JeepcoMJ

nice. you really should tie that into more than just the sheet metal floor, though.

welcome to the forum!

usually buying a kit local comes with free install, so I'd go that route.

yup

vacuum storage canister. we call them "footballs"

not a bigger one, just a better one showing the damage. that "tear" is from some idjit making a stupid yank on that thing and trying to recover something. that hole is the rear bolt hole for a factory tow hook bracket. and the issue is that that crack/tear runs around your steering box. that area of the frame is notably week and it's not uncommon for it to be broke...but nowhere near what yours is like. that whole section of the frame really MUST be repaired before you even think about driving it. if that finishes the break and shears off, it'll kill you.

grab a better picture of that hole in the frame rail. houston, you have a problem... that round hole with the vertical what looks like torch cut in it is in front of the track bar mount, behind the steering box...and you're going to need to plate the heck out of that now.

ha. when it's done.

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the door and rocker damage totals it out for me. that header would be an easy fix, though.

so long as you use the original cruise-equipped speedometer cable, it will still work by doing it that way.

congrats! don't forget your birthday suit!

yeah. I paid $250 for mine, and dropped $80 on a new pump motor, $20 on the proper MEYER fluid, and I still have to get paint and tear it apart to rebuild the A frame, replace all the pins for the angling rams, and repair the center pivot section. I'll be out $500. my bro paid $1000 for the exact same plow, in the exact same shape, but with a comanche specific mount...my mount was for a chevy luv.

it probably IS the RRO kit. anyways. it's not as strong because it's 1 more thing between the axle and the lift spring that is mobile. i.e. it's not permanently attached to something, making it more likely to shift/move.

to put it further, a 4wd ax4/ax5 uses a different output shaft and output housing (aluminum housing behind mid plate). the internals, with exception of output shaft, are completely the same.

Not true. With a six inch lift you aren't going anywhere until you've had a new driveshaft made. Mine took three days for to be custom made. Nobody will have same-day turnaround. As for Motion, I can respect ANY vendor that suports a forum and is willing to stand this firmly behind their product. That being said, there are different pinnion angle requirements based on whether you have gone SYE or not. If you don't adhere to the rules, there will be massive driveline vibrations. Your keyed kit cannot compensate for the difference here, or even smaller angle differences such as sagged springs. SOA lifts, while "easy", open up multiple bags of worms and completely change the game when it comes to forces applied to various components. If yuo are going to go to an SOA setup, take the time to do it correctly. Doing it right includes setting a proper angle, and welding in new perches. Perches are $8/ea. Someone to come weld is also cheap. When it comes to safety on your rig, please don't cut corners. This is for the safety of you and others on the road around you. Do it right. actually, I have to disagree with only 1 thing. a comanche has a long enough wheel base to not alter the geometry of the driveshaft too much at 6.5" of lift. the only real issue is driveshaft length, and I've made do with a stock one all the way up to 6.5". you won't need a double cardan on your driveshaft on a comanche. on a cherokee, yes, you do at those heights. that said, proper pinion angle is necessary to reduce chances of driveline vibration

i'd venture to say that you're not right about the stronger part. I can understand everything else, but you can't honestly say that the pinion angle is adjusted properly. pinion angle needs to be set specifically to the system that that vehicle is running. I don't see you offering different bolt-on kits for different leaf packs (2x4 is lowest, 4x4 mid, m/t highest), different wheel base, and different engine and transmission options. while I understand that it's impossible for a VENDOR to acquire one part with that many different specs from the company that manufactures them, I would think you'd not have the gall to offer it as "fact" that it is properly set up for all mj's. above that, why spend over $100 when you can spend $50 to get the parts, and a case of beer to have a local pro welder do the welding, and have it fully spec'd to your vehicle?

the bolt-on SOA doesn't allow for any pinion angle adjustment to get it set where it should be. it's bolt on, so there's more parts involved, which makes it more likely to fail. I don't know about you, but I don't want that many bolts in a 5" square that hold my axle to the truck. too much crap to break.

I agree and disagree with you. I have own 3 different plow set ups on my jeeps, the first one wasa meyers 4 way on my cj and it worked very nice, next I got a good deal on a snowbear plow just like the one in the above picture, this plow went up and down with a small winch but the angle part was a manual affair that got old quickly. I used this set up to plow my own personal driveway and my neighbors and it did the job but like I said getting in and out of the jeep to angle the plow got really old quickly. I did too got this set up used for $150, I had to buy the jeep specific frame mount that ran me another $250 or so - now it was not such a good deal. I no longer have this set up as I ended gettind a 4 way snoway plow with down pressure which works really nice. Bottom line if you are just plowing your driveway, do not mind getting out the jeep to angle the plow and can get the plow for next to nothing with the jeep specific frame mount included - I say get it and enjoy. eh. i've done the manual thing. worse, i've done it on an open cab tractor with a 3 point grader. plowing for me MUST be inside a cab now, there must be heat, and I ain't gettin out until I'm done, or I'm stuck.

no good. first off, it *should* be a 6'6" to fit our jeeps properly. on top of that, you want something with a hydraulic lift system, and preferably an angling system. I just picked up a meyers e-47 6'6" 4 way plow for $250 after searching high and low for it. I have about $100 more into it with fluid, seals, and a pump motor. I still need to take it apart and repair the a-frame, but it does work very well aside from that.

I just type in comancheclub.com/forums

for tech questions, please post in the tech subforum. this is the subforum intended for posting things you find for sale that are not yours. you won't get nearly as good of answers here as you will there.

or you can take the two out, remove the pedals from them, redrill the hole to use the '96 pedal, install it again, and put it in the mj bracket, then modify the push rod on the new booster to work with the renix brake switch...

actually, they're back up at least on my end... more pics to come...

yep. they'll be back on the 20th lol. I'm deleting pics from old threads so people aren't browsing and exceeding the badnwidth lol.