Jump to content

JeepcoMJ

Members
  • Posts

    10257
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by JeepcoMJ

  1. A full set of hanneman bedsides and front fenders shipped is under $1000. That thing has $2000 at list price in tires, rims, suspension. $500 in trans/tcase/clutch, whatever bolt on parts on motor, $500 in bumpers at best, a $#!&ty tailgate, $400 in cheap "racing" seats, and whatever the doors cost. That's $4400 plus paint. That thing cost $6500 at best to build, and the entire suspension is JUNK. Rock krawler makes some horrible stuff. Look at the "long arm" mounts, enough said.
  2. No, 02 were about 3/4" higher in the early half, at which point they had to drop them lower to meet rollover safety standards. From roughly halfway through 02 on, they were shorter in stock form.
  3. There is no lift like a JBA lift, though. Btw, a quality lift for a KJ lift you are going to spend $1300 to $3000 to get into the 3.5" range. Spacer lifts on KJ's are JUNK. So pretty much all 2.5" lifts and clevis lifts....aka if the lift costs under $1000 and doesn't come with new upper a arms, it's trash.
  4. They're nice crossover vehicles.
  5. Sas not worth it, and they drive fine how they are. The sas will completely destroy ride quality, and as it sits a KJ with 3.5" lift and JBA a arms performs equally well as an xj on 32s. Forget about the mess...complete custom engine mounts etc. are necessary for the swap
  6. That doesn't count. Any bumper pull, especially on thin wall tube bumpers (they all are thin), is going to be weak. I have towed KJ, MJ, xj, TJ, and various small cars behind an xj and an MJ. Latest one was a complete 02 KJ behind a 99 2dr 5 speed xj that was stroked and had a 242 on it. It was out of necessity. Had to take the interstate for about 10 miles. To make this work, I could not use 5th gear, I had to be in full time, and I could not go past 55mph. Also slowing down required much downshifting, though the brakes seemed to be working well. No trailer brakes either. But I've also rear ended someone going 2mph in misty conditions coming to a stop using that dolly, a 97 xj, and an MJ with 4.10 and 35" tires. It's all in the conditions on the road, and taking it verrrry slow. Even then, they are still under rated.
  7. The stock cross member is stamped sheetmetal. You are talking about putting all lateral and vertical stress of your front suspension on it. Reinforced or not, it bolts on with only 8 tiny bolts. That is very far from enough.
  8. There are not, it crimps or slides together, and you will need to go to the junkyard. Also, I imagine that they only work with certain year set belts.
  9. Those rims have GOT to go. Nice ride height, nice stance, nice tires.
  10. That is a seatbelt button complete with pivots. It is no cover.
  11. Plastic? Old spade type soldering iron, use it for a plastic welder.
  12. Along those lines, yes. I believe it's more like a dealer decal package But we all know you can't have a comanche frame separated from body, so this is logical
  13. I grew up with fsj pickups...15 since I was born. As far as I know, they were referred to as comanche as early as 1980
  14. FSJ did have a comanche. Just like FSJ cherokee existed.
  15. It's a shame to put all that crap on a diesel
  16. Probably off a fullsize comanche
  17. Also not bolt in
  18. I'm not going to bust balls man, just offering my opinion. You know I want overbuilt for peace of mind. I have overheated 4.0s on fully flushed non clogged systems while towing several times. Actually blew the end cap clear off Steve's MJ once with no load behind it. It is usually people working their engine hard that have the issues.
  19. Knowing that 4.0s have a tendency to overheat, I don't think you could ever get me to put a brand new single core in.
  20. Agree with Rob. I tell you, if someone did that to one of my cars, I would be on trial for murder.
  21. Production date on driver door sticker reading 1986 instead of 1985. And they are not anywhere near bolt in. Fab work and new hood necessary. You have to swap both steel structural inner fenders, with core support, and front crossmember, plus hood. Then the entire engine and chassis wiring harness from front to back, fuel lines to 4.0 lines if you want it done right, and fuel pump/sender/tank.
  22. K. LMK if you need a hand after dealing with bear today
  23. Rob, you sure you need to swap that inner fender? I have fixed worse than that.
  24. Did you port match the renix manifolds and the high output head?
×
×
  • Create New...