that confirms that i need to buy a newer sending unit to have an accurate gauge. switching the wires makes it swing the correct way but resistance differences make it float. 75+ miles after it hits empty

you don't wanna switch the wires for the pump just the sending unit. and you don't even need to do that, if you don't the gauge swings backwards. so when full it reads empty and the low fuel light will come on. possibly a theft deterent if you keep it full or close to full all the time :idea: when i started that project i figured it would be a stright swap... it turned into alot more. but it sounds like you have everything you need so shouldnt be that bad. ill post pics tomorrow as soon as i can of the wiring.

the door jamb switches for the dome lights are different. renix uses a one wire switch that breaks ground and ho uses multi wire switches. and the ho ones are bigger and will not just screw into the existing hole. easy fix though, just drill the hole a little larger and retap for the bigger switch. cherokees have separate brake and turn lights in the rear and comanches are combined. this is also an easy fix, the turn signal switch is used to combine the two. all you do is run one wire from the brake light switch to the turn signal switch plug. i fought with this for awhile until chico pointed me in the right direction. alot of the small things that plug into the harness like speakers and courtesy lights also have different plugs. the only differance in the heaer box is the temp sensor for the ac. if you don't have ac then its not neccesary. you will also need to reverse the two fuel gauge wires where they come out of the tank so the gauge will swing in the right direction. it won't be real accurate but it will swing correct. I'm not sure when the change was for this so maybe a ho mj sending unit may fix this. not sure. this list keeps growing as i remember more stuff. 717-635-0444.... mike call me anytime tomorrow or saturday if you have any questions or need a better explanation of something. ill answer what i can but sometimes its easier talking so someone than typing.

i did this with 94 parts. i will look in the morning and take pics and get wire colors for you. when i did mine i made a jumper that went between both harness' so i didnt have to cut either one. you will also need to run a wire to the turn signal switch for the brake lights. did you know that you have to change the pedal assembly and wiper motor aswell for this swap? and the newer door switches won't fit either. ill get pics and details tomorrow and post up. if needed i can give you my # and we can discuss details. it turned into alot more than i ever expected but was well worth it i also have pdf files for a 88 and 95 fsm. i beleive i got them from great lakes xj site. let me know and ill do what i can

the rk kit is great. ive been running this for almost 2 years and no issues. it flexes like mad and the only thing that limits it is your shocks and steering. I'm sitting a 6 inches with stock steering right now and can completly unseat a coil spring when fully flexed. the arms and brackets are huge!!!

that is the same sunroof that is in my truck but i don't think its factory. i've also seen them in fords and chevies. if it is factory thats even better

the use of a stock 4.0 rad is not going to be enough to keep the sbc cool when off road. onthe highway it should be fine. i tried a three core one a little larger than a stock v6 one and it would idle all day or while moving faster then 25. wheelin was a very different story though... even with a mechanical fan and shroud plus an electric fan as well as a custom cowl induction hood it would not stay cool. the only way i can guarantee it will stay cool is to put the rad in the bed. This is exactly how i fixed the problem on my cheromanche. there is just not enough room up front for a large enough radiator to keep a sbc cool.

wheel spacers or less backspacing put the same amount of stress on the unit bearing. this is because both methods are moving the wheel centerline outward from factory adding additional stress. either way is ok as long as the spacers used are good quality and installed properly. hubcentric spacers are the best way to go if you have the money.

you have not been wheelin if you have never tried to drive through a 7 or 8 foot tall snow drift thats 20 feet wide. some of the best wheelin i have ever dun was in the snow. plus its not as bad for your mj as the mud is. you don't have to wash it off and it dsnt act like sand paper or get into stupid areas. and i would like to know where in central pa we had 4 inches of snow. i live in the northern tip of dauphin county and we only got about 1inch. I'm hopin we get enough to go wheelin in soon. my first ever trip to RC will prolly end up being this winter in the snow.

the tensioner for your timing chain may be shot allowing the chain to smack the case. my 86 sounded like that until i put a new chain and tensioner in.