JeepcoMJ

...looks and facts are different things :P it had mice in it..the carpet is junk and the interior smells. seats are still good except for the foam has been eaten away on the underside...not too bad tho. other than that it's pretty darn good...the front fenders are fiberglass, and the right one has a square sorta crack in it where it SHOULD have a vent...figure the person who put the fenders on didn't want the vent? but other than that, it's fricken great!

it ran last year, it will run with little to no problems. the glass WAS intact...but the passenger door window cracked while pressure washing (not sure how). still that one's no big deal, it wasn't anything big or strangely shaped :D like i said tho we're prolly just cleanin her up for our friend bill and at least i get to drive it for a week :D

i should still have it, and it would be 40 bucks plus shipping...

like the title says and MAN! does it smell bad! yuck! we're cleaning/restoring it for a family friend. good news is i get to drive it for a week while i put the new dana 30 in the front of my mj (my front axle is bent on the left side...and rattling)

yea it's on ebay now. i didn't even clean it...if i get 70 bucks plus they pay shipping i don't really care.

i'll put a tube inside them, and weld them up real good :D

and look how rust free it is! it's just too bad...even the rear axle got bent from that...

no one was in it. it was parked. but yea...

yea...way i figure it that makes them stronger. plus if i cut them in half i can lenthen them out

really f*d up

one dirty one just went for $305 on ebay. i'm going with ebay :D

so if they're boxed...they'd be easier and stronger to cut apart and lengthen or shorten as needed correct? maybe i'll get me a pair for my wheeling truck?

do wj lca's offer lift? if so how much?

the new one is only 60 bucks....not too shabby. they're worth it and that specific one is GREAT!!

the renix computer wouldn't run the 97+ motor...you would need the harness for that. plus you would have to use the older style sensors because the new sensors are a positive ground (from my understanding) via the computer. so gauges wouldn't work. everything could be made to work, but at the very least you would need the 97+ motor, all the connectors for the sensors, and all your old sensors. the computer needs some of the newer sensors to operate correctly, however you can double up on sensors...i had to do that on my comanche with the 3.8 motor. it wasn't too bad to run the motor seperate of the truck harness. i could actually burn out my cab and it's wiring, and still drive the truck home at the moment, provided it didn't wreck any of the steering or brakes/clutch etc.

pong, is that thing street legal?

ah. but if you were driving straight then on dry pavement with command trac, binding on turns wouldn't be a problem would it? i have command trac but i will be using a selec-trac vacuum switch to actuate my CAD, as I have one that fits in my center console. I would like a selec-trac model in my dd but i'm not gonna spend the $$ on it...i only use my 4wd when driving in extremely slippery conditions like ice, snow, rain, and mud. it doesn't see use when dry cause i don't need it :D

i don't see why command trac wouldn't work on dry pavement...that makes no sense to me. is it cause the tires have no slip-ability? personally i think 4wd is about NOT slipping.

dakal i've removed all of mine. but i do have some sort of cherokee valve thingy up front. not sure what it does. my dad put it on when he was originally working on the truck, before we decided it was mine. but it works fine with no valve, and i'm sure there's an aftermarket adjustable one out there somewhere.

thanks guys...looks like it's time to ebay it

i hooked up my selec-trac switch to a vacuum source today. then hooked it to my spare CAD to see how it worked. it's ingenious! worked like a charm and once i figured out which line should be 2wd and which should be 4wd, it worked great! so i'll be installing that permanently onto my manche. it will give me an extra advantage and also the ability to handle corners without sacraficing all of my front end and no wheel hop :D ...i hope.

alright, so maybe this has been covered before... selec-trac is? and command trac is? i'm under the impression that selec-trac has the little vacuum switch to flip into 4 wheel...but that it's not as strong of a system. what is the vacuum switch for seeing as they are non CAD axles with this system? and then command trac is a simple tcase that operates the driveshafts with a simple shift of 1 lever while sending vacuum to the CAD? what are the advantages and disadvantages of these systems?

I have a new process 231 transfer case left over from the tranny swap on my xj...it's in really good shape. i'm wondering what it's worth? it is 23 spline i'm fairly sure...from a 1995 aw4 tranny and it is a 272 ratio. anyone have an idea? or an offer?

no c clip. i seem to have solved the problem...i figured friction in the switch may clean the contacts. so i disconnected the battery, turned the key to on, and shifted the heck outta it...moving the cross-shaft and thus rubbing all the contacts in the switch together. it worked. now it only sometimes has a no-start issue in park, and it ALWAYS starts in neutral. no backup lights though. so yes i do need to put a new switch on, i KNOW i can't get this one off without wrecking it. so off to the junkyard...cause i don't have $230. but it's sold for $2500 tomorrow. my friend Ryan is buying it...paying cash. then i'm undercoating it for him and putting the orig. blackout rims back on it cause we want the ones on it now. picks it up saturday and after that point...it's not my problem. :D so thanks for your help everyone!

question; do you really even need the proportioning valve? i've removed them on every comanche i own and they work like a charm for hauling stuff still.