JeepcoMJ

....why not just bolt on a stock fan?

That's a Diamond DA40-180. Has a 180hp Lycoming io360, max speed 147 knots, so not terribly fast for the price tag (150 to 170k used, over 200k new) Here's the 1977 Seneca 2 that I painted, plus much maintenance. Also, diamond returned to her hangar, inspection complete

Start collecting ax5 parts, and do the swap. I had an 86 2.5 xj, 4.10s with ax5. Thing was loaded with every single option. Great jeep, good mpg, and it could scoot rather well. I think the automatics play it safe...shift point on the 2.5 should be around 3000 rpm, and the auto want's to do it at lower rpms, which is the issue. Use a mid 90s ax5 as it uses the same master, slave, throw out bearing and plate as an external slave ax5.

I've actually built one of these. Pretty neat cars

Seems like a weird dude lol

What I mean is that 85 to 86, manuals were more common. 2.5s manual is more common. Not a ton of 5 speed xjs, but let's face reality: a 2.8 is junk, and a 2.5 isn't desirable, so how useful is an 85 parts xj. It's only good as parts to someone who needs it, such as you.

He's dead wrong.

And this is the latest fun that I've been up to. Type 91 aircraft that has been maintained in accordance with type 43...so we got to do its 50, 100, 500, 1000, and 2000 hour inspection all in one shot. Luckily, they're all covered in the 2k inspection. Got the all the new parts yesterday, reinstalled everything today, button up and leak check is tomorrow. Cleanest job I have ever had, and I'd like to retire from it down the road.

That's affirmative. I have 3 02s. This is the plow kj, best plow rig I've ever had...the heated leather is a huge plus.

Ax15 are all 23 spline, so any 23 spline ought to work, and I believe all Ax15 lip seals are for short shaft tcase input, but will take any shafts length tcase input. But, $150 isn't a great deal at any rate.

I just realized that my old opinionated ways have been replaced by savee lol. Look, Ncardwell, I get where you're at. Tell you what, answerve a few questions. What is the truck used for? Dd? Mild occasional wheeler? What are your driving habits? Pedal stomper? Sunday driver? Keeps up with traffic? What size tires are you running? And with what gears? 2.5/auto equals 4.10 or (more likely) 4.56. The answers greatly change the advice. If I had a DD and wanted economy, I'd install a manual transmission for starters. However, the best economy you will ever get with a 2.5 is less than a properly built 4.0 can get, and equal or less than the economy a 3.4 will get. Manual transmission is the first direction I will lean. After making that decision, the next question is "What can I get out of the 2.5?". The answer? Not your money's worth. Being an 86, a 4.0 is not an easy or credibLe swap. I'd advise to do a 3.4 swap. Knowing that the ax4/ax5 does not react kindly to over 100hp, I'd also be looking for an external slave ax15 from any h.o. 4.0, and a 95+ dodge Dakota 2.5 bell housing. Then, I'd look for a 5 speed donor among club members locally. Preferably a 2.8/5 speed. Now, if all of that isn't your bag, great. You've made the real answer simple: Find a good working ax5 from mid 90s xj, pedal assembly, master and external slave. Then buy a renix 2.5 flywheel and clutch, and do the swap. You may need drive shafts, crossmembers, etc...which is why I recommend a mid 90s xj as the donor. If you aren't going to do any engine swap, and never going to do upgrades to it, you will be satisfied with an ax5.

How does the cps wire look? I've had one melt to the header and cause this exact issue.

