JeepcoMJ

dude, don't cut up the B-pillar trim to fit crappy stock speakers in. find some decent ones, or go without until you can get them, or get some 4x6's and have someone from here send you mounts for them.

the first one I wouldn't buy from...the sell scout parts and I wouldn't trust their judgement or parts if the website says scout, but they're selling comanche lifts. the second one, I wouldn't do either, because it's more expensive than just ordering straight from Rough Country. roughcountry.com

most likely ALL OF US will tell you to run away from Rusty's. they have poor customer service, lots of parts failure, and poor quality lifts in general. strike them from your list, and go to Rough Country, RE, M-O, OME, or something along those lines. but DO NOT buy Rusty's. you will regret it.

base likely did not have it. as many have said before though, it's AMC/Jeep...there is no rule set in stone. let's just say that, like as not, there are less jeeps which came with the rear speakers than those which do. I don't remember the size...it is an odd size. 4x3 or some wierd thing like that. watt is whatever $#!&ty stock wattage would be....i toss all factory speakers, regardless of the vehicle or brand.

the wiring is tied up to the pillar wires which lead to the dome lights, and the mounts are found few and far between.

well, i guess that is what I'm gonna do for now...and when I get a chance I'll build a spare sending unit with a H.O. pump. only problem I have is 24 lb injectors...idk if that will pose a problem to the pump or not.

good news; you don't have to swap the interior wiring to do this conversion. bad news; you DO still have to rip out the dash and hvac so you can get the TCU wiring inside the cab. you need the engine bay harness (the engine harness itself connects to the main engine bay harness, and can remain as-is). to swap that harness, you still have to pull the entire front clip off of the vehicle, or at least the bumper, to route everything back through. then you just need the flexplate, trans, torque converter, front and rear driveshafts (yes, BOTH are different), shifter linkages, trans computer, and a bit of time. it's a swap that you could do in a weekend I would say.

still haven't gotten the wiring done, alldata doesn't show those connecters :mad: . anyways, went to swap the pump today and see that the H.O. pump is HALF the size of the renix pump, and there is no possible way to swap the MJ boot onto it, much less mount it. wtf did you guys who did the swap do? -Pat

anyone who tells you that dana 35's only had rubber plugs hasn't had enough jeeps apart yet, or has read about the subject from someone else who is flat out wrong anyways. non c-clip dana 35's should all have metal plugs, and I'm sure some of the early c-clip ones do as well. rubber drain plugs came somewhere around 1990. yes, you do have a dana 35. I'm sorry to bear the bad news :ack:

you couldn't pay me to trust the way that thing is mounted. period. as far as mounts go, if you have an angle grinder with cutting wheel, you can alter your factory mounts to work with that setup. a welder could weld everything up for cheap. i guarantee you wouldn't spend more than $100 on the whole deal, and you'd probably get someone local from the club here or another jeep club to weld it up for as little as a case of beer.

bet you're excited for the lift :D and yup. we had a bet junior with some wrestlers and football guys at my school that they would come out for swimming, and we'd try out football or wrestling. needless to say they lasted a few days, we didn't like groping other men, and we can't throw or catch :clapping: :popcorn:

some family fun, a chance to put the tilt column in my dad's diesel finally, and a reprieve from work. :cheers: lol, everyone in my family has been at work, at school, or both, and when we're not, we're doing whatever needs to be done around the house (mid-restore on a house built in 1870's). so, we haven't gotten to go shopping yet...we're exchanging gifts on saturday after we all have the chance and my sister is home. basically though, we're all pretty much looking at cash-gifts. gift cards aren't guaranteed...not with bankrupcy prevailing everywhere, and we've no need of anything unnecessary. so, we all kind of figure that some $$$ to each other will help us get necessities. I did just start cooking a nice rump roast as well as some corned beef with potatoes, and am gonna go get my favourite started...mmm potatoes aue gratin.

sweet! I'm glad to see someone else here is a swimmer...I was at state sophomore through junior year for the 200 medley relay and 200 free relays, pushing 22.9 50's as the starter and a 27.2 as breast, had it bagged senior year for 100 breast and 100 back but my co-captain and I got in a disagreement 3 days before sectionals, and as I was walking away he let me have it...right in the back of the neck (to be honest, he and I both deserved a good punch or two...just not that way). oh well...6 weeks later (after my "coined" no-swimming taper :D) at u.s.s. state for club, absolutely blew the doors off the qual. times with a 59.9 100 breast and 2.58 200 I'm. i love the sport, it's the greatest way to get the most excercise IMHO. what year are you in h.s.? lift goin on eh? :cheers:

don't bother...buy some perches and have them welded on at the proper angle. it's cheaper, and better.

