Renegade

Yup. I know of several that had to have updated, harder studs installed.

I was always a fan of NGK's, but so far, the Champions are working for me.

I just installed 4.10's today. Running 32's with the Renix 4.0, auto. It didn't like overdrive before & now it rolls along nicely. Won't win a drag race but it's liveable. I really wanted 4.56's, but I scored a free R&P from a friend's YJ that got 4.88's. Gotta love freebie's.

This can also come into play when installing a lift. I recently installed Rusty's 4.5" leaf packs & have noticed an intermittent"dragging" feeling when rolling to a stop. I thought it was the brake drums getting out of round. I had the driveshaft out today while swapping gears & noticed the u-joints were loose with just a slight angle, but got REAL tight just past the point where they were used to running. I greased them & worked them a bunch to free them up & it now rolls smooth. They just never had to deal with that much angle before. Shouldn't matter but I guess they get "seated in" over time.

You won't find many people who prefer the 6.0's over the old 7.3's. I've noticed the dealers really make it known if they get in a used 7.3 Super Duty & they sell QUICK. I think even they can't argue it's a more reliable motor.

I tried about 4 different types of plugs in my 2.5 in the TJ. Splitfires, Bosch platinums, etc. Just didn't run right. I talked to an experienced engine builder I know & he told me to run the OEM plugs & ONLY the OEM plugs. I went back to them & it runs better on the plain old Champions. Must depend on the ignition somewhat. I had a built 350 chevy in a mud basher that really woke up when I threw in some NGK's. Had a fuel injected Harley that gained noticeable power by running the Screamin' Eagle Splitfires.

I've never seen a jack in any vehicle worth 2 cents.

They don't grow corn in the Bahamas? :D

Man I love this website. Found an old aftermarket tach today & want to put it in the MJ. Had an idea which wire was which but wanted to be sure so I was gonna post up to ask, when VIOLA! here it already is :D I got a blue wire as well. I assume that would be for the light in the tach.....

That's what I was thinking. A lot of truckstops have scales, & if you're not in the big city, check with a grain company. Anyone that buys grain from farmers will have a scale. I took my truck & gooseneck with my TJ loaded up to our local grain company to weigh it. Needed to find out if I needed heavier licence plates on the truck. Squeeked by with 400 pounds to spare

Our club wheels on some private land. One of the owners has a Sammy with those tractor tires & it's almost unstoppable, but he loves the stupid pedal :brows:

http://www.anvari.org/fun/Ethnic_Chines ... ation.html

As far as a drop pitman arm, if you didn't install a drop bracket for the track bar on the frame end, you shouldn't need a drop pitman arm. No matter how much lift you run, the original parallelism should stay close to the same, no matter the angle.

Well time for me to hang my head in shame. I don't know what I did(just a brain fart I guess). I rechecked the toe-in today & I had it set at 1/8" toe-OUT. oops :oops: After a quick adjustment it still feels funny but not as bad. I know the castor isn't what it should be either, but I've seen worse. Just can't figure how it went from driving so perfect to "white knuckle" by doing nothing more than swapping in the new ball joints. It drove better with the front tire flopping around :nuts:

I had a friend do it that has a small garage with a frame lift. Trust me. He has a clue. Been the best jeep mechanic around my area for years. He does not have an alignment rack. I told him I would take care of it. After all, I had it driving perfect before. It drove straighter than my 2006 chevy. Only thing wrong was the uppers were wore out, so I changed all 4 while it was apart. 1/8" too much? That's what I always shoot for. Usually works good. I actually had it set at 3/16 in before & it was perfect, but I didn't drive it long enough to check tire scrub. What you guys set'em at? 1/16 or less? I don't really think it's a castor problem. The lowers are longer than stock & the axle is layed back pretty good. The "return to center" is very good & it will usually disappear with insufficient castor. Thanks for the reply's.I guess I'll have to put it on a rack to know for sure. Was hoping to get by on the cheap :roll:

