JeepcoMJ

they're a really sweet motor. the only reason I would use a S/C block is the core material is more dense due to a higher nickel content. my block is just fine though, it's just the crank and oil pump that I consider junk.

the 3800 cost me $1800 to have payed. here's how it looked day after paint after I re-assembled it. I did NOT get my money's worth... two years later (2007) I was mad because the cab corners were rusting through (jackass left sandpaper and such in the cab corners, plugging the drains). 4 years later (2009) I am doing EVERYTHING i CAN to get the guy shut down. I made a replacement panel for this part for the inner and outer portions of the wheel well, and all he had to do was cut, weld, and smooth. I find that he resorted to BONDO and fiberglass. royally pissed. I will NEVER pay for a paint job again...at least I won't pay for it if it includes body work. just a suggestion to do the body work yourself. that way you know what you're looking at years down the road.

I used a vacuum toggle switch from a semi tractor that I got at work, some plastic flexible line, some rubber fittings, and a spare vacuum canister to do my vacuum switch. it works great, but you can only engage it at low speeds or it binds up...it gets HEAVY vacuum. just tee it into the vacuum canister supply, and add a second vac. cannister (if you want...it's not necessary), supply to switch, supply two hoses to disconnect and one vent hose to disconnect) I've since relocated it to between the center armrest and the shifter as my transmission temp gauge is now in that location from the motor swap. a factory selec-trac switch from a mid 80's xj or mj works great too. basically any vacuum switch with a vacuum in, switch of some sort, and two vacuum outputs will do wonders. (such as the one below...which is normally located in the small ash tray spot behind the shifter on the center console)

I already built the truck with a 1996 3800 series two. I'm not using an SC block for precisely that reason. I have an eaton m90 supercharger for future mods. the 3800 in this truck got me up to 29mpg interstate, and the lowest I ever got was 18mpg though driven nicely it averaged 24mpg city. trust me, i know this engine EXTREMELY well. already had it apart once, on the second shot already due to something getting in a main bearing from the oil sump. on a side note, the @#$%er at alpha auto in green bay neglected to tell me (until I was standing at his office 3 hours away) that they crushed the OEM bedside months ago.

those IR remotes are just about worthless. yeah, you have to have it pointed directly at the reciever. kinda sucks. but hey, the cherokee had that option, and so now my comanche will too.

ax5 5 speed and np231 from a 90's xj if you do that make sure your 3.4 comes from a camaro with a 5 speed. if you go auto make sure it's from a camaro with an auto. also look at firebirds. you're looking for 1991-1995 camaros

isn't the timing different between the renix and H.O.??? if that's the case...then how is the renix computer making up for the difference? I don't know if I'm right either so don't $#!& a brick lol

yep bubble is for keyless. I'm actually modding a 95 OHC to go into my wheeling truck with the rest of the 95 junk. it has the temp, directional, and keyless reciever in it. and yes you can get FOB's...go on ebay or buy one from the dealer. there are instructions somewhere on the net for programming.

Why not? because cherokee power seat mounts are about 4.5" shorter than normal, which means they're around that much shorter than MJ mounts. the difference is made up with the electric motor assembly...it makes up that 4.5". so, to use the MJ brackets, you'd end up with your head coming out of the roof.

custom fab seat brackets. not hard to do, but you won't be able to use the MJ brackets at all with it.

my 86 has 79k miles on it, it's gonna be on it's 4th motor (two 2.8 liters before I owned it, one buick 3800 now rebuilding), 5th transmission, 3rd front axle, and it's on it's 5th rear axle. my front axle is bent...was that way when cionverted to 4wd but it's getting worse the engine sucked something into the oil pump which got on a main bearing and wrecked the crank the 3800 eats dana 35's for breakfast and is now on a dana 44 the ax5's last between 700 and 2000 miles behind the 3800, so it's time for an ax15 my 87 MJ had 160 or 170k on it when I got it, the motor didn't last 2000 miles. it was 2wd so it's now 4wd on it's second front axle had a dana 44 which is now in the other truck, but now has a 44 with 4.10 gears to match the front 1st t-case in it (SYE np231) second trans (soon to be 3rd) aw4 to convert from 2wd to 4wd second motor mildly built powerhouse 1995 H.O. and wiring. I've put 4000 miles on that truck so far. other vehicles have lasted longer, but they were all fixer-uppers that I got cheap fixed then sold to support my habit.

So if I grab the harness from the donor, its the windows/locks in one harness? Is the empty connector plugged in under the dash or in the kick panels somewhere? it's an additional harness that runs across under the carpet. it has connectors at both ends and one pin that clips into the fuse panel. pretty easy to remove, you will have to cut the rear wiring out to do it.