NICE MJ! I gotta say though, the rims...they are too much for a white vehicle. if it was a dark colour, I would say sweet $#!&. any way to add some black to them?

swimmer eh? still in h.s. or in college? I was (am) a swimmer to this day...manage around 10k yards a week on a bad week, but prefer to hit around 20 if i can. can't wait to go back to college for it...6 more semesters of eligibility :brows: what's your stroke? as for your jeep issues...definitely check as listed above. also take the cap off the distributor, and be sure it's not wet in there for safe measure. check all spark plug connections, and definitely check your coil connections. also, idk what year your truck is (forgotten already...) but check the ballast resistor. if it's deteriorated, the spring could be getting too hot and shorting it out. that's a common problem.

ah. my 87 did have a ballast resistor when I got it...though I also found the factory bypass wire for it too.

it seriously cannot be the fuel pump this many times :nuts: . how's your fuel pump regulator, or your ballast resistor, fuel pump relay, or fuse?

ouch. that must have hurt...hopefully it heals quick. now go as for me, I... installed dash wiring, dash, steering column, borla downpipe, cruise control servo, all dash accessories, and the electric speedo harness and sensor with the proper gear for my gearset/tire combo. just have to mount the rad fan, shroud, e-fan, intake filter, some vac. lines, coolant reservoir and tube, dizzy, cap, rotors, plugs, floor-shifter cable and brackets, swap from renix to H.O. fuel pump, and convert the wiring from xj to mj for the tail lights and fuel pump. done by sunday I should think.

oh no, not at all. if I hadn't already converted the headlight wiring over to H.O. wiring, it sure woulda been (you CANNOT remove the front clip without taking off the bumper). but as is, I've got a nice place to put all my tools, a great place to stand while doing work at the back of the engine bay. the hoist works just fine for this, it's long enough. I love that front bumper...it's taken it's fair share of roadkill.

old motor is out, new one in, engine bay almost completely done, interior half done. pics are here: a few of the pics to post up. piles of parts removal/install - M.O.R.E. motor mounts having issues with the 95 steering column bolting up...it's dispraportionate. oh well, it will work somehow. progress :D

of course, this depends greatly on your ability to open the hood without getting inside the vehicle... :popcorn: :dunno:

technically yesterday, but I got my 95 reman engine in the comanche, with everything but the dizzy and spark plugs mounted, and then got all the 95 engine bay wiring and accessories installed, removed the dash, removed old wiring and computers, removed old heater box, removed firewall insulation, installed new firewall insulation, and installed new heater box. then scratched my head a bit on what to do about the steering column differences...because I can't very well install the old column with the new wiring, so the new column MUST go in...

oh, I agree it's something different...I'm just saying that the people who say AMC motors get bad mileage have built them for hp and torque, not mileage. a factory 360 in great running condition will get good mileage so long as you're light on it. a 318 will be interesting, but I'm no fan of chrysler products. I wish chryco never bought jeep matter of fact.

amc motors are a bit expensive to put together, but they don't break hardly ever. and I think you're misleading yourself and giving in to a bunch of idiots with lead foots; the amc 360 is capable of 23mpg highway EASY. all you have to do is do a mild build, and keep a light foot. I guarantee you that that is fact...my dad used to drive FSJ pickups exclusively, and he was getting between 17mpg and 23mpg with them depending on how he drove. that's the same as our trucks get now, for a huge amount of power. idk why you're hellbent on a v8 either...I put a mildly built 3.8 camaro v6 in my 86 mj and get between 19 and 29 mpg with it depending on how hard (or nice) I drive it, and I can haul away from any v6 camaro, any basic 4.0, and I blew the damned doors off of my friend's rotary RX-7, leaving him to eat fumes (and he's a professional racer) I say look for better options. the SBC is the only "bolt-in" setup, other than that, you get to fab.