JeepcoMJ

Not quite as specific as I lookin for lol.

97+ xj light wiring. no pins from the xj side harness, but hey...it's a start. from the driver's kick panel WT/TN = brake (to be wired to turn switch...will update with pin) DG/RD = Left turn signal BR/RD = right turn signal BR/LG = reverse light from driver's kick panel, needs to be wired back to passenger. BR/YL = running lights I'll update with interior lights and everything else soon.

today was a good day. new motor is on plow pump...$75 later, pump works. quick connector is still kinda fubar'd, but it works...will make it through the winter. driver's door is modded to be removable, and installed. driver's fender installed, front end buttoned up. truck is re-registered and insured. tail lights are wired except brake lights...gotta figure that one out yet, can't remember what I did for last time with the '95 wiring...to the turn switch, i think. to drive it, I just need to put the sway bar on, wire the brake lights, put something on for a rear bumper...even if it's temporary, and toss shocks on it. then it's driveable. hope to have it completely done on wednesday. all I have left for wiring, aside from the brake lights, is to wire in the rear speaker and interior light wires, and install the plow wiring. pics tomorrow.

any input on which wires are for what? what did you do to make the brake lights work with the mj rear harness?

easiest swap would be a 4.0, or a chevy 3.4. parts are easier to get for the 4.0

97 fenders are different, so you'd need both. unless you want to adapt the header to fit your fenders.

You are correct as the 4.0L will not fit into an '86 MJ. They redesigned the whole engine compartment in '87 to fit the longer 4.0L in there. I've seen GM 3.4L and 3.8L engines swapped in place of the 2.8L but haven't seen too many 4cyl's upgraded. There was an AX-5 behind the 2.8L in mine but that was only cranking out a whole whopping 140hp. I chose to swap in a Chevy 350 instead of fighting with the 4.0L (was looking at putting more power in there so was either going to be a 5.7L V8 or 4.7L stroker). Novak makes adapters to put an AX-15 behind the engine and they make motor mounts to fit, but the motor mounts will have to be slightly modified to fit the '86. I'm not sure exactly what you're planning on doing with this Jeep but you will need an AX-15 5sp manual trans if you intend on going with anything larger than the V6. I bet you haven't seen even 1 3.8 buick swap into one. that said, the only difference in the firewall requires a hammer massage, and the header panel/upper rad supports and front crossmember weld right in from a 4.0l

it does not have a corporate 8.25 rear, not that is stock. it will be a 3.07 d35, or 3.07 d44. anything else is not stock, so who knows.

$50mj's are better tho...i know, it's happened :P

very nice score! looks fairly clean...

you should not bother looking for the part number on your transmission. IT WILL NOT WORK WITH A 6 CYL 4.0 SWAP!. this needs to go in the tech section. you have an ax4 or ax5. you need an ax15 or ba10/5

alright. 2 of 2 are sold!

you're better off loading the ax4 1-4 gear cluster on the front half of the 4x4 output, and swapping it onto the ax5 4x4 midplate...then you don't have to swap the mid plate over, and you don't have to convert the detent system in the 2x4 ax4 system over to ax5. you *should* be able to tear it apart with a bit of maneuvering, w/o removing the ax5 shift rails from the mid plate.

NICE SCORE! scrap price should be around $150-$200.. load it up with as much metal weight as possible...NO SPARE TIRES just metal weight. you should make over half back. a good rear hatch sels for around $125 up here.

Ax5 output shaft is NOT the same between 4x4 and 2x4. You MUST use a 4x4 output to make a 4x4 trans.

i won't be able to swing down there. you'll get it LKQ weekend...

yeah. this is just for the winter to stop rust. I've decided on a cherry red/black color for it...it's just the wrong time of year to do a good paint job, and I have rust that MUST be stopped. it's not bad, yet....i don't want it to get there.

it'll work. easiest way...tear apart the 4x4 one so you learn from that, then tear the ax4 apart nicely, and swap everything from the 2x4 output shaft to the 4x4 output shaft. you will need a hydraulic press.

what's the symptoms it's givin you? here's some pics from when mine was havin issues...well, one of the 4 I've had to redo.

yeah. it's not the "shift rail" actually...it's just the "slide rail" that the shift fork rides on...the shift rails are located further forward in the front half of the case, and on through the midplate

lol. thanks. not done yet! it'll get down to two colors, at most. I want it to not look terrible for the winter, and stop the rust on the parts that have rust...

with the transfercase off, remove the plug on the rear. just behind the rod that the shift fork is on. unbolt the 13mm bolt that holds the shift fork to that rail. slide shift rail out, pull out shift fork.

if it's in an aw4, dex/merc plus 3 is the ONLY thing you should run in it.

y do you need it out? if it's to remove it, skip the 4 bolts. pull the boot up on the trans, turn the ring counter-clockwise while pushing down on it (wear gloves so u don't get cut), and the shifter will just lift right out

wanted to get some better pics of it as it is once it was inside (had to scramble as I was cleaning the shop up...it started raining, and I'm sorta missing a door :P ) black paint with rain on it... Chrysler was smart about one thing...they designed ALOT of parts on LHD '97+ xj's to be interchangeable with RHD '97+ xj's...the gauge cluster mount, for example, has two headlight mounts on it. this will be handy so I can add the plow light switch into it, but on the right side of the column. My plan was originally to tie this into the existing headlight harness, but I don't think I will be doing that. The way plows are normally set up is that this switch is a "Upper/Lower" switch...What I will be doing is setting this up so I can turn on the plow lights seperately of the factory lights. then, I'll simply flip the running lights on and turn the plow lights on...I will have to tie into the hi/lo wires coming off of the turn signal switch, but otherwise they'll function perfectly that way. and no...the plow lights won't be quite that high...they'll be around 6" lower on the quick-connect plow subframe I'm going to make to work with this bumper.