My brother Steve (MOJOMJ) just picked this up last week... 1989 jeep cherokee, 5.5" lift 4.5" coils 1" spacers some sort of aftermarket springs and shackles, and we believe it is all RE parts. np242 with SYE, RE quicker disconnects or something of that sort, aftermarket front and rear bumpers with swingout (rear is home made bumper for sure) front reese class 3 (GREAT for parking trailers) NICE leather grey interior all power EVERYTHING cruise etc. cd player and 3 drawer pullout drawers in the back. very nice imho EDIT: pics when I get up to my computer in the house EDIT: pics worked with picturetrail trail box: jeep skid plate: SYE, YES that is an np242 with proper SYE trackbar: leather interior...no cracks/tears/rips forgot to mention... functioning safari snorkel dana turdy-5 but with locker of some sort front diff skid

and for suspension...it's getting everything from the 87 installed in it. won't be able to use any of the 87 parts with 4-link rear and longarm front anyways.

Pat, You sound like me before the heart attack!! My wide always warned me to calm down or I would blow a gagket... DAMN... I just realized, that means she was right AGAIN!!! Sit back and have a beer and look things over... CALM, its better for your heart!!. Anyhow, I changed the oil on the MJ today. Didn't realize I was out of WIX filters and was stuck... I just fired up the TJ and took her for a spin!! Its been three months since she was started!!! SO, I got the parts and she got a quick wash!!! Got home and finished the oil change and all is well again!! CW lol. I'm sure it doesn't help that I smoke cigars. I do have a doctor's appointment this week...I've been having chest pains and anxiety attacks lately. not good. working way too hard. probably the reason I have no ambition lately. the last real mod to the MJ (power interior/woodgrain) was last weekend. today I hope to get off my @$$ and remove the rear bumper and maybe get the headliner and OHC in or started.

copy the link paste the link. double click the link so it's highlited click "Img" it will enclose the brackets around it for you. or if you are using a site which gives you a link for the "IMG" already, such as photobucket...simply copy that link and paste it. remember to press enter after every link so that they end up on top of each other not side by side.

well, the engine parts are on their way. new crankshaft, piston rings wrist pins and clips oil pump water pump full gasket set timing set performance cam on warantee...it has one in it with flat lobes on number two and three lifters. I'll be rebuilding this engine by the end of the month. tomorrow I'm picking up an OEM driver's side bedside for $60. it has 2 hours of work on it and only needs a small dent popped out. complete inner and outer bedside.

the one your talking about probably had a small black bubble on it. if that's the case, it's the factory keyless entry module and reciever. if not then it had a sunroof and had a shorty OHC with a display on it for temperatures etc. but I'm betting it's the prior one not the latter.

fixed :thumbsup: nice!

yeah but I've got to find all of the rear window wires (they're all just taped up and zip-tied out of my way now) and cap off the ends. I'm gonna make the rear window wires do something. idk what...they'd be good for a power rear window and sunroof *shrug*

Seriously.. :hmm: . Why waste your time with a 2.8 or a 3.4? if your bound and determined to stick with a 90* V-6 :nuts: ..then why not go with the 3.8 Buick Grand National Turbo set up.. 4 barrel carb..plus you can actually stroke that one and know it will last!.. Piss on that whole 2.8l-3.4l crap!! that's as bad as trying to stuff a 305 in a fullsize chevy pickup when you have access to a 350 that could go in it.. :wall: just my .02....good luck that involves custom work. a 3.4 liter being the same block as the 2.8 will bolt on using 2.8 exhaust manifolds and motor mounts and an a/c delete bracket, then minimal wiring necessary to make it run...4 positives, one 55 ohm supply to pin 55 (blue wire) on the ecu from a VATS bypass module, and a couple grounds. I personally would rather go as close to stock in my swaps as possible. I've DONE a buick 3800 swap, and I DID NOT enjoy getting the thing there, finding I had to custom build the clutch throwout plate and modify the bellhousing due to flywheel differences and starter locations, then build custom motor mounts (which required modifying the frame rails), custom exhaust and y-pipe, custom fuel lines, custom header panel to fit a 4.0 radiator in an 86 MJ, custom e-fans, then all the associated wiring (since I removed all unnecessary camaro wires such as lights etc.), then figuring out how to get high enough fuel pressure and which pump to do it with. it was a huge b*@$£ of a project...I'd rather just swap parts that bolt on and not have to fabricate to be honest.

remember, he's got a shortbed...

to log hours means to acquire them, to write down, to punch in for all of said accounted hours.

mine chases any and all tires. he's an australian shepherd/blue heeler mix. I don't care. if he vets run over, it's his fault. we've tried almost anything including behavioral training to get him to stop. it doesn't help, and at this point we're OK with him getting run over if he does. lol, that sounds mean. we usually try and keep him inside when we're gonna leave, but can't always do that.

locks, windows, mirrors, woodgrain installed, cd deck installed. two of the 4 frame mounts for the rear bumper...I gotta pick up the other 4. need to drill 7 more holes on each side. gonna start making the bumper this week i hope. rollbar and my spare aw4