JeepcoMJ

You will need the high output head. The manifolds don't match ports between high output and renix. Renix is 87 to 90, high output is 91 and up, though some changes were made to the exhaust ports (smaller) in mid 99.

There is no spot to put a knock sensor in a 96 block....or any h.o. Block for that matter. If you're putting the h.o. Motor in the 90, do the full wiring swap. And the 96 trans and torque converter must be used then. They are not cross compatible with renix, as the obd 2 96 system uses different sensors, different connectors, and has a different torque converter bolt pattern. Oh, ands you can't mix and match flex plates. Renix are different than h.o. In every way

reciever mount cart/dolly would take care of the issue...

something along these lines http://www.brazix.com/prodfly.asp?ItemP ... QAodYHdpqQ

my thought process is running along the lines of a 12v timing device between the battery and the power inverter. I need to figure out the power draw specs of the heater, and of the inverter, and weigh the difference in order to avoid draining my battery, and decide how long I need to run the system in order to achieve temp. my goal is to at least get the coolant temp. above 55 degrees prior to starting the vehicle. I'm only trying to get it warm, not hot. if needed, I will add a second optima red top in system with a battery isolator so that I can also jump start the vehicle via second battery.

yeah...i've installed those before. but they are designed to run off diesel, so will not be efficient even if i could get it to run off gasoline. I'm really trying to figure out a way to do this via the 115v block heater.

it's a 5 speed, so no. I don't care how good your e-brakes are, you never leave a manual vehicle out of gear when not running.

that was neat!

I just moved from a place with a garage and driveway (and thus the ability to run an extension cord) to an apartment complex. my jeeps all have block heaters...my parking spot is 200 yards from my door, in a high foot traffic area. so. I want to know if there's an efficient (and feasible) way to convert dc power to ac power, then via a timing device control a time period in which the heater would be turned on...all without draining the battery too much for it to start in a 10 or so hour time period. this isn't for any startability issues...I just simply like to get in an already warm vehicle. Thanks, -Pat

that j series is a photoshop, but if they made it, it would be sitting in my driveway hands down. that is a good looking truck!

man, that thing is NICE! lol. well, picked up the lund visor, did not look close enough at it...it's for a comanche, not a cherokee. I'm going to check and see if I can make it work, but there's a bit more gap than I'd like. that said, I may just wait to find one for an xj, and hold on to this one to put it on the 3800 when the time comes. I'll only install it on the xj if the holes will be in the same location when I do eventually find a proper cherokee one...I don't want to drill two sets of holes in the roof on this thing. pics of the swingout will be up soon. Hopefully Rob (automan) and I can meet up this weekend for my brother, dad, and I to check out his diesel, drop off black interior parts, and snag his plow frame so I can fix it for him and use it as a template to make one for my xj.

The handle is part of the sure panel in 97 and up, the latch is still similar, but the power locks are part of the latch assembly after 97.

remove your bumper and line up the brackets to it. it is plainly obvious as to how it bolts up, once you get that far involved.

The strobes are not going to be used on any property but my parents and a couple friends. Aside from that, they will not bee used. Thanks for the tip on the lights!

Just picked up a lighted lund visor for my 99 cherokee, which I am putting a meyers 6.6" ez-connect plow on in the next few weeks. I would like to put strobes on the jeep but don't want an actual strobe light, magnetic or otherwise, on the roof. I have this crazy idea of converting the ambers on the visor into strobes, as well as converting the bulbs over to L.E.D. at the same time. For the rear, I'm planning on removing the lenses from the tail light housing, and converting the tail, turn, and reverse lights to L.E.D. as well, them gluing the lenses back on. I would assume that I need a controller for the strobes, but I'd also like to be able to use them all as running lights. Aside from that, I do not plan on putting strobes on the roof in the rear, save maybe on the third brake light. There won't be a salter on back so I should be able to use tge tail lights themselves once I've converted to l.e.d.

Should still have a full set off the 3800, and off stevs truck....don't much care for the look, so I'll dig'em up and bring them down when I get down there

installed a yakima roof rack, built a class 3 hitch, bought a factory swing out, and in a couple weeks I will be replacing all of the springs with some HD ones, adding air shocks, and putting the plow on it. winter's a-coming!

coming back home this weekend with it, putting it in dry storage for the winter, and (finally) going to go about rebuilding the motor and doing the body work on the bed this winter. the cab/chassis will have to wait until summer, as it's going to be a completely gutted, non-rolling truck that will be soda blasted before I even think about putting it back together. if there's rust, I want it gone. that will likely entail a completely new floor pan.

I would have moved it right next to her car, and smoked the heck out of it.

nice tie-ins. but I hope he full welds between the rear bumper and the plate that goes under the tailgate. if that's angle iron, that's a very likely place to rust. aside from that, a little wider, and tuck it towards the body a bit more. it's a great starting point.

At least you'll get a nice check and fix it for cheap. I don't feel bad for the guy on the trike, just you. gotta pay attention or this stuff will happen. It's a shame about the xj, good luck fixing it

if your vacuum brakes don't work after you kill the motor, there's a problem. mine work. no matter what conditions I'm in, the booster works just fine. even if I shut it off 2 weeks ago. you may even have a vacuum leak.

definitely doesn't sound like it should. I wonder if backing that idle adjustment screw up about halfway, then running it would fix that.

Seen it. Lol looks nice can't wait to see it in person. My dad is excited to see another one.

Would have to be a tcase from 01 or older tj. Otherwise speedometer won't work. Any other direct fit autos are not worth even considering.