JeepcoMJ

haha. yep, 10 minutes scraping, 20 minutes blasting, 15 min. painting, 10 min. sanding. end result.

I agree with geonovast. here's a link to my tranny rebuild. there's probably more pics in the folder than just for the tranny, but feel free to look around. you will need a press to remove the bearing. any questions, please ask. i'd type more but just got off 10 hours of work :(

I are pete, :cheers: (when are we gonna finally meet?!...and wheel!)

oh, what'd you do with the box? planning on using it, or selling it?

very nice project so far. I'll admit, I'm glad as hell that your first suspension hit the road...it was completely unsafe, or at least completely unfinished especially when utilizing stock UCA's for the longarms. good project, keep it up. and...the last post with pics the links don't work :redX:

you may want to fill in the wheel wells in the back...they are structural as it is a unibody, so leaving them open like that is probably not the best thing you could do...

updated the list again. MOJOMJ is my brother steve...he should be with, but is just starting a new job welding mining equipment, so his job could easily take that weekend from him. I hope to have beaterjeep riding shotgun with me. perhaps geonovast will make it?

I'm basically good to go. see you all there! :D

no. on that style of 2wd front beam, there are no dust covers. bookspan, get the rim off a.s.a.p. and either widen out that hole, or replace the rims...those aren't setting flush on your hub, and will wobble off and definitely cause HUGE issues.

lol...i don't think he built it with cornering in mind. nevertheless, the COG does look to be a bit high...i'd say some larger tires would look good and maybe even take care of that problem if backspaced out further.

I will measure the different housings by the end of the week. you have to take off the transfercase to do it...and i will measure the input shafts on t-cases to give you an idea.

nope. np207 t-case, if it's selec-trac it's a np228 or np229. the np231 t-case was introduced on cherokees later on, either at the very end of the comanche run or directly afterward. The NP231 was introduced during the 1987 model year. And the OP's signature line specifically says he has a 231. Even if he's replacing a 207, a 21-spline 231 is a bolt-in conversion. yes, it was introduced in that year, but not in a vehicle equipped with an ax-5. I've not once seen an np231 on any ax-5 equipped MJ/XJ's that have come here and been stripped, built, or sold off...that's oh, 15 so far, 3 of which had AX5's, one of which had an AX4, and of those 5, there was only one 2wd, and only one AX5-equipped cherokee (1994) had an np231. it also had larger bearings in the tranny. regardless, he doesn't need a transfercase to replace the transmission...what's there is what he needs to use. oh, i should note that the output housing can have two different output seal depths...one is to accomodate for a short t-case input shaft (it works with long and short 21 spline inputs), one is for LONG input shaft ONLY.

nope. np207 t-case, if it's selec-trac it's a np228 or np229. the np231 t-case was introduced on cherokees later on, either at the very end of the comanche run or directly afterward. sorry. the output shaft is around 7" longer than the 4wd driveshaft. there are no jeep cherokee/comanche trannies that you can simply swap out output housings on to make into 4wd. they either require a tear-down and swap of necessary parts, or replace the tranny altogether. subsequently though, your gears and synchros are the same as his, and so he could use your parts to rebuild his transmission depending on the time frame, I can build you a fresh one. would have to figure out price on a rebuild kit for it, time involved, and tranny to be rebuilt. I've got two trannies apart right now and could build a great one without a rebuild kit and only a few bearings atm, but i'm sure since it's your bosses money and i'd have the case completely apart anyways, he'd want a fresh rebuilt transmission. i wouldn't be able to have it ready until mid october, if not towards the end of october...currently my only day off is saturday, which is all screwed up from working 3rd shift anyways. :cheers:

i was gonna say Orca...you definitely need a bigger tank. that quantity should be a 40 gallon, which would allow you ZERO more fish with the size your current ones will grow. I used to keep cichlids, but I like to have many small fish, in a small environment, rather than a few fish in a HUGE friggin tank. I'll get some pics of mine up soon...the anemones have bred twice now (this is very uncommon) and I now have 12 anemones in the tank, ranging from barely visible to the size of a quarter (the original anemones died off during transport during a move from my apartment)

badger, not to get into a pissing contest, but the frames are the same width up to the middle of where the seats are on the cherokee. so, if you get a longer section of MJ frame (i.e. from back of cab to where LCA's mount), you can mate those together with little difficulty. the trans humps are the same up to the point you picture...towards the back, the MJ has a larger driveshaft hump than the cherokee. the floor pans are different, and yes the roof line is different, BUT one nice thing (as i'm sure you found out badger) is that the body lines will match up, and the drip rails line up... you don't need to build new frame rails or anything, but it's heavily advised...if you're this in-depth already may as well beef it up. my viewpoints on the frame rails are pretty much for someone who wants to make it look as stock as possible underneath. I'd still do it my way, but plate the frame up. also, my way will require more floor work...which may or may not be your idea of fun.[/i]

wahoo, you're probably right. orca, I basically don't want someone to get halfway through cutting up the cherokee and comanche to realize that you need to cut the MJ's frame rails up where the control arms mount, and the xj's frame rails where right behind the driver's seat. then the roof should be cut right behind the rear doors on the xj, and right in front of the door jamb on the MJ, and everything should be plated and sleeved on the frame rails when it's put together. ...i've definitely considered this project, and have bailed on it several times because i don't have the time to commit to it just yet. sorry if i seemed too serious. just want to pass along accurate info and save someone a headache.

ok. here's proof Wade. guess the truck you got your axles out of did have factory dana 44... my guess, the comanche dana 44's were overstock and needed to be used up by the end of the production run on comanches, which was inevitable by 1991 due to low sales. betting it's not a dealer install option... nice, nice truck btw :D :popcorn: :cheers:

man, that thing is a beauty...please don't thrash her too much

your ebrake broke? we'd need specifics on what it's doing, as there are a few different ways that it can break... but, basically you have 3 cables. one comes from the ebrake pedal, the pedal or the first cable could have snapped but not likely. then the first cable from the cab goes to a bracket in the center of the truck above the driveshaft, and joins with the other two cables with an adjuster/splicer piece, and sends one cable to each drum. these commonly rust out, and yes you can get a hold of them through the dealer I believe. if not, just use cherokee e-brake cables and lift it :D

just put Sylvania Performance sealed beam headlights in my truck...they're $20 each, and come out with white light rather than yellow-ish. stock wiring, and still a WORLD of improvement

headlight burned out, so i upgraded to Sylvania performance sealed beams...the light is brigher, whiter, and makes me all warm and fuzzy inside. more upgrades next weekend :D

$250 for a new crank with new main and rod bearings. i'm thinking of just getting her back to running shape, finishing the floor work, and finishing the cab corners, then letting my dad drive it until his truck is done...his truck won't make it another couple months without the renault 2.1 blowing in it.

no offense ORCA, but please don't offer that kind of advice. as Pete said, do you understand sheetmetal and unibody (uniframe) construction? there is no frame under these vehicles, and so everything is structural. so, if you do decide to build it into a 4dr xj, you will need precise measurements, and proper reinforcement to make it work without screwing it up and putting a vehicle on the road that is not safe for driver much less passerby.

no offense Eagle, but have you had to deal with insurance companies very much? I've got the EXACT SAME damage for the most part, worse even, and can't get a dime out of them even though facts show the other guy is at fault. he was even issued a ticket. wtf? i say he's lucky to have gotten anything so quickly.

sure wade, give me a buzz or msn me