JeepcoMJ

You could build....and probably even buy a rotisserie for what those are likely to cost

give me an applicable use for it, and I will tell you it's a good idea. it's useless for brake jobs because of how it mounts you can't drain oil while it's sideways, likewise every other fluid. plus all fluids will drain out the vents on it's side. exhaust work is better done with the vehicle overhead, or up on jack stands sliding under on a creeper. likewise driveshafts, axle seals, etc. floor pans would be better with it completely upside down, but frankly most of the work is done from the top anyways, so screw it. this is a "neat" idea. but frankly, there is no reasonable use for it and therefor whatever they would sell it for is a poor use of money.

well, after completely disassemblying the plow setup, I ended up rebuilding the pump entirely, and while on ebay found that just the pump has been selling for a pretty penny. as a result, I sold the pump lol. I can replace it later, and I needed the money. going to build a pump for the jeep at some point later, since I can't pony up the cash for the needed suspension upgrades in order to use the plow.

new yamaha 2008 anniversery edition snowmobile jacket (by virtue that my bro bought it, but it was too big for him, perfect for me lol. Thanks Bro!), and time with the family. family got a Wii...it's going to be fun watching my dad play zelda and my mom do wii fit. now I just need the sled to go with it lol

very nice! I'll see if I can dig up the wiring and other necessities for it, but I do have a factory '99 and up keyless reciever and a matching remote to that reciever, which I could send you. I'll try and find you an overhead console or at least the light housing that mount up on the ceiling.

that's a proper theory on getting all of it red hot. but you're only heating up the sides...the area directly where you're welding.

lol, not a head-biter conversation. I'm sure Rob meant nothing harmful by the way he said anything. I'm sure he simply wants to grind it down that they're not cross compatible in any way. he's probably had just as many arguments as I (and many others) have had with people who stubbornly and honestly believe that they're identical, when they're not even close. -Pat

generally you heat it to a low red hot before you weld to it, but you should be just fine if you heated it hot to the touch using a torch. the real key when welding to cast is that you concentrate the weld on the cast (getting it hot on the cast) and pool it over to the steel. two different metals with two very different "melting points". I wouldn't worry about it too much. just check here and there to make sure that the welds are not cracking...if they do, then you can simply clean up and re-weld. not a huge deal, and you certainly can't wreck the inner C by not getting it hot enough. better to play it safe right now while you improve your welding technique (which is pretty damn good so far)

those welds look very nice. I can't really tell from the pics, but are you sure you got the cast hot enough to penetrate? I'm not asking to be mean, or critique you at all, just asking because it really is very hard for even a professional welder to get good penetration without pre-heating the cast.

you're limited to renix only harnesses. the 91-92 is different in almost every way, as it's for a high output. why do you need from the dash to the tail lights? if your fuse box is bad, just get a dash harness from an 88-90 with the same motor but make sure it's from one with an automatic transmissioin. auto/manual trans dash harness are the same, everything for the TCU comes through a different spot in the firewall from the engine harness. the benefit of using one from an auto is that they have never seen a leaking clutch master cylinder. -Pat

nice jiim! and uh....let's see. comanche and cherokee tails don't mount anywhere near the same way. all mounting tabs are different, the shape of them is also outright different.

he didn't take anyones advice. that's why I'm being harsh. he was told, he ignored, and as marcel said...he's gonna have something blow in the distant future. beyond that, "it was only running for 10 seconds" is a crock of BS. Been there, done that, know he's under-exxagerating from personal experience. last thing. yep, I've been there. but, when I was there, I did it with every intention of replacing the motor before water even hit it. the parts were already lined up and ready to replace before it ever got truly broken. this kid obviously doesn't know enough to have that covered.

you're an idiot. that's all I have to say. next time you need help, don't bother asking. cause you're not gonna follow directions anyways.

well, at least she was thoughtful enough to drain the tank before you had to pull it. ha. then you just had to butt in and put some in there... :cheers:

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START! if you stalled, you sucked water into the cylinders, maybe a little, maybe a lot. either way, turning it over was a bad idea. pull the plugs check oil check trans fluid you're gonna have water in those, and probably your differentials. so, time for a massive fluid swap is likely. AFTER you've checked all of this, done the necessary swaps, etc. turn it over, with the plugs removed. this will allow you to blow all water out of the cylinders. then put the plugs back in, attempt to start it, and begin diagnosing the electrical issues that are likely to ensue from likely not being properly waterproofed prior to sinking them.

tell her she needs to take it to a mechanic, just to teach her a lesson. aside from that, sounds to me like you need to pull the pump to inspect further.

from the picture, you can not tell if the tilt lever is there or not. only the recline lever.

i've never seen them. so I'd say fairly rare. I've made a set out of 4dr leather ones and 2dr cloth ones, but it's just not the same...lol

finished it today. installed the 242 shifter in it, now need to hook up the shift linkages. the 2 door specific trim on the lower door frame was broken. I had some original 85 2dr ones in black, they work OK. just hard to find the right parts for 2 doors. d/s with original floor mat. ordering the nice rubber jeep ones this week p/s rear floor rear seat.. dash.

thanks.

Holy crap, your airbag computer is still mounted under the seat? That was a recall for the '99. yeah, i seem to recall that. I didn't do the modification because I don't have the mount for under the center console bracket, and just got sick of working on it lol.

took more than just the morning, but here goes... I didn't have any sheet steel, but my brother had a sheet of stainless sheet metal for me to use...my first time welding stainless, and while it's not pretty, it will do the job. the front seat bracket was completely rusted out, so I made a new one. and got rid of the welded nut idea in favor of studs. some of the inner rocker was rusted out, so I cut that out and plated new stuff in... painted and bedlined... Air bag computer mount welded back in, and computer bolted up. passenger side. it was in pretty nice shape. also re-ran the amp wires nicely. vinyl modified for the 97+ variances, and installed. called it quits after that, and tossed the driver's seat back in so I could drive it home. I'll finish up the interior tomorrow, and start working on the sub box.

To make room for Comanches and Cherokees. sold those, too...down to one xj, the 3800, and beaterjeep's jeep...

why did I sell mine!? :headpop: :fs1:

carpet out, seats out. driver rear passenger side was just a bit of surface rust all the bad shtuff removed made a new piece out of a sheet of stainless that I had, then decided to call it quits. temporarily reinstalled the old seat bracket, after throwing the sheet down, so I could drive it home from my dad's shop. I'll finish it in the morning.