Knucklehead97

Hey guys. Kinda looking for a shortbed fuel sending unit that works. You know, the float assembly and all that? Possibly having to change the fuel pump soon and my gas gauge doesnt work so I'd like to kill two birds with one stone if someone has one for the right price. '89 shortbed pioneer.

How did I not see that reply coming lol.

Ill try and ask around. Most shops around here just treat me like a DA and tell me to bring it into their shop so "professionals" can deal with it.

Mine idles at about 400 so its pretty low. It may be connected to both of our problems. And from what I see those Snapon tools are... pricey.

If only bringing it to your house didn't require shipping it to another state lol. Do Dodge Jeep Ram dealers still keep Renix testers handy?

I didn't know there was a way to connect a diagnostic thing to Renix 4.0's? How hard is it to come by a Renix diagnostic box? Because uh... I could use one right about now lol :D

Waiting for the connectors to dry before I crank it. I expect it to still do it though. Any progress on yours? And do you have a low idle like I do? Oh and upon looking in the engine bay I noticed these two electrical connectors with yellow "caps" on them. They're right behind the line of 4 relays. What are these? Just curious.

Will cap them off ASAP. Gonna check in oreillys soon for a new fuel pressure gauge.

Did 3 and 4 today. Did as many connectors as I could find. Also found that a small hole appeared in the side of the black vacuum line going into the firewall (i believe its the one that makes the heater blow through all vents) also found that the yellow line going into the CAD had broken off completely. Either of these effect anything? Fixed the black line as much as I could but don't have any caps for the yellow one. Kinda just wanna cap all the lines going to the CAD considering I want to eliminate it eventually.

MAP would definitely effect it. Have you checked the line to it for leaks? My truck acted like that when I accidentally knocked the line completely off the sensor and didnt notice.

5 was already done and the ohms did not fluctuate or read bad at all. Perfect. 3 and 4 will hopefully be done Monday after work while waiting for Oreillys to get a new fuel gauge.

Carb cleaner. And all I have done is the power distribution center and the grounds. Lost track during this mess. And dadinator... I feel you on the sledgehammer. Hands down the hardest thing to track down so far,

I'm going to mention it to them when I return it tomorrow. And continue searching for a vacuum leak of some sort. I may try resetting my throttle butterfly. Cruiser, you got anything for me to try now? Also gonna keep cleaning connections.

I checked all over where I was working for a vacuum leak. Couldn't find any. And great, thats the only place I could find that had a fuel pressure gauge for rent. I'll check the other Oreillys I guess. I'm stumped on what to check next though.

I let the truck run longer and geez... that idle jiggles the truck once it gets warmed up. And those little backfires are a little worse I think. I hear a light hissing sound which makes me think a vacuum leak, but its new and I think its my belt because the belt whistles sometimes in the cold. I also get exhaust pop frequently when revving. It hasn't stalled out. But then again I haven't cranked it again to test it because it was only stalling after I let it sit a few minutes when warmed up. I'm more worried about this idle honestly because its just so low and rough.

I managed to connect a fuel pressure gauge and test the regulator. And guess what? The system actually holds its pressure for about 30 seconds now. And I think the low pressure is Oreillys giving me a faulty pressure gauge. The gauge constantly leaks fuel through the plastic line, even when I don't hold down the relief button. I'm thinking thats why I'm only getting 26 PSI with vacuum and 34 without. Just can't build up enough pressure while its constantly flowing through the gauge. Or am I wrong and the pressure gauge is supposed to do that? It just makes sebse to me that it shouldn't... But hey! The regulator fixed one thing so far :D progress!

Now that was fancy lol :D

exactly what I was looking for! Thanks! Any chance you have a picture of it? I get the idea but I'd love to see a pic of how its done if its no trouble

I still haven't gotten to rent a fuel gauge and get a vacuum line elbow and start the truck again. My work schedule has been horrible lately. It'd be done if Oreillys renting time wasn't just 2 days... haven't gotten a day where I could rent it, use it, and take it back within the next couple days. I'm hoping and praying to get it done this weekend. I need a garage...

When it comes down to it I'm gonna see what I can manage to rig up. Thanks guys :D

Fuel pressure is supposed to be at 31 with the vacuum line connected and 39 without. Currently working on a fuel pressure problem myself.

On the left of the throttle body theres a vacuum line that goes to a sensor on the firewall. This is the MAP sensor and if the line is cracked, loose, melted, clogged, in ANY way. It will make the vehicle do that stuff. Literally like the most important sensor when it comes down to these things running properly. Mine touched my intake manifold heat shield one time while driving and melted shut. Lets just say I've seen more torque come out of a hotwheels car.

Oh! That makes a lot of sense. I thought I had heard a couple of people had completely bypassed the bracket altogether with washers and all of that. Must of misheard :D Thanks guys!

I've seen a few people talk about getting rid of the fender flare mounting brackets (because of the studs always snapping off) and just using nuts and bolts with some washers to hold them on. But nobody has ever really detailed on how to do this. Is there a write up or anything? Because I'm really interested in doing it but I don't fully understand how.

Thanks :D