JeepcoMJ

5 for 5, no inner seals on d44's I've had/have

I'm not hunting this year...no cash to spend on brass, much less the trip out to richland center. got a doe with the plow when I left my parents house (oops)...she wasn't worth lookin at.

looks good, but I'm not a fan of that. you're doing a good job, and at least it suits your tastes.

and I want to see a bullet in the head of whoever has been designing jeeps since 2004, and whoever decided to cut the 4.0 from the menu.

nice. now take them off and flip them 180 degrees so they're on the right way :roll: the purpose of boomerang shackles is to put a forward angle on the shackle (the bend goes forward) which aids in forcing the spring to to rearward when compressed while flexing. the way you have it, it won't do that... oh, the ride gets better when it's done the right way, too. -Pat

no one mentioned a coach. check out the rob's latest topic in the pub

how bout some paragraph formation? seriously...too many words in too large of a space without any breaks. makes it VERY hard to read the entire thing. that is a part of the reason that paragraphs exist...

MUCH BETTER :cheers:

... I have a welder...

teraflex shackles are NOT boomerang shackles. not even close. northup, you were probably talking to me. teraflex shackles can NOT function properly without twisting your leaf springs. they are a terrible idea.

yup, just lock it in 2wd.

unless you tear the entire trans apart and swap the 2wd output shaft into the 4wd trans, and use the 2wd output houshing, "no". that said, were I in your position, i would just install it with a transfercase, shorten the driveshaft, and call it good...then you're halfway to a 4wd swap.

exactly.

Strange. Did it have a dizzy or coil packs? dizzy, with bosses for coil packs. real late '99 production...

I want the ABS to work because it has it. I can't stand to have disconected non working features. Also since this is a DD and not going to be Wheeled It needs to have good road manners and the ABS is nice to have since we get alot of Black Ice and slippery frosen stuf here. I suppose. ABS has done nothing but screw me over...I don't like having it, but then again, I prefer full function rear brakes, too (no proportioning).

why do you want to keep ABS? why not just delete it and forget it? and...if you decide you don't want the tan interior, let me know...i could use those door panels.... -Pat

to go to a non-servicable hub, all you really need is a 4wd knuckle set from whichever year you want, the calipers for that year, hubs for that year, and to take a 4wd stub shaft, have the ujoint ears machined off, and put it in the wheel bearing. that's all the very early model (84-86 xj, 86 mj) and late model (94ish+) 2wd setups were. I'd venture that you could find the proper 2wd stub shafts in a junk yard, too.

eh. it's getting used, not abused. this is less abuse than I put this truck through when I was wheeling it. plus it's only my driveway and the neighbor's, maybe the parent's every once in awhile.

cordless sawzall for junkyard runs.

bit more progress. swapping rear ends with the 3800's this weekend, then the brakes will be done. also taking the 31's from the 3800 and putting those on it. swapping out to the '99 alloy rims in a few weeks. all lights work, interior wiring is done. need to do a headliner for it, put the interior together, wire up the new speakers, and put the door strikers in permanently. it's driveable, though. plow mount is gonna be pretty easy.

an '86 and newer 2.5 liter jeep is a throttle body injection...i.e. it has every sensor that a 4.0 would have of similar vintage. so yes, it has a TPS. I believe you have a TF or TH904 transmission...though, 4 cyl cherokees of similar vintage equipped with automatic would have had a 4 cylinder specific aw4 (same trans as 4.0, but with a 4 cyl bellhousing and higher rpm stall converter). the fact that you have the power/comfort switch leads me to believe that this is the case. any 4.0/auto would have that trans and it would be compatible from '87-'95, but you would have to swap the bellhousing and probably buy a new torque converter. -Pat

my late year '99 is an 0331 casting. just pointing that out. the 0331 is the worst head you could get. constantly cracking and causing issues. i'd build it the way I suggested. easiest for a weekend mechanic to do.

late '99 has the horse shoe, and that's the bad head. you want any high output block, the best head is the '95 head (higher nickel content). to make it easy, a '96 wiring harness (complete bolt-in, no newer dash required)...only need to splice over the tail wiring to the xj housing, and convert to the newer style column. the '96 is OBD2, which makes canning it easy. to do a stroker, you MUST have the crank balanced out to the weight of whatever rods and pistons you go with. that is the only way to balance out the motor enough to NOT have internal vibration destroy it. there is no such thing as a poor man's stroker. period. if you think there is, don't build one, because you won't be doing it right. you do NOT want any head from '97 and up. they have smaller exhaust ports and therefor more restriction with less power. remember that wiring harnesses are engine and trans specific..4.0/auto are different from 4.0/5 speed. there is a 5 speed one in the junkyard by me (96) that's pretty clean. another junkyard has an auto. i can get what you need so far as wiring.

my point is...what good is a truck with no usable tail gate? and, if you're worried about cell phone drivers, why doesn't it wrap around the rear quarters?

...now that tailgate is useless...