summerinmaine

Cool, but where are the Comanche racetrucks? I was down working a pit as usual. Nice spot to camp as well: Blew a tire on the way in, but otherwise the MJ ran well. Hope I didn't mess up the cat by runing a few gallons of left-over Purple Passion on the way home. :D

My 87 has them.

So is the full serve where they come out with rubber gloves and personally spread your cheeks? Out here "full service" means something totally different. And you wonder why the "hummer" is so popular? :brows:

La Jolla, California: But this was a few days ago. Today? Who knows?

Not sure I understand your point. I have a Highlander Hybrid that gets 23-25 mpg which is 8 or so mpg better than the regular Highlander, but it has zip to do with electrolyzing water to produce hydrogen gas. And the hydrogen technology that is coming on-line is stored hydrogen, not produced on-board via electrolysis. And I've done electrolysis experiments in HS science class, and with standard power supplies the H2 production is pretty slow. I wonder if Myth Busters has anything to say about this technology.

I definitely agree with this. Unless they are exploiting some previously unknown synergistic effect, where the H2 gas is causing a more efficient burn. But still, increased gas mileage? The amount of gasoline fed in for each intake stroke is dependent on the mixture control and the volume of air. Don't see how the inclusion of H2 would affect anything in this equation. Cahoots? You mean you haven't known this all along? :brows:

But that would be limited to the six cylinder MJs, right? :D

Pete, I haven't reviewed the site, and it likely is a scam, but your critique appears to ignore the fact that the engine is still running on gasoline. As I understand it, the process uses the power from the alternator to electrolyze the water, and produce H2. The normal alternator, running on a normal engine, is often producing wasted energy, as it produces much more power than is needed to power the electrics and recharge the battery. So what's wrong with rechanneling some of that wasted energy into electrolysis? I'm still pretty skeptical, but the theory isn't trying to produce something from nothing; rather it appears to try to make the entire engine system more efficient by capturing wasted power.

On mine, the clutch was (allegedly) replaced by the PO himself. Given a few of his other fixes, nothing would surprise me. I figure I'll just live with it until something major needs doing. Then replace the trans with an AX-15.

Lemons/Lemonade! You've got some unused dash display space. Do something creative with it!

Mine does this as well, but otherwise no problems shifting. I checked my fluid level and it's about 1/2 way between the min/max. I'm gonna bring it up to the max line, but why should the fluid level (above min) have anything to do with the "juddering?" Supposedly a new clutch/bearing before I bought it, but we all know what that's worth, right? :brows:

Ouch! Sorry about that!

You say that now. But just wait a couple of weeks. :brows:

125K? That's pretty lo mileage compared to the 297K on my 87. :brows: What matters is the condition, not the numbers.

FSMs = Flying Spaghetti Monsters? :brows:

I had a couple of bumpers shipped to me, and after pricing everyone I could find, FedEx Ground was the cheapest, by a fair bit, and delivered right to my door. YMMV

Thanks. It's a Scamper pop-up camper that weighs @950# (empty but wet). The mj has a D44, 4" total control lift, skyjacker shocks, and a JKS adjustable track bar. I've got a set of ProComp 31/10.5/15s ready to go on it, but I haven't decided whether to switch to 8" rims. Even with the added weight and wind resistance, it still gets @16mpg on the highway. I use it for desert camping and my pit crew work for the Baja500/1000 races. Here's better pics:

Hmmm . . . my 1987 4.0L has 155# across the board (with no significant variation), with 296K miles. Don't think it's been rebuilt, but who knows? That could be gauge variance too. I need to do a comp test on my engine, but I don't know if the gauge will fit. I bought it for my Honda, but isn't the 4.0 plugs standard?? Could be! Test was done by the mechanic I use for my Tii, so you would expect the gauge to be precise. Accuracy is always a question, however.

Hmmm . . . my 1987 4.0L has 155# across the board (with no significant variation), with 296K miles. Don't think it's been rebuilt, but who knows?

Cool. Glad I was able to help a bit. My MJ is a dedicated rig for my Baja desert race pit work: It is a bit "compact" compared to my buddy's rig: but I love it just the same!

Since it's still doing the same thing from before you split the case, then cam timing doesn't appear to be the problem (or you simply reset it and perpetuated the problem, but how did it get off in the first place). I'd take a look at ignition timing, but it's been decades since I played with a B&S motor, so I couldn't really offer any advice. Have you looked at a manual: http://www.briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/manual_and_more/

Agreed. And I like the collapsability. Therefore, my vote, as the tie-breaker, is that either one is fine! :brows:

Very true. And the belts appear to be good quality, especially at the price (other vendors sell the exact same belts for up to $130. But, I think that their advertisement of the belts as a specific application for the Comanche is a bit optimistic (to put it charitably). :brows:

I just got mine fitted. :bowdown: Rather than flatten the mounting flange, I got a couple of longer grade 8 bolts (~1/2" longer) and a couple of large nuts. I used the nuts as spacers between the flanges (on each end of the belt) and the trans tunnel/body rail, in order to space the flanges out from the mounting points a bit. In particular, with the buckle end, this allowed the mounting flange to go ahead and bend the wrong way, then still clear everything as the belt curved back towards the seat. The bolts went in, cinched up tight, and Bob's yer uncle.

Well, that answers my questions. Thanks. I'm also tearing the carpet out of mine, but so far only the front portions. I could get longer bolts, as well. I suppose I could do the same bending also, but aren't you concerned that bending the part with a hammer might have weakened it? And doesn't it seem strange that it's bent the way it is? I can't conceive of a mounting point that would make the part correct as supplied.