Just got the truck back from having new ball joints installed(uppers & lowers). The toe-in was way off so I set it to 1/8" in. It drives straight but will suddenly lurch right or left for no reason, & the steering wheel feels real funny when I try to correct it. Kinda how it feels when the fluid gets air in it(like when you first prime a new gearbox). The wheel feels like it is trying to turn on it's own. It doesn't death wobble, it just veers sharply to one side or the other. I have a new lift & trackbar & everything is tight. Even swung by the dealership & had a mechanic look underneath while I seesawwed the steering. Nothing loose. I'm wondering if it's possible to blow out internal seals or something inside the gearbox that could be letting fluid pass where it shouldn't be causing the eratic movements. The wierd part is it seems it's worst at 30-35 going through town :nuts:

What type of terrain you wheel on? You can get by with less if your not on big rock. Common around my area to run hi-pinion D30's with 36's. Most guys swap them into TJ's. BUT, we have mostly woods trails & mud. I personnally wheeled the stock lo-pinion D30 in my TJ with 4.88's, a lock-right, stock shafts, & 36" SX's for over a year without problem. I sold it to a guy with a similar setup & it's still going. If you can afford it, get a 44, but if on a budget, stick a little money in the 30 & just remember what you have before you smash the throttle ;)

The only 3/16 line I had went to the hot-air intake assembly that pulls heated air off the manifold in cold temps. I had 2 other lines that passed around the airbox & I have no idea what they are for, but they are still hooked up. If you have a line hissing, it's a vacuum line that should be coming from the intake manifold, so you need to cap it off. I did notice a difference on low end, but I haven't swapped out the restrictive muffler yet. I suspect that will help a bunch. I didn't install the intake for performance(but I'll take it). I just wanted to eliminate the bulky stock airbox.

Cool. I really didn't want to waste any money on the 35. Thanks.

I am swapping to 4.10's in my D35. Got a good gearset for free from a '94 YJ axle. Will my current 3.55 carrier work? I always thought the cutoff was 3.55 & down, 3.73 & up but I just don't remember :nuts:

Get your battery checked. Might have spiked & caused a meltdown, but if it still cranks it's probably not that. More likely your voltage regulator failed & shot too much juice to the rotor.

I agree & disagree. Coil suspensions definitely need'em. Yet they are useless on a leaf setup since the suspension itself is so rigid. Just the companies covering their a$$es IMO. Only reason I asked is since we have leaf packs in the rear it might be liveable & relatively safe. As far as liability goes, as soon as the lift was added your a$$ is grass anyway in most states. For the record, I found some spare end links I had & hooked it up. The handling is definitely better & it's there to stay.

I live in the stone age. No digital camera or camera phone. I'll try to clarify a bit. One of the 1/2" hard plastic lines runs from along the driver side fender then makes a hard 90 toward the engine, then another hard 90 forward. I cut it off halfway between the 90's & ran a short hose from there to the rear nipple on the Rusty's tube. The other 1/2" hard plastic line comes from the valve cover. I cut it off there. It also runs through a support bracket along with several other lines. I just hacksawed it off on each side of the bracket. Now run a 2 ft piece of hose from the elbow you have on the valve cover to the front nipple on the Rusty's intake. Both lines should make a nice gradual "S" with the intake in the middle when your done. The small 3/16 line you need to remove also goes to the above mentioned support bracket where you can simply pull it off & cover the nipple with a vacuum cap. I hope this made sense.I did it a bit differently than recommended, but it works great.

Finally got the MJ to a point I could take it for a short test drive with the new lift. I haven't reconnected the swaybar yet & I really didn't miss it. It did body roll a bit in tight turns, but nothing scary. I realize in an emergency manuever it could make a big difference, but I'm used to tall trucks & their quirky handling. Anybody just do away with it? Even without it it still doesn't bodyroll NEARLY as much as my TJ on 36's with 7.5" lift & no rear swaybar....of course I'm not sure it's sane to drive that thing faster than 35.

The small 3/16 tube that goes in the back can just be pulled off the nipple it's attatched to & put a vacuum cap over the nipple. The filter & intake tube fit fine, but the 2 larger hard plastic lines were nowhere near lining up with the nipples on the Rusty's tube. I hacksawed 'em off & ran some 1/2'' rubber hose to replace what I cut off. The front tube goes through a junction block dealie. I just cut it off both sides & ran the hose straight from the valve cover. Took about 2 feet of hose for this. Damn I wish I could post pics. It's so obvious when I pop the hood :roll: