summerinmaine

Just turned over 298,500 this last weekend. But less than 5K in the last two years.

Check yer PMs.

Let me guess . . . you have looooooooooonnnnnnnnngg winters in Wisconsin, right? :brows: Very cool, BTW. :thumbsup:

Way cool! :banana:

I've heard that regearing give the most "bang for the buck" and I don't dispute that, necessarily. The question is "how much bang and how many bux" are we talking about? I've been thinking of regearing to 4.10s since I put on the 31s, and holding off on the stroker, but I'm getting quotes of $1-1.3K to regear (since, out here, a used D30 with a 4.10 goes for $5-600), and a stroker might not cost more than $1.8K, since I can do a fair amount of the work myself. I get the impression that many of you are thinking $5-600 for a total regear, and if so, I want some of what you're smoking! :thumbsup:

Sure! Won't cost (me) nothing! :yes:

Another thing I did was took a 12GA barrel cleaning bore brush and a can of carb cleaner to the port holes in the head, and same with the fuel rail. I also replaced the quick connects in the fuel line and return line with new clips and o-rings. That was the hardest parts finding the right "gas proof" o-rings at advanced.. Yeah the dealer sells the whole kit to replace the quick connects and o-rings, but wanted 20 bucks for each kit.. :shake: The quick connect are 3/16 fittings you can get from the "help" section and the o-rings came in a variety pack which also had a o-ring for the fuel pressure regulator. It'll take 3 o-ring packs to completely replace the o-rings in the quick connects/fuel lines/pressure regulator. We don't have "Advanced" out here AFAIK, just AutoZone, Pep Boys, and the like, so I'm not sure what the "help" section is all about. Do you have a maker/part number for the fittings that I can look up on-line, or can you post a pic? Thanks.

Are they "plug-n-play" for our rigs, or do you need to fiddle new connectors?

:agree: BUT . . . here in Kalifornistan, passing the smog test means having all the original equipment (visual inspection) as well as the tailpipe sniffer emissions test. Don't know what it's like in your state, but I would check first.

Sounds a bit like the rod knock I've got (only lasts about 5 sec on start-up however). But with 300K on the motor, can't complain. BTW I use 20-50, but it's pretty temperate down here.

:clapping: :clapping: :clapping:

13-13.5 in desert running (20-30mph, 4WD, low range) and 15.5-16 hiway (60-70mph, 2WD), but mine runs cool (~165-175F). Tire pressure @ 38psi and 3.07 gears; other details in my sigline. And mileage is corrected by GPS readings. And I have the camper to increase wind resistance, so I guess I'm not doing too bad. :brows:

Thanks. And it is the bottom one that has gone walkabout.

Tried the screw/bolt thread with no luck. On my last Baja journey, the dreaded washboard vibes (over 150km) caused both fastening bolts to back out of my starter, and the starter to disengage from the ring gear. We caught it just in time before the starter came adrift completely, but one of the bolts went missing. Does anyone know the size/length/threadform for the bolt? We used a 15mm wrench to tighten the remaining bolt (but a 19/32 will also fit it), and I could remove it to measure, but just thought I'd try here first. If it's metric, my guess is a 10/1.25/40, but that is just a guess. :dunno: On a related topic, anyone have a good source for an assortment of metric bolts/nuts in automotive grade (i.e. at least 8.8 )?

Alfa: In the right hands, it's a dream. In the wrong hands, it's a nightmare.

I've got a set of tan buckets for sale. PM me if you're interested.

So she was a hooker, and didn't want to hook up with a local pimp? And you couldn't/wouldn't help her out? Shame on you!!! :brows:

Thanks for all the comments. It's pretty much as I suspected. I'll probably just live with it.

I was down in Baja for the past four-five days, and to pass the time during the boring RT from Mexicali to San Felipe I did a lot of fuel/mileage tests to help diagnose my cold running/bad fuel economy problem. I got @15-16mpg on highway running at 60-70mph, and at worst got @13.5mpg when I was desert running in crappy two track, lots of soft sand, and running mostly at 20-30mph (mileage and speed verified by my GPS). Not great, but nowhere near as bad as I feared. And the motor never got above 175F, even in the slow running. What I did find interesting as a side issue was that when my low fuel light went on (meaning two gallons left according to the manual) and I re-fueled, the tank would only take 12-13 gallons. That means that there are 5-6 gallons left in the tank. I verified this by intentionally running a long way to try to run out of gas (I carry ~4 gallons in cans as a reserve when desert running), but couldn't get it to run dry. The most I squeezed in with the light on and the fuel gauge riding on E for many miles (after running for 230 miles total) was 16.1 gallons. Long story short: Is there a way to adjust the set-point for the warning light and/or recalibrate the gauge/sending unit? If not, no big deal, but I do like things to work as advertised if it's a matter of adjustment.

Naaah! I've seen stranger ones! :rotf:

That's my plan. But I'm just curious about the basis for the terrible rep that the BA 10/5 seems to have.

I was having a discussion with a mechanic that's been working on Jeeps for >20 years, because we're talking about rebuilding my engine somewhere in the next two years. I plan to build a stroker, and expressed concern about whether the BA 10/5 could handle the increased torque. He said that in all his years, he's never seen one fail in normal use, i.e. unless it was abused in wheeling or had the clutch dropped REALLY badly. This got me thinking . . . mine has almost 300K miles on it, so why, if it was such a POS, did it not break long before this? Admittedly, I'll do something about the trans as part of the rebuild, and it doesn't make sense to rebuild the BA 10/5, but how many of you have actually had one break during normal usage?

I've used those on my bikes as well. But I carry a SafetySeal truck kit for my MJ due to the thick blocks on the ProComps. Haven't had to use it yet (fingers crossed) but I'm heading to Baja on Thursday for the San Felipe 250, so who knows?

It's fitted to the 4.0L six.

Not a hijack at all; you just illustrated my point. But, unless there's something seriously wrong, chances are it was just the cable that broke. Should be easy to determine.