There are several threads on this truck from my past, but it's a new age. This will feature more pics than anything else, but I thought the first post ought to have the goal and specs. 87 comanche, swb. Self built 4.5 stroker. Renix cam Scorpion roller rockers 95 head, port matched to gasket 99+ intake, port matched to gasket Banks header Mustang 5.0 injectors 62mm throttle body Aw4 Nv242 Dana 30 Dana 44 with trac loc 3.75 gears Fuel skid 97 conversion 3.5" lift, metric ton springs. With boomerang shackles on rear. I will be fabricating front and rear bumpers. 7'6" Meyer Drive Pro snow plow with custom built E61H pump 32 or 33" tires, depending on clearance after installing the M-Max fender flares. Pics attached are how it used to be (on 35s and all oneish color), how I bought it back from the guy I sold it to, and how it sits currently, plus interior after I did floors.

Hi everyone! Just wanted to pop in after about 6 years of not being here and say hi. If you have an 86, check out my 2.8 conversion thread under how to (I believe it will be reordered without posts and put into epic tech when done). I hope we can get the information out there to help those of you on the fence about buying an 86 into having a viable repower option available at your fingertips with some time and minimal effort. Thanks!

As far as electrical goes. The easiest way to start building your harness is to thin the herd. I recommend starting with the easiest part; removing all unnecessary wiring and connectors from the new harness. If you labeled them as you removed them, this will be an easier process. Examples of unnecessary wiring are: Lighting (headlights, turn signals, fog lamps, under-hood lamp) Cruise control (if you want it, you will reuse or install jeep cruise control of the vintage in question) Level sensors (all reservoirs) Wiper pumps and motors Etc. The best way to remove these would be to lay the entire harness out on the floor, and carefully remove all tape and wraps. Then, beginning at the connector, trace the wires going to the connector back to their source. Cut them flush with the connector at the source, or de-pin them if you have the tools for doing so. If you trace them to a common positive or negative, cut only that wire out of the junction. I would personally keep the Chevy under-hood fuse panel, as it will net you far more gains than lost space. Take the fuse panel back off (it does come off, use a small flat head on the clips and cut the tape as necessary) If it is a fuse that is not necessary, remove the fuse, but I would leave a pig tail for future repurposing as desired. By keeping this fuse panel, you will gain a newer starter relay instead of the original corrosion prone solenoid. Locate the signal wire from crank position and pin it into the source pin of the Chevy relay, and use the Chevy engine wiring to engage the starter. In addition to the starter relay update, you will also gain the electric fan relays. I personally would ditch the mechanical fan in favor of the dual computer controlled fans. The Camaro/Firebird fans are integral to the fan shroud, so I recommend getting two aftermarket fans. As the 2.8 radiator is smaller in surface area on front in back (though thicker, and therefore adequate cooling), you will need to invert the wiring off of fan one (low speed) and use it as a pusher fan on the front face of the radiator, and run fan 2 (high speed) as a puller on the rear face of the radiator. The Chevy fuse panel will also have a fuel pump relay. You will need this. It's prewired to the bulkhead connector (I will provide pin out at later date). You have two choices for fuel pumps: 1. 1987 to 1990 4.0 in tank sending unit and pump for a long bed (if you have a 2.5 sending unit it will suffice, but will need a 4.0 pump installed). I prefer this method as it is quiet and keeps the pump cool, however it is harder to install and service). To do this, you will simply take the fuel pump positive from the Chevy bulkhead connector through the factory fuel tank floor plug, and install a renix 4.0 sending unit connector on the body side, then splice/pin it into the fuel pump positive. 2. Aftermarket in line fuel pump. I will have to look up PSI required (generally 28 to 34psi). You would want to install this in the soft line after the outlet of the fuel pump, but before the metal fuel line. The best location to mount it would be to a forward crossmember on the bottom side of the bed. You will need to run a positive from the Chevy bulkhead connector to the fuel pump positive, and a negative from the fuel pump to the battery or a bonding/ground location near it. A big thing to be aware of is that these vehicles will have VATS (Vehicle Anti-Theft System). This puts out 55hz when the matched VATS key is placed in the ignition. This can be bypassed by this model bypass module: http://www.bakerelectronix.com/products_vats/ I have had this module in my 86 since 2006. It works great. The bonus is that you can set it up on a pinned connector, or engagement off of battery power if desired, so that it can still act as anti-theft as the vehicle will not allow it to run. The VATS gets a positive (red) from either a keyed (my choice) or switched battery source, has a ground (black), and an output (blue). The output will go to pin number 55 of connector B on your ECM. This is accessible @ the Chevy bulkhead connector (pin will be added later)

