1989 Eliminator

I'm on my phone on the tappatalk app. Idk its messing up lol. I know hopefully i can get some more feedback

Okay so now i had the truck running and probed the o2 sensor wires and the voltage was varying from ~0.8V to ~4.5V. Good or bad? When i first start the truck though the rpms are okay and the o2 output is steady around 2V then slowly drops below 1V then starts to jump around in voltage.

So i made separate ground wires for the MAP, IAC, ignition solenoid/ voltage regulator. Still no luck.

So i made separate ground wires for the MAP, IAC, ignition solenoid/ voltage regulator. Still no luck.

NEW DISCOVERY... So awhile ago I soldered the five brown/white stripe wires together in the wire harness by the firewall. So i reopened the tape and insulation and the MAP sensor ground was loose! So i temporarily put the MAP ground behind the firewall screw ( where the braided wire is) and then put a small jumper wire from my solder job straight to the battery. Started it up and it sounds louder and healthier. But again... The rpms are still low

NEW DISCOVERY... So awhile ago I soldered the five brown/white stripe wires together in the wire harness by the firewall. So i reopened the tape and insulation and the MAP sensor ground was loose! So i temporarily put the MAP ground behind the firewall screw ( where the braided wire is) and then put a small jumper wire from my solder job straight to the battery. Started it up and it sounds louder and healthier. But again... The rpms are still low

Okay so i checked the voltage at the relay for the supply voltage, and that the terminal that goes to the o2 has 12 volts. Also checked at the o2 connector

Okay so i checked the voltage at the relay for the supply voltage, and that the terminal that goes to the o2 has 12 volts. Also checked at the o2 connector

Lol well I shouldve said that was a GOOD IDEA to check the heater for the o2. I didnt think of that.

I do need to check if the heater is working on my new o2. Ill try and figure out which relay and wire to test for that. My tps is only 3 months old and adjusted. It was a autozone tps.... And yes throttle body is all clean

I do need to check if the heater is working on my new o2. Ill try and figure out which relay and wire to test for that. My tps is only 3 months old and adjusted. It was a autozone tps.... And yes throttle body is all clean

I will attest to the dual diaphragm upgrade as well!!! Braking like a corvette now

I know sorry for the delay folks. I just got back from school. So my distributor was a few degrees off as shown. I then did everything per cruisers instructions and the distributor now look like this. Just past post #1. ... It may be the camera angle but it is just past the post. But... I still have a rough idle. The truck will idle fine just after start up for a minute or two. Then the rpms drop and the truck "catches" itself so it doesnt stale. When i have my a/c on the truck idles very low.

The reason for the modification is because I ground a little too much down on the new booster rod. If too much is ground down then the spring in the switch will not activate. If not enough is ground down then the spring is always compressed and stays on.

I nhave also used the fel-pro blue silicon gasket and you DO NOT use rtv on this type of gasket. Just tighten in a circular pattern and youll be good to go. I also have done crusiers valve cover mod on my 4.0, but i do not know if it applies to 2.5 as well.

I mean i took the distributor all the way out, set the oil pump at 11 oclock and put the dizzy back in. And it looks like it lines up. The shaft itself is loose because that metal piece that the rotor sits in also moves. I just don't have the cut out cap yet

If the distributor is bolted down, i can go back and forth about 3/8"? Something like that. A few degrees needless to say. Its not just a little in my opinion. So would this mean the distributor teeth are wore?

Okay so i took the cap off and the rotor has a little play in it. Like i can kinda turn it back and forth a little. Is that bad? Also, sure after cutting the locating tab off you can turn the distributor but the cap and rotor and distributor are all bolted together so they all turn equally.

Okay I'm at school right now so i don't have my old one on me. Ill make the window hopefully this weekend

My harmonic balancer is not new and actully the rubber seal or bushing for the balancer is partly sticking out like it is going bad. But i indexed my distributor. And here is the result. The black mark on the right is the centerline for cyl #1 post. The mark on the left is the estimated position of where the rotor should be. The rotor edge of the arc should just be past the cyl #1 post. Which it is.

No it happens all the time. I'm going to index my distributor just to check that.

Plus I do not see why the alignment of the distributor would be bad since i never took it out or messed with it.

I will cut my old distributor cap at cyl #1 and put cyl #1 at TDC to see where the rotor ends up at. But do I have to cut the ears off of the locatiing tab in order to turn or move the distributor into the correct position?

Bump. Still having this low idle/ dead spot. I just bought a new O2 sensor and it didnt change anything really. Still idles low. The O2 sensor I bought is a BOSCH.

Eh i had the ignition on when doing the ohm test. I did the ohm test with ignition off and it was nearly zero. And my tps voltage on the C terminal was .8 and the input voltage was 4.7 volts. So, 17% difference. My map and tps seem fine. I did some tests on egr and when i unplugged the electrical connection with the output hose off (hose from solenoid to transducer) there was vaccum. Which is good. But when i put the output hose on there was no difference in idle. The hose is new. So I'm thinking its the egr valve not operating correctly.