2.8 to 3.4 swap parts list, istructions for mechanical aspect of swap. The ideal candidate (donor) for this swap would be a 1994 to 1995 Chevy Camaro or same year Pontiac firebird, with a manual transmission. The reason for the manual transmission is that, unless you have the rare 87/88 2.5/aw4, your transmission is going to either be an ax4/ax5 (manual), or a tf904 (manual valve body automatic). If your donor is automatic, you could find a 700r4 with a 2.5 gm bell housing, and use that with the camaro harness. That is a needle in a hay stack, but viable. This method would require matched input transfercase (if 4wd) and (likely) new driveshaft(s). What you will need from the donor: 1. Engine computer (preferably manual, as the lack of transmission input will put an auto ecm into limp mode, and flash the check engine light. Doing things as I suggest will allow you to have a functional check engine light when done, which will actually reflect when you have an issue) 2. Engine bay wiring harness. This includes fuse box, wires, sensors, and every connector in the engine bay. You will need to remove some interior to nicely unplug the firewall connectors. (Don't cut them, this will come into play later) 3. Engine, fuel line connector @ fuel rail, and all engine accessories. Being a k-member car, the easiest way to remove the engine is to remove wiring and obstacles carefully. After this, disconnect the rear drive shafts from the differential, transmission crossmember, shifter or shift cables, exhaust after catalytic converter. Once all of this is disconnected, disconnect steering shaft, upper a arms, front brakes, upper strut bolts, and finally the front suspension crossmember. Doing this will allow you to lift the body off of the engine/trans, and easily access all necessary bolts to separate them, leaving you with intact o2 sensors. If you want to retain or add A/C, save the lines connected to the pump. 4. Your engine removed from your truck. The parts you will be saving from the original 2.8 will be: 1. Exhaust manifolds and y pipe 2. Oil pan 3. Oil pickup tube 4. Engine side motor mounts. 5. Flywheel (if you want to be able to order the clutch parts by vehicle rather than Frankenstein method) I would hope you can gather the necessary mechanical swap work from there, but just in case... You will be switching the exhaust manifolds, oil pickup tube, oil pan, and motor mounts to the 3.4 engine. The 3.4 oil pan will not clear the front differential, and you definitely don't want it to self clearance. You will need to have the flywheel neutrally balanced. The 2.8 has no internal balancing, the 3.4 does. Skipping this step will result in excessive wear on main bearings, vibrations, and could cause the engine do detonate. You will also need to get as many O2 sensor bungs as there are sensors in system.. The will be needed during fitment of the engine and final mechanical assembly. I highly recommeND purchasing a brand new 2.8 liter y pipe for ease of fabrication. As is necessary, at equal distance from the exhaust manifolds side to side, you will need to drill an appropriate sized hole for each O2 sensor. I recommend doing this once the engine is reinstalled, during test fit of the y pipe, to make sure the O2 sensors will not make contact or be interfered with by anything. The closet to the manifolds, at equal distance side to side, the better. Any additional O2 sensors need to be located pretty and post catalytic converter, as necessary. I would advise a NoX (nitrous oxide) catalytic converter as it will clear emissions enough to allow you to render the egr inop without throwing a code. You will be using the Camaro/Firebird engine accessories. This will necessitate some custom or trial and error power steering lines as well as upper radiator hose. The mechanical fan will be able to bolt on to the 3.4, though you may need to use a 2.8 water pump. If you do not wish to use the mechanical fan, we will get to that during the electrical section of this swap. The last mechanical aspect will be the need to retain the jeep oil pressure and coolant temp sensors. To do this, you will need to install a Tee at the oil psi port, and install both the jeep and the chevy sensor. As far as the coolant sensor, I believe the best course of action to be to locate the coolant jacket on the intake manifolds lower plenum, and drill and tap a hole (pipe thread) to add the jeep coolant temp sender into the system. These will be connected to the original jeep wiring in order to produce gauge readings.

That will be the write up for a bolt in, yes. There is no sense doing the swap without utilizing multiparty fuel injection. I have a 3.8 in my 86 from a 96 camaro. Thanks, Ben. Good to see you're still here!

If you go with an ax4/ax5, all you need is flywheel, clutch, trans, shifter plate and boot, and pedal assembly. You may also need the crossmember and drives hats for the manual. The tf904 is a manual valve body. Harness should be pretty close to the same as There is no computer involved. Ax15 and ax5 have the same/similar final drive, and won't effect speed or final drive.

HI Don, and thanks for the affirmation. Gasser body harness are the same...easy swap

That' is a very nice upgrade. Will have to consider for our 3 kjs.

Hello again everyone. After speaking with PeteM, I've come back on for the sole purpose of doing write ups/tech to help keep our trucks going. This thread will be a 2.5/2.8 viable swap list, complete with preferred donor vehicles, links to parts needed, and pin outs as well as how to. We will be focusing on 86 conversions to the Chevy 3.4 as well as the Buick 3800, in this case a naturally aspirated series two. I do have access to pin outs for all years of donor vehicles, and would be happy to help. The end goal of this post will be to allow you to piggy back your factory engine harness with a thinned out stand alone harness created from your donor vehicles engine harness. As I get my build info back together, I will update.

Lol. I do not junk cars. I let a hobby take control. Have all my teeth. Wisdom teeth, too. Health insurance, nice car, toys, and all.

No, you still can't figure put that the problem is american emissions standards, and consumer dynamics. You will never get a quality diesel residential/small suv in america. The diesel mechanics here are not skilled in working on them, hence expensive service...and they never will be. The american consumer does not embrace what europeans do, and the result will always be slap a part on engineering. Someone needs to remove your head from your sphincter. Learn to experience things yourself before passing judgement. For God's sake, get off your computer and actually turn a wrench before you open your mouth.

Further, have you owned a vehicle with the new 9 speed? Worked on one? Didn't think so. Have you owned a diesel kj? Worked on one? Didnt think so. All you are doing here is regurgitating "that thing that you read at that one place". You act like someone who will call what he thinks is a sheep, a sheep, even if it is obvious to everyone else that it is a wolf How many mj have you worked on? I have built more than 10, stripped more than 20. as far as I am concerned, here, on this forum, specifically with regards to this forum, and especially on the subject of practical application of knowledge, I am the boot, you are the ant. What you have done and what I have done gives neither of us any damn right to act as arrogant as we have, specifically towards each pther. But I tell you what, you are the only person I have ever interacted with I would happily punch right on the mouth.

Go eff yourself you arrogant, ignorant piece of dung. you are clawing. The 2.8, which I know INTIMATELY, is a problem on account of lack of maintenance, and that ONLY. The torque converter issue is an issue that affects a small percentage of what was produced.. it is not a wide issue. The egr costs jack to do away with. That is an american emissions standards problem, NOT a chrysler issue.. they had to in order to sell it here. Back to torque converter. It was changed to meet the detuned 2.8,...again, a result of american emissions standards. Timing is most definitely neglect. And, the lifted and locked kj now has 40k problem free miles. Plow one, 20k problem free. The crd that I repaired (because of egr failure taking out rockers due to american emissions destroying it) has 25k miles now, with no issues...egr delete, gde tune. They are not as big of a problem as you think. The "info" you have for every single issue you have brought up in this thread is flat out circumstantial....and all of it is circumstance in which you have no PERSONAL experience. Go suck an egg